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Old 04-17-2007, 08:12 AM   #1546
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Originally Posted by DaNNy250RRR
where can i find a website that has a lot of kyosho hop up parts , im looking for the steel pinion gears 1&2 every where i look they only have 1st gear please help thanks
http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPa...sort=1a&page=2
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:41 AM   #1547
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Do you have these in stock? How many you got??

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=720
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:48 AM   #1548
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ok thanks, going to try the diff and c how it goes.. wonder what oil is going to work best? ill try the hard type that comes with the kit, maybe using a softer compound would be better though??

Part numbers are in the manual.. for anyone wanting them:

VZ218 - Differential Joint
BS107 - Bezel shaft
VZ012 - Gear Set

cheerz..
On diff oil, 30K front/10K rear is a good combination to start with.
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:14 AM   #1549
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What is the main difference in th e front and rear bulkheads compared to the rrr wc edition and are the upper front arms also different ...
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:11 AM   #1550
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Originally Posted by JRRobiso
Thanks for your responses. Will change and order the screw set from Tony. Regarding the issues with the motor mount, should I just stick with the stock screws or the one's that came with set from Tony would be fine or better than the stock ones?
Well my experince, I have stripped out the motor mount, and I have tried to helicoil it, but this did not work either... I think you are fine if you stay with the standard screws, but I would order a few extras so you have them. I have a lot of extras for the bottom of the car button head screws to mout the engine to the car, as they get ground down from running and if you do not replace them, you will strip them out trying to get them out.

Any one else try installing a helicoil on the motor mount holes?
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:13 AM   #1551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNNy250RRR
where can i find a website that has a lot of kyosho hop up parts , im looking for the steel pinion gears 1&2 every where i look they only have 1st gear please help thanks
I will have to look to see how many of what I have, but have some spare steel gears that I do not need. Most are new, and some have been used once as in 5 min race once... But I will have to take a look at home to see which ones and how many I have. Let me know if you are interested...
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:07 PM   #1552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNNy250RRR
where can i find a website that has a lot of kyosho hop up parts , im looking for the steel pinion gears 1&2 every where i look they only have 1st gear please help thanks

IF you can't find them at a local hobby shop, you can order them directly from Kyosho America. Also, your hobby shop should be able to order them from Kyosho or their distributor. I just got some steel pinions so I know they have/had them only a few days ago.
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:15 PM   #1553
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new car, will be racing it this wknd for the first time. Consensus seams to be a solid uo front so I will run a solid up front.

In the rear I am not sure what diff weight ro run when running w/ the solid front. Has anyone experimented w/ different viscosities for the rear? If so what difference do they make. I have a friend who told me to run 30,000 and that 7,000 will make the car too squirly... but then I have a friend who runs w 50,000 in the rear and says its the only way to make the car turn well. Now this is getting confusing to me, since I haven't had any run time on the track, haven't been able to experiment. I was just wondering your experiences.

Want to have this car dialed soon. Ana links to set-up help for this car is appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:11 PM   #1554
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Originally Posted by havy
new car, will be racing it this wknd for the first time. Consensus seams to be a solid uo front so I will run a solid up front.

In the rear I am not sure what diff weight ro run when running w/ the solid front. Has anyone experimented w/ different viscosities for the rear? If so what difference do they make. I have a friend who told me to run 30,000 and that 7,000 will make the car too squirly... but then I have a friend who runs w 50,000 in the rear and says its the only way to make the car turn well. Now this is getting confusing to me, since I haven't had any run time on the track, haven't been able to experiment. I was just wondering your experiences.

Want to have this car dialed soon. Ana links to set-up help for this car is appreciated.

Thanks
havy

I'm a newbie to this also, but let me tell you this way... If the track is low traction, and the rear end is "loose" then you would want to go down in your oil. The starting point is 30000, but I'm running 10000 because we are parking lot racing and the traction is not high. 10,000 allows the rear diff to slip a little more, and not applying the power to the payement as fast. On a low bite track, you do not want your rear tires to spin, this makes the car not as controllable, and you are wasting rear tires, by burning then off and making them hotter then they need to be. On a high bite track, you would want to run 50000, or a higher diff oil, so the car takes off as the tires will hook up faster and it does not spin the rear tires.

The quick fix to find out which direction you show go, is to put on a softer tire (lower shore number) if this hooks up the rear end, then you need to go down on the diff oil. If you are runnig a short main, the you can get away with a lower shore tire, but if you are running a longer main, then you will need a higher shore in order to have less tire changes during the race.

It really is a balancing act in the end.

I hope this helps...
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:21 PM   #1555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaNNy250RRR
where can i find a website that has a lot of kyosho hop up parts , im looking for the steel pinion gears 1&2 every where i look they only have 1st gear please help thanks
Ok here is what I have and they are extras that I do not need.

2 - 60 spur gears, new
2 - 56 spur gears, new
3 - 15 pinion gears, all 3 are new, 2 of them are Steel, 1 Alum
3 - 20 pinion gears, all 3 are new, 2 of them are Steel, 1 Alum
3 - 21 pinion gears, all 3 are new, 3 of them are Steel
2 - 23 pinion gears, all 2 are new, 1 of them are Steel, 1 Alum

Steel goes for 9.00 each and Alum goes for 5.00 each.
The 60 gears go for 5.00 each
The 56 gears go for 8.00 each
Plus 5.00 in shipping.

Let me know, as I have a paypal account.
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:24 PM   #1556
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Thanks for the pointers bvolts. I don't have 10,000 right now so I'm starting out with 7,000, gonna build antother diff w/ 30,000 and see what happens. The best track I run at doesn't even get close to high bight (based on my experience at the winter nats where for me that was a high bite track.

We'll see how it goes. Thanks again.

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Old 04-17-2007, 02:36 PM   #1557
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bvoltz is pretty close. If you run 10000 in the rear the rear wheels adjust their speed more to the turn.This will increase rear traction and most often take away a little steering. Throttle control is more important so the inside wheel doesn't spin up. The heavier the oil the more the wheels will try to stay the same speed in the corner, which means on entry the car will be more likely to drift, thus adding steering. A balancing act is somewhat of an understatement
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Old 04-17-2007, 03:02 PM   #1558
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I'll keep that in mind, thanks Mike.

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Old 04-17-2007, 03:56 PM   #1559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Ellis
bvoltz is pretty close. If you run 10000 in the rear the rear wheels adjust their speed more to the turn.This will increase rear traction and most often take away a little steering. Throttle control is more important so the inside wheel doesn't spin up. The heavier the oil the more the wheels will try to stay the same speed in the corner, which means on entry the car will be more likely to drift, thus adding steering. A balancing act is somewhat of an understatement
-Mike
I'm learning... Thanks for the tip....
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:14 PM   #1560
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ive learned a lot from all of u guys thanks
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