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Old 06-22-2007, 10:26 PM   #1921
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get a new pipe......
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Old 06-22-2007, 10:29 PM   #1922
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Default gearing?

Guys-

Looking for gearing suggestion. Road course layout about 220x100.

For an idea of the layout check http://leisurehoursraceway.com

For an even better idea http://youtube.com/watch?v=ASyZP1gE5-s

I'm running the Evo WC Team Edition car with a Sirio Evo STI engine currently 16/61 & 21/56.

Any and all help is appreciated
Eric Schutt

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Old 06-22-2007, 10:33 PM   #1923
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i haven't started on my v-one rrr evo. wc team edition kit yet...
damn all these kits needing to get build, in so little time.
i just finished on my tc5, next is a customers kyosho inferno sp2.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:42 PM   #1924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotickc View Post
23 on the front, and 18 on the rear. Ones that came with the kit. Like I said, this is my first ky kit...so I am in a little bit of unfamiliar territory. The belt is the 384...if that helps any.

just an idea to think about, how about using the vz237 (drive belt 387) instead of the 384 to be able to pull the tensioner down to get it away from engine?
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Old 06-23-2007, 03:10 AM   #1925
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Actually, it's doing surprisingly well. Very fast. Since I upgraded a bunch of parts on it (too many to list at the moment ), it runs much, much better than version 1.0.
Woah...Can the newer version of the engine run as good box stock?
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:54 AM   #1926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner View Post
Guys-

Looking for gearing suggestion. Road course layout about 220x100.

For an idea of the layout check http://leisurehoursraceway.com

For an even better idea http://youtube.com/watch?v=ASyZP1gE5-s

I'm running the Evo WC Team Edition car with a Sirio Evo STI engine currently 16/61 & 21/56.

Any and all help is appreciated
Eric Schutt
Try this out
17/22 61/56
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:46 AM   #1927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doki_doki View Post
Woah...Can the newer version of the engine run as good box stock?
What's happening is, they are constantly improving the engine, kind of like Microsoft software. New carb case, new carb inserts, needle holder, button head, piston sleeve, crank case, etc - as well as some completely revised parts, such as the big carb insert, new back plate, etc, etc.

The newest "box stock" version should perform well. You just have to decide if you are going to keep up with all the "update$".

As I understand it, the Kyosho version of the CRF is slightly different than the Team Orion version as well.
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:07 PM   #1928
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Default McMaster Carr

Guys, thought I would share a few handy tools I found this week.

Many U.S. folks that shop for tools, fasteners, and raw materials already know about McMaster Carr. While some locations allow 'cash and carry', I think the are mainly B to B.

I found a handy and inexpensive 5.5mm wrench perfect for adjusting rear camber. It's no SnapOn, but works perfect. Part #7793A36 $5.68

I also found some 'thumb nuts' that are perfect when setting on alignment gauges. Part #90368A200 $1.85 ea

McMaster has always been the best place for consumable hardware like nyloc wheel nuts. A box of 50 M4 nyloc nuts $5.42 Part #94205A230

Eric Schutt
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo-55wrench.jpg   Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo-thumbscrew.jpg  
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:20 PM   #1929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner View Post
Guys-

Looking for gearing suggestion. Road course layout about 220x100.

For an idea of the layout check http://leisurehoursraceway.com

For an even better idea http://youtube.com/watch?v=ASyZP1gE5-s

I'm running the Evo WC Team Edition car with a Sirio Evo STI engine currently 16/61 & 21/56.

Any and all help is appreciated
Eric Schutt
Nice track!

Have you already raced on this track? Where do you think you are slow?

Does it seem like the engine is taking too long to spool up? If so, what % nitro, plug and head clearance are you using? Also, what is your clutch nut set at?
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:32 PM   #1930
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Default Leisure Hours

Yes, I am lucky to say this is my local track. It is brand new and located south west of Chicago. Those pics and video are slightly dated, as they continue to finish of the track with infield barriers, corner dots and the like.

The car really feels sorted, but as mentioned the track is new. The overall traction is only 'medium' so far. I know traction will go up, and I'll tune the chassis accordingly.

Right now, it seems like the car should have more rip out of the turns. It also feels like it could pull more on that epic back straight. Feels like I might not have a low enough 1st gear, and also too short of a 2nd gear for the straight.

I'm still learning the ropes on this car, so someone help me. Can I keep the same 1st gear and tweak on 2nd?

I bet my 1st gear choice could be ok, but need to get the clutch to work a bit more for me (tighten the clutch nut). Sorry, but I don't have a measurement, as I have been tweaking it without pulling it apart.

I'm running Byrons 30%
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:45 PM   #1931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner View Post
Yes, I am lucky to say this is my local track. It is brand new and located south west of Chicago. Those pics and video are slightly dated, as they continue to finish of the track with infield barriers, corner dots and the like.

The car really feels sorted, but as mentioned the track is new. The overall traction is only 'medium' so far. I know traction will go up, and I'll tune the chassis accordingly.

Right now, it seems like the car should have more rip out of the turns. It also feels like it could pull more on that epic back straight. Feels like I might not have a low enough 1st gear, and also too short of a 2nd gear for the straight.

I'm still learning the ropes on this car, so someone help me. Can I keep the same 1st gear and tweak on 2nd?

I bet my 1st gear choice could be ok, but need to get the clutch to work a bit more for me (tighten the clutch nut). Sorry, but I don't have a measurement, as I have been tweaking it without pulling it apart.

I'm running Byrons 30%
The track you are running at is big, I suggest this gearing 17/60 for the first and 23/55 for your second, by the way how long is the straight away?
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Old 06-23-2007, 12:50 PM   #1932
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Default big...

Well, the track calls it 220x75x125. Basically, it's not an even rectangle. So, I figure that's the paved lot size, so run line has to be 200ish.

The interesting thing, 1:10 hot TC's are only 1 second off 1:8 lap times
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:11 PM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
What's happening is, they are constantly improving the engine, kind of like Microsoft software. New carb case, new carb inserts, needle holder, button head, piston sleeve, crank case, etc - as well as some completely revised parts, such as the big carb insert, new back plate, etc, etc.

The newest "box stock" version should perform well. You just have to decide if you are going to keep up with all the "update$".

As I understand it, the Kyosho version of the CRF is slightly different than the Team Orion version as well.
Hmm... that's quite a tough decision to make. Upgrading an engine can be costly...$$$ I am more willing to invest in upgrading the kit compared to the engine...
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Old 06-23-2007, 04:16 PM   #1934
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Hey, do any of you guys use the mugen starterbox?
If you do...any way you could snap a pic so I know where to put the pegs, or to get a close idea.
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Old 06-23-2007, 08:40 PM   #1935
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Default gear selection rules

Quote:
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner View Post
I'm still learning the ropes on this car, so someone help me. Can I keep the same 1st gear and tweak on 2nd?
So my last TC was a NTC3, and there were only certain gear combinations you could run. There was some fudge factor, but only a little.

I read a fair amount of people stripping gears with this car, so it doesn't sound like I want to 'color outside the lines'.

Is there a 'rule' or formula to determine what gear options can be run?

regards-
Eric
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