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Old 04-12-2007, 06:30 PM   #1501
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Originally Posted by jeff1
Does anybody glue diff o-rings to the diff case? The manual asks for, but I can't see benefit doing that :confused

I'm rebuilding my RRR shocks, and I noticed the right shock has more travel on the shaft when I pull against the shock body, its stop in the end of the stroke and the left shock shaft stop in the middle. What am I suppose to do? And what's "rule" to build the shocks properly

thanks
I don't glue the diff rings
check your shock shafts to ensure they are not bent or if you are using pliers to hold the shaft it could be scratched & that will cause the problem
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:15 PM   #1502
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Yes I use pliers to hold the shaft, but I cover with a old t-shirt to avoid damage
after remove bubbles do you insert diaphragm and press it down? Or you just let it seat in shock body and then tighten the cap? Maybe leaked more excess oil of left shock
How is the correct "configuration" for this travel? Do they have to return fully after push or stop on the middle or even don't move? The manual don't explain that
PS. I checked the shafts and they aren't bent
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:42 PM   #1503
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When I fill the shocks I fill them to the top then pump the piston a couple of time then and let the air bubbles rise to the top. Next I top off the shock with oil, place the bladder on the shock but I don't press it down. Then I screw the cap on. The excess oil should leak out the cap. After I build the shocks and I compress the piston it slowly returns most of the way out. To take the shock ends off this is the tool that I use.

Team Shock Shaft Maintenance Plier

It works really well and does not damage the shafts at all.
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Old 04-12-2007, 07:57 PM   #1504
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Attached is an image from an older XRAY manual I have which demonstrates a good shock assembly procedure. It explains how to use side cutters to hold the shock shaft without damaging it. It also explains how to properly install the top seal before screwing on the top cap. Hope it helps...
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo-xray-shock-assembly.jpg  
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:51 PM   #1505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
Yes I use pliers to hold the shaft, but I cover with a old t-shirt to avoid damage
after remove bubbles do you insert diaphragm and press it down? Or you just let it seat in shock body and then tighten the cap? Maybe leaked more excess oil of left shock
How is the correct "configuration" for this travel? Do they have to return fully after push or stop on the middle or even don't move? The manual don't explain that
PS. I checked the shafts and they aren't bent
I would invest in the integy shock tool
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Old 04-12-2007, 08:55 PM   #1506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
Yes I use pliers to hold the shaft, but I cover with a old t-shirt to avoid damage
after remove bubbles do you insert diaphragm and press it down? Or you just let it seat in shock body and then tighten the cap? Maybe leaked more excess oil of left shock
How is the correct "configuration" for this travel? Do they have to return fully after push or stop on the middle or even don't move? The manual don't explain that
PS. I checked the shafts and they aren't bent
Jeff the shocks you are rebuilding are they the evo shocks or are they the older version from the RRR WCE
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:01 PM   #1507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemical X
Attached is an image from an older XRAY manual I have which demonstrates a good shock assembly procedure. It explains how to use side cutters to hold the shock shaft without damaging it. It also explains how to properly install the top seal before screwing on the top cap. Hope it helps...
works very well using side cutters to hold the very top thread to screw the end on, no need for an integy shock tool here just a cheap set of $5 side cutters that are in your tool box. this way nothing will scratch or damage your shock shafts in anyway

the new shocks are ace so far, big improvment over my rrr wce shocks.
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Old 04-12-2007, 09:02 PM   #1508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H4gI
I`m using the CRF clutch and I love it.
Nice performance and the spring is very good to adjust -->you can feel the diference very well.
do you have a link or some pictures of it.

cheers
Chris
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Old 04-13-2007, 10:40 AM   #1509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H4gI
I`m using the CRF clutch and I love it.
Nice performance and the spring is very good to adjust -->you can feel the diference very well.
best for Orion Engine
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Old 04-13-2007, 03:17 PM   #1510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I think I'll just get the KM version and be done with it!
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:32 PM   #1511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chemical X
Attached is an image from an older XRAY manual I have which demonstrates a good shock assembly procedure. It explains how to use side cutters to hold the shock shaft without damaging it. It also explains how to properly install the top seal before screwing on the top cap. Hope it helps...
Awesome information.. thank you
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Old 04-13-2007, 04:35 PM   #1512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMartinez
Jeff the shocks you are rebuilding are they the evo shocks or are they the older version from the RRR WCE
they're the older version of RRR
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:50 PM   #1513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff1
they're the older version of RRR
becareful when tighting down the shock cap overtightening will pinch the bladder & will cause your shocks to get air & that's where you might have a problem in rebounding
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:16 AM   #1514
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Default 2006 worlds setup

does anyone have the rrr setup sheets from the 2006 worlds at brendale??
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:48 PM   #1515
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Default front spool for RRR V one WC

I cant find a spool for my new kit. Does anyone know who has them in stock?

I dont care if its 3 racing, kyosho or K factory.. anything will do at this point.

thanks
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