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Old 04-20-2007, 12:45 AM   #1621
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mad price

i also noticed they sell the v-one rrr wce for 309!! us
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Old 04-20-2007, 03:21 PM   #1622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice_nl
What parts would be a good idea to change if you want to get some weight of the car, mine weights now at around 1800gr and i would like to come closer to the minimum weight of 1725gr. I am running an EVO WCE.

I would recommend lightening your rotating mass as much as possible. This will allow the car to spool up faster allowing to accelerate better. Also, try and remove as much as weight as possible, pivot balls, tie rods, screws, etc. When the weight of the car is below the legal limit then you can focus on adding weight back to the car. Try to centralize this added weight under your battery. You can also, try to have a battery tray made out of a heavy material putting this weight in this location will help CG of the car. Be creative!


Hope this helps
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:04 PM   #1623
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[QUOTE=robert maestrey]I would recommend lightening your rotating mass as much as possible. This will allow the car to spool up faster allowing to accelerate better. Also, try and remove as much as weight as possible, pivot balls, tie rods, screws, etc. When the weight of the car is below the legal limit then you can focus on adding weight back to the car. Try to centralize this added weight under your battery. You can also, try to have a battery tray made out of a heavy material putting this weight in this location will help CG of the car. Be creative!


Hope this helps [/QUOTE

Whats up Robert how is things with you.See you are doing well man keep up the good driving man.Btw say hello to Peter and Chris for me when u talk to them or see them
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:21 AM   #1624
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can someone gimmie a heads up... ive installed a spool, 24 tooth front pully and the 387 tooth side belt. should i be using equal tyre diameters front and rear for the 1:1 drive ratio now? is there anything else i should be doing to finish spool setup..??
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Old 04-22-2007, 05:37 AM   #1625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert maestrey
I would recommend lightening your rotating mass as much as possible. This will allow the car to spool up faster allowing to accelerate better. Also, try and remove as much as weight as possible, pivot balls, tie rods, screws, etc. When the weight of the car is below the legal limit then you can focus on adding weight back to the car. Try to centralize this added weight under your battery. You can also, try to have a battery tray made out of a heavy material putting this weight in this location will help CG of the car. Be creative!


Hope this helps
what does your car weigh including body, transponder, no fuel and no added extra weight?
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Old 04-22-2007, 08:22 AM   #1626
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Robert , you will get a kit out of this , I just TQed the Mugen Grand Prix in Vegas and my car is 1815 , LOL . Obserd HUH. I know a lighter car is better for acceleration but it was handling so good I did not want to touch it. The Novarossi 353 was pulling it just fine.
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Old 04-22-2007, 08:27 AM   #1627
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my car weighs 1745g

thats no fuel, 55/55 tires (the smallest i run), mazda 6 and personal


thats the way atomic TQ the mugen race with a RRR hehe
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:30 AM   #1628
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anybody here use Acre Brake Pads? Part number IFW324
I've been using APP and very happy with it, but soon i would replace them
any comment? How is brake power, durability and consistency? Hold brake under racing conditions?
later
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:59 AM   #1629
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I have been using those brake pads for the past 4 months. They work great. Tons of braking power, no fade and very little wear. Overall I have been very happy with them.
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Old 04-22-2007, 08:38 PM   #1630
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I have been using those brake pads for the past 4 months. They work great. Tons of braking power, no fade and very little wear. Overall I have been very happy with them.
Thanks
that's helpful. Will try together with VZW015 Special Rotor

I have started to rebuild the clutch

I was reading Josh Cyrul tips for Clutch tuning and I decided to try it on my car.
First I set the clutch gap in 0.5mm without inner bearing, I could accurately measure with Kyosho Remover Pinion tool. Then I shimmed end-play with 0.11mm of shims to avoid bell to get on the clutch shoes. Did I make it correct? What's my endplay now, 0.11mm? I fired the car and everthing seemed to work normal
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Old 04-22-2007, 10:08 PM   #1631
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kyosho gooooooood
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:37 AM   #1632
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Why doesnt kyosho make new diffs?
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Old 04-23-2007, 01:50 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreme2008
Why doesnt kyosho make new diffs?
What's wrong with the current diff's
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Old 04-23-2007, 03:52 PM   #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
What's wrong with the current diff's
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:53 PM   #1635
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does anyone use the Kawahara Negative Diff?
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