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Old 07-30-2008, 09:58 AM   #3031
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Originally Posted by Perez View Post
in 1/8th it was really important to have a little back and forth play on the main shaft to save the second gear. Rich Brown told me that and since then I have been wearing gears normally. Also replace all the bearings. Once, the crank shaft on my motor was bent and well there's nothing you can do!...
Thanks... and ouch about the motor...
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:04 PM   #3032
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Anything in particular your looking for??? Kawahara parts are very hard to come by... Have you tried googling what you want?
I'm looking for optionals or hop ups for V one RRR EVO...but it's ok...I found some parts in google...
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:08 PM   #3033
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http://www.msrproduct.com/vonerrr.htm

thats about the most complete kawahara list i can think of, not that you can get most of them though.
thank you....my friend..
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Old 07-30-2008, 01:53 PM   #3034
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hi guys!does any of you try different belt than the stock?some belts from ebay is saying that are better than the stock.
can i put any from another brand?i am racing my rrr wc in dirty pista and 1 race is 1 belt!can i do something to stop this?
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Old 07-30-2008, 02:54 PM   #3035
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hi guys!does any of you try different belt than the stock?some belts from ebay is saying that are better than the stock.
can i put any from another brand?i am racing my rrr wc in dirty pista and 1 race is 1 belt!can i do something to stop this?


I usually play only with kyosho belts...and standar the SP belts that is much stronger....Now we do something wrong ...?? Maybe it's too tight and is not properly set..
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Old 07-30-2008, 03:04 PM   #3036
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Im trying out the front one that is being sold on eBay... It already has 1 hour main and 5 qualifiers... No sign of wear, but you can already start seeing some fibers on the sides coming out... Im pretty sure if you take well care of these belts will last you more than 1 day... I usually take some scissors or an exacto knife and remove these fibers carefully... Ill let you know when they break.
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Old 07-30-2008, 05:13 PM   #3037
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
hi guys!does any of you try different belt than the stock?some belts from ebay is saying that are better than the stock.
can i put any from another brand?i am racing my rrr wc in dirty pista and 1 race is 1 belt!can i do something to stop this?
The SP belts are more free, the older more rubbery belts will last longer assuming both are set properly which means almost as loose as you can without jumping teeth.
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Old 07-31-2008, 09:07 AM   #3038
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K-492 HG Belt Pulley (18T) anybody have one of these laying around they want to sell? kawahara part!

pm me please (i need this one for the set!)
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Old 07-31-2008, 09:24 AM   #3039
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Im trying out the front one that is being sold on eBay... It already has 1 hour main and 5 qualifiers... No sign of wear, but you can already start seeing some fibers on the sides coming out... Im pretty sure if you take well care of these belts will last you more than 1 day... I usually take some scissors or an exacto knife and remove these fibers carefully... Ill let you know when they break.

Riketsu how long the sp belts last in your car?how you set them?loose or tight?

thanks guys for your help!
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Old 07-31-2008, 02:32 PM   #3040
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Gregory, my belts last a really long time, and i have them on the loosest setting possible. Ive been wondering if it would help to shave down the side of the servo saver so it doesnt rub on the belt. Anyone else try this?
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Old 07-31-2008, 04:33 PM   #3041
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My belts last a long time... I usually set em to the loosest possible as someone said earlier... But I try to watch out so it doesnt skip from being too loose. I always check the tension before racing... I like to stay on the loose side, but remember that extreme loose is also bad... One of the major factors in having a long life is having your car clean... Debris can really mess up a belt no matter what type it is... Hope this helps...
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Old 08-01-2008, 06:59 PM   #3042
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I found this many pages back... Thanks to the one that suggested looking...

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Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.

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Yes , you set both 1st and second tight , they will break in after a run or two. They will last a long time this way also. If you take your motor out , just set the mesh the same way again , it will not have to break in again. I use the Aluminum pinions . They wear which is a good thing when setting your mesh with this method.

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As for changing the gears , the plastic I dont change very often. I ran a set for the whole 2 weeks at the worlds , a southwest series race and now the whole Paris Race this past week. The first gear pinion is the only one that really wears. I ran one for the races above , but put a new one on for the Paris main.

Thanks Rich -The Car was just that easy to drive , it did most of the work.
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:18 AM   #3043
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Correct, that is the way to set your gear mesh. extremely tight, but within reason, spin the gears and they will sound a bit rough but they will spin freely. if you go too far they will stop spinning.

You can also take your 1st spur gear off, set the second gear and then put the first spur gear back on to see if the mesh is the same to ensure that you are at the correct angle. 1 degree off makes a huge difference.
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Old 08-02-2008, 05:35 PM   #3044
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Just realized that I wasted probably $50 (in stripped spurs) in trying to make that noise dissappear... When I first ran the car, I ran it with that noise and never had one problem... But then I wanted to eliminate it cuz it sounded bad... Now ended up here...
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Old 08-04-2008, 05:52 PM   #3045
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If the front upper inner arm mounts are at the top, I have 'lowest' front roll-center, correct?
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