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Old 04-03-2008, 04:01 PM   #2716
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Default A bit disappointed

Just got home from trying my RRR EVO and I am a bit disapointed, I really had poor rear grip at the local track.

Even to the effect that I was thought using a drift car! I tried all types of springs and ended with Serpent reds all round.

I started out with foams but thought they must be faulty as the grip was so poor, then changed to rubbers and it got worse! Basically the back end is so loose as soon as you hit power to accelerate to come out of the corner it just spins out. You need to just have the lightest of touchs on the throttle to keep it from spinning.

Faster sweeping corners seem better but the slower ones are the trouble, tried everything from super soft up to the serpent reds all give poor grip but probably the harder the slightly better.

I dont know what the diff oils are as I have just got the car secondhand the front diff is quite stiff with the rear being easier.

I found that I was running the 23 tooth pulley to give differential and changed that to the 23 to give 1:1 drive and that seems to have sligtly improved it.

I changed back to the foams at the end of the day and it seemed a bit better than first thing but still a bit loose on the back end,

Just to cap it all the last lap as I came around the fast sweeper onto the straight the engine cut abrubtly and the car coasted to a halt.

I have just stripped the engine and have found the Sirio EVO 3 with a smashed conrod! it has broked just above the crankpin and has also taken a lump out of the skirt of the piston.

Well that was my first day with my RRR, sitting here rather fed up now.

I will get another engine tomorrow but please can someone help to change my car from a drift car to a racing car!!!!!

I am wanting to run in the rubber tyre class as most racers in my area are rubber.

Many thanks for your help

Trevor
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Old 04-03-2008, 04:25 PM   #2717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor villa View Post
Just got home from trying my RRR EVO and I am a bit disapointed, I really had poor rear grip at the local track.

Even to the effect that I was thought using a drift car! I tried all types of springs and ended with Serpent reds all round.

I started out with foams but thought they must be faulty as the grip was so poor, then changed to rubbers and it got worse! Basically the back end is so loose as soon as you hit power to accelerate to come out of the corner it just spins out. You need to just have the lightest of touchs on the throttle to keep it from spinning.

Faster sweeping corners seem better but the slower ones are the trouble, tried everything from super soft up to the serpent reds all give poor grip but probably the harder the slightly better.

I dont know what the diff oils are as I have just got the car secondhand the front diff is quite stiff with the rear being easier.

I found that I was running the 23 tooth pulley to give differential and changed that to the 23 to give 1:1 drive and that seems to have sligtly improved it.

I changed back to the foams at the end of the day and it seemed a bit better than first thing but still a bit loose on the back end,

Just to cap it all the last lap as I came around the fast sweeper onto the straight the engine cut abrubtly and the car coasted to a halt.

I have just stripped the engine and have found the Sirio EVO 3 with a smashed conrod! it has broked just above the crankpin and has also taken a lump out of the skirt of the piston.

Well that was my first day with my RRR, sitting here rather fed up now.

I will get another engine tomorrow but please can someone help to change my car from a drift car to a racing car!!!!!

I am wanting to run in the rubber tyre class as most racers in my area are rubber.

Many thanks for your help

Trevor
Trevor What tire shore was you running? that will make world of a difference, may you needed a softer tire.
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:02 PM   #2718
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Trevor What tire shore was you running? that will make world of a difference, may you needed a softer tire.
I wonder how high the rear roll center setting is on the car? May need to re-build the shocks. Could be too much rear droop, bent rear hinge pins, too many spacers under the the outer camber link mount (on top of the rear hub), not enough rear toe-in. He needs to go over the rear of the car and see where everything is.
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:09 PM   #2719
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How much rear toe were you running? Where were the shocks mounted? How were the sway bars set? You got the car second hand, so who knows how it was setup. Strip the car down, and rebuild it so you know what you have.

There are so many things to adjust, springs are just one. As was mentioned, what shore tires were you using?
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:11 PM   #2720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kewdawg View Post
I wonder how high the rear roll center setting is on the car? May need to re-build the shocks. Could be too much rear droop, bent rear hinge pins, too many spacers under the the outer camber link mount (on top of the rear hub), not enough rear toe-in. He needs to go over the rear of the car and see where everything is.
Well..... It could be anyone of these adjustment since he just built his car he probably needs someone to look over his car.
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:04 PM   #2721
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Default hmm

well im not SCOTT FISHER but was the track preped as scott fish said just tear the car down start from scratch is your best bet trust me oh yeah scott too
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:14 PM   #2722
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Default RRR

