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Old 05-09-2007, 08:39 AM   #1741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twiggy
make sure you don't change the screws that go into the chassis to titanium.
Are you having problems with Ti screws in the chassis? I've been running them, trouble-free, for over a year now.
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:30 PM   #1742
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Kyosho V ONE RRR Evo. news

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...45#post3286645
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:30 PM   #1743
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From what I understand. Ti and metal (steel?) tend to form a chemical bond (weld) or so I've heard.

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Old 05-13-2007, 10:13 PM   #1744
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Exclamation OS .12 TZ (P) 3Port

I'm about 95% done assembling my EVO WCE. Only problem to make it fully assembled is, I can't seem to find a place where I can purchase the OS .12 TZ (P) 3Port #OS 11373 for under $200 with S/H included.....

RC-Toro was the only store that sold them for $185-$189...but currently they don't have it listed anymore on their website.

Does anybody know where I can get the engine for around the same price or slightly higher like between $200-$210 with S/H included?

Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:20 PM   #1745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
I'm about 95% done assembling my EVO WCE. Only problem to make it fully assembled is, I can't seem to find a place where I can purchase the OS .12 TZ (P) 3Port #OS 11373 for under $200 with S/H included.....

RC-Toro was the only store that sold them for $185-$189...but currently they don't have it listed anymore on their website.

Does anybody know where I can get the engine for around the same price or slightly higher like between $200-$210 with S/H included?

Thanks for the help.
check out rc-mushroom.com
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:56 PM   #1746
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Default vzw204

guys...does anyone have photos on the their mods done on the vzw204 (rear stabilizers) clearing the rear belt? thanks
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:11 PM   #1747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theCROSS
guys...does anyone have photos on the their mods done on the vzw204 (rear stabilizers) clearing the rear belt? thanks

You can do one of two things. Either lengthen the link (use longer ball cups) or grind a small amount of the aluminum that would rub on the rear belt.
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:17 PM   #1748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRRobiso
I'm about 95% done assembling my EVO WCE. Only problem to make it fully assembled is, I can't seem to find a place where I can purchase the OS .12 TZ (P) 3Port #OS 11373 for under $200 with S/H included.....

RC-Toro was the only store that sold them for $185-$189...but currently they don't have it listed anymore on their website.

Does anybody know where I can get the engine for around the same price or slightly higher like between $200-$210 with S/H included?

Thanks for the help.

You can get pretty close from Tower Hobbies. The engine is $230 plus shipping, but right now there is a coupon code on their home page for a $25 discount. That will get you down to $205 plus shipping.
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Old 05-13-2007, 11:29 PM   #1749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
You can do one of two things. Either lengthen the link (use longer ball cups) or grind a small amount of the aluminum that would rub on the rear belt.
For some reason when I used the rear evo sway bar on my rrr wce it rubbed the belt, but this week I got the evo wc and used the long ball cups and they are not rubbing at all, but getting back to the my wce "rmdhawaii" showed me this picture of the kawahara sway bar for the rrr wce and that is what I did to solve the problem:
http://rctech.net/forum/showpost.php...postcount=9009
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo-sway-bar.jpg  

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Old 05-14-2007, 12:53 AM   #1750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
You can do one of two things. Either lengthen the link (use longer ball cups) or grind a small amount of the aluminum that would rub on the rear belt.
i'll try the longer ball cups... thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX4-R03
For some reason when I used the rear evo sway bar on my rrr wce it rubbed the belt, but this week I got the evo wc and used the long ball cups and they are not rubbing at all
any guess on why that could be so? am trying the swaybar on my wce with the evo conversion (kit)...could the evo wc be using a different set of parts? i believe am already using the VZ209B (rear bulkhead) and the VZ211B (center bulk) parts. i have yet to try the longer ball cup though... thanks
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:12 AM   #1751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theCROSS
i'll try the longer ball cups... thanks.

any guess on why that could be so? am trying the swaybar on my wce with the evo conversion (kit)...could the evo wc be using a different set of parts? i believe am already using the VZ209B (rear bulkhead) and the VZ211B (center bulk) parts. i have yet to try the longer ball cup though... thanks
The swaybar links are different.
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Old 05-14-2007, 01:53 AM   #1752
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hi all, i race a rrr evo wce, with a front diff

in the front diff i have 50k oil and at the back 30k oil, buth i have not verry much steer and the back is breaking out by comming out of a turn and going early on throttle again, i think i have the wrong diff oil, what thickness oil are you guys running most of the time? thnx greetz marco
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:02 AM   #1753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nismo46
hi all, i race a rrr evo wce, with a front diff

in the front diff i have 50k oil and at the back 30k oil, buth i have not verry much steer and the back is breaking out by comming out of a turn and going early on throttle again, i think i have the wrong diff oil, what thickness oil are you guys running most of the time? thnx greetz marco
30K front and 10K rear is usually a good starting point.
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Old 05-14-2007, 08:14 AM   #1754
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Hello everyone,

Got the car running this weekend. Got through the 2 cualifiers and stated to get a good feel for the car (haven't had practice prior) My solid axle hasn't come in from HK yet, so I mounted a front diff w/ 300 associated oil (almost like puddy). The car ran well for the qualifiers.

Seems my prob w the 2 gear spur was the clutchbell, I had used the wrong shims and it caused play in the clutchbell. The main was a different story, I guess the engine moved because again I lost the 2nd gear spur.

Does anybody have any reccomendations on good motor skrews?

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Old 05-14-2007, 08:49 AM   #1755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
30K front and 10K rear is usually a good starting point.
I agree, but I would tell you to change to the spool in the front.... Also make sure you have the 1.6 blue springs all the way around the car.. Also you mite want to put your rear shocks in the second hole from the botton on the topside of the shocks. Try to get your camber arm as flat as possible...
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