Wht u should have done and wht u should do is tear the car down and clean and check/lube everything.......2nd put it back together with fresh oils and box stock "setup"......mayb 50000 front diff...30000 rear....thts a good place to strt.....sounds like wht u discribed was more track condition than car....if u were drifting tht means u had alot of tire spin and setup wont fix tht...sounds like u were running on a dirty surface!!..u cnt run a race car on a unprepared surface with foams!!wont work!!try and get to a treated surface and test the car there.......I ran my RRR at Speedworld raceway Sun with the box stock setup and the car was off the hook!!!I ran G4s then NT1......this is by far the most impressive of the 3....the RRR is a bad ascar!!!!


peace be EASY!
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:56 PM   #2723
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Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702 View Post
well im not SCOTT FISHER but was the track preped as scott fish said just tear the car down start from scratch is your best bet trust me oh yeah scott too
You always make me laugh Will.
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Old 04-03-2008, 11:15 PM   #2724
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I am probably the only one that did not know about this, but in case I am wrong I want to let you guys know that Kyosho has the flanged wheel nuts that have the little cuts into them that dig into the plastic wheels. I just found out about these from Kyosho a week ago. These are similar to the ones that Mugen and Serpent have been selling. I just think ours are a bit less money.

Part number 1175. They are $3/pack and there are 10 wheel nuts in the pack.
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Old 04-04-2008, 12:38 PM   #2725
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Great advice from everyone...Im not sure where your from Trevor..but if you are in the states www.kyoshoamerica.com just updated their site and has cool feature....you can look up a sponsored driver in your area for support.
If not just ask any of your locals for additional help with your car...I would have to agree with most on the site so far..being that the car second hand you must tear down to kit form and rebuild... www.kyosho.com for
download manual and exploded view if needed. Also you say traction not that good at your local track ...I would set the car up on the soft side to find some added traction.also www.nitrokb.com has great build tips from alot of the guys on rctech..
hope this helps

Whats up fellas who going to what races....hope to see some of you guys soon at the U.S Open and at the Capitol Classic

Robert Maestrey
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Old 04-04-2008, 12:40 PM   #2726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I am probably the only one that did not know about this, but in case I am wrong I want to let you guys know that Kyosho has the flanged wheel nuts that have the little cuts into them that dig into the plastic wheels. I just found out about these from Kyosho a week ago. These are similar to the ones that Mugen and Serpent have been selling. I just think ours are a bit less money.

Part number 1175. They are $3/pack and there are 10 wheel nuts in the pack.
No your not the only one ...

Thanks for sharing
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Old 04-04-2008, 01:13 PM   #2727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I am probably the only one that did not know about this, but in case I am wrong I want to let you guys know that Kyosho has the flanged wheel nuts that have the little cuts into them that dig into the plastic wheels. I just found out about these from Kyosho a week ago. These are similar to the ones that Mugen and Serpent have been selling. I just think ours are a bit less money.

Part number 1175. They are $3/pack and there are 10 wheel nuts in the pack.
I think your right Scott you were the only 1 lol
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:37 PM   #2728
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Thanks everyone for your info, I have indeed started the strip and rebuild.

Just removed the back diff and hey presto the belt is really stripped. There seemed to be enough friction to drive the wheels whilst I had it on the stand but I guess this was slipping as I was driving! especially when I was nailing it out of the slower corners!

I have seen a few other threads that suggest to reduce the diff oil to 10,000 if you are running a low traction circuit, this I have done. The rest I trying to return to the instruction manual setup.

I have got a new engine, so that is being installed at this moment, a Sirio evo 3. I think I must have run the original to lean and wrecked it. Anyone got any tips on how to tune the engine (the engine is brand new but the instructions are in French, which is not a lot of use to me!)

I am in the UK and after a good week of mild dry weather the forecast for the weekend is SNOW. Supposed to be the start of summer here!

Trevor
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:57 PM   #2729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor villa View Post
Thanks everyone for your info, I have indeed started the strip and rebuild.

Just removed the back diff and hey presto the belt is really stripped. There seemed to be enough friction to drive the wheels whilst I had it on the stand but I guess this was slipping as I was driving! especially when I was nailing it out of the slower corners!

I have seen a few other threads that suggest to reduce the diff oil to 10,000 if you are running a low traction circuit, this I have done. The rest I trying to return to the instruction manual setup.

I have got a new engine, so that is being installed at this moment, a Sirio evo 3. I think I must have run the original to lean and wrecked it. Anyone got any tips on how to tune the engine (the engine is brand new but the instructions are in French, which is not a lot of use to me!)

I am in the UK and after a good week of mild dry weather the forecast for the weekend is SNOW. Supposed to be the start of summer here!

Trevor
I would recommend breaking it in first if its new...www.murnanmodified.com has a nice break in procedure that could help you...get plenty of fuel thru it...
make sure your clutch is properly set..a bad clutch will result in you not being able to correctly tune your motor..hope this helps
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Old 04-04-2008, 04:58 PM   #2730
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I think your right Scott you were the only 1 lol
No he wasnt Mr. Martinez...didnt you see my post above...and dont tell me that you knew about this and never told me anything..lol
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