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Old 04-26-2006, 10:49 AM   #16
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Although I've hopped up my brakes to k-factory calipers and disk, I find that by adding o-rings or pieces of fuel tube on the screws between the calipers it prevents the calipers from rubbing during on-throttle driving thus keeping the brakes cooler. It also gives a smoother more consistent feel to the brakes. Coupled with the fuel tube already supplied for the the throttle linkage, the brakes now feel great.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:44 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warmac
Although I've hopped up my brakes to k-factory calipers and disk, I find that by adding o-rings or pieces of fuel tube on the screws between the calipers it prevents the calipers from rubbing during on-throttle driving thus keeping the brakes cooler. It also gives a smoother more consistent feel to the brakes. Coupled with the fuel tube already supplied for the the throttle linkage, the brakes now feel great.

Just my 2 cents
First, thanks. I appreciate the feedback.

As a whole, I find Nitro racing to be financially impractical . But like a lot of things, we do it because we love doing it - not because it's economical.

I noticed that the K-Factory brake pads that Rob recommended already have the springs on them - http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1498&pageNum=4. Do the ones you have not come with springs? Do you have a picture of how your brakes are setup?
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:52 PM   #18
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One more thing you might add about the brake setup. To get a more linear feel when braking, add a small spring on the brake linkage. Check my attached pic.
I used a front spring for a Mini-Z, but a 1/12th scale front spring works just as good. You don't need a stiff spring, the leverage is sufficient anyway, a "throttle return spring" is way too hard.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR Knowledge Base-brake.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
One more thing you might add about the brake setup. To get a more linear feel when braking, add a small spring on the brake linkage. Check my attached pic.
I used a front spring for a Mini-Z, but a 1/12th scale front spring works just as good. You don't need a stiff spring, the leverage is sufficient anyway, a "throttle return spring" is way too hard.
Sweet!: What a great idea!
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I noticed that the K-Factory brake pads that Rob recommended already have the springs on them - http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1498&pageNum=4. Do the ones you have not come with springs? Do you have a picture of how your brakes are setup?
the springs are the achilles heel of that setup, like all springs they stretch when heated and pressured (compressed/relaxed). However, the ones that come with the K factory brakes are the strongest I've seen yet. I'm actually waiting to see how long these last before I have to change them. I will send you a pic of the brake setup on the one of my other cars where I threw out the springs and went to rubber.

The brakes in those cars are stock and it made a huge difference with combating brake fade.
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparx
One more thing you might add about the brake setup. To get a more linear feel when braking, add a small spring on the brake linkage. Check my attached pic.
I used a front spring for a Mini-Z, but a 1/12th scale front spring works just as good. You don't need a stiff spring, the leverage is sufficient anyway, a "throttle return spring" is way too hard.
This is a good idea Sparkx, the reason why I did not post this though is because I believe it (like most things) is a matter of preference where some people change from springs to tubing and visi versa.

I find that a lot of people are switching back to springs as you suggested. It may just be a matter of finding the right spring. Most of the original springs were ball point pen springs which were too soft. Think I'll try the ones you suggested
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:09 PM   #22
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I bought a set of Iwaver springs for a Mini-Z MR1, got 4 sets of springs for less than 2$. I used the Medium/Soft on my 3R.
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Old 04-27-2006, 12:12 AM   #23
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K-Factory also has a middle shaft block/shaft part #K1913. The shaft kit has a pipe spring holder built into it. According to the graph their shaft is 75%-80% lighter than the RRR's stock middle shaft. What is better (if shaft weight is true) less unsprung weight or lighter car? Because even though the shaft is lighter; doesn't the aluminum middle block offset the saved weight?
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Old 04-27-2006, 02:44 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warmac
This is a good idea Sparkx, the reason why I did not post this though is because I believe it (like most things) is a matter of preference where some people change from springs to tubing and visi versa.

I find that a lot of people are switching back to springs as you suggested. It may just be a matter of finding the right spring. Most of the original springs were ball point pen springs which were too soft. Think I'll try the ones you suggested
I second what Warmac posted, it's a matter of preference on either the usage of springs or tubing. Both of them give different kinda braking characteristics. It's good to use the tubing when one needs good and direct braking power, for eg when you're on front diffs/solid. If on one-way, the spring is good to use in a sense that it gives a softer brake engagement, the springs act something like an ABS, preventing a too sudden brake engagement which causes the rear the break away, the springs work great on the brakes with one-way, of course a good EPA adjustment is crucial in that.
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Old 04-27-2006, 05:21 AM   #25
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Sparx, I too was using a throttle return spring and switched to tubing because it was too hard. How hard is the mini-Z spring? Nobody around here has them, but I do have 1/12 springs. Any suggestions where I might start? Thanks.
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Old 04-27-2006, 05:28 AM   #26
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performula, I would think that the reduction of rotating mass from that would not be offset from any extra weight from the block. The only problem I see is that it says you have to use their chassis.
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Old 04-27-2006, 06:42 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
K-Factory also has a middle shaft block/shaft part #K1913. The shaft kit has a pipe spring holder built into it. According to the graph their shaft is 75%-80% lighter than the RRR's stock middle shaft. What is better (if shaft weight is true) less unsprung weight or lighter car? Because even though the shaft is lighter; doesn't the aluminum middle block offset the saved weight?
I think that lightening the rotating mass is most important. Adding a little extra weight to the mount is not that bad because it is very low on the car. Besides, the alum. mount will not flex which can happen.

I use the Kyosho hollow mid shaft which is lighter than stock and the Kyosho aluminum mount. I think the hollow shaft/alum mount vs stock are similar weight. The Kyosho aluminum mount also has a muffler mount in it.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
I second what Warmac posted, it's a matter of preference on either the usage of springs or tubing. Both of them give different kinda braking characteristics. It's good to use the tubing when one needs good and direct braking power, for eg when you're on front diffs/solid. If on one-way, the spring is good to use in a sense that it gives a softer brake engagement, the springs act something like an ABS, preventing a too sudden brake engagement which causes the rear the break away, the springs work great on the brakes with one-way, of course a good EPA adjustment is crucial in that.

Thanks Tommi, that's a nice way to clarify it.

Additionally, if your radio has the ATL function you can fine tune the adjustment to get the best "feel" of you brake without troubling you throttle settings. Personaly I run around 60% to 70% to prevent the rear from breaking away.
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Old 04-27-2006, 08:58 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsquish
Sparx, I too was using a throttle return spring and switched to tubing because it was too hard. How hard is the mini-Z spring? Nobody around here has them, but I do have 1/12 springs. Any suggestions where I might start? Thanks.
Think i was using a standard (included in box) RC10L4 spring before i switched for Z-spring, the Z-spring is smaller in diameter and fits the linkage better but a 12th scale spring works great too.
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Old 04-27-2006, 10:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Sifting through the Kyosho V-ONE RRR thread was such a pain, that I decided to create a Knowledge Base Web site for the car. Brought to you by Team V1RRR, this Web site includes a FAQ based on the question and answers from the car thread, information about the kit and links to various V-ONE RRR related sites. In the near future, the site will be expanded to include more information about the car, a catalog of hop-ups parts from different companies, setup sheets for different tracks, product reviews and more. The site is just getting started, so if you have any good info, tips, pictures, links or articles pertaining to the V-ONE RRR please consider submitting it for inclusion in the site.

Kyosho V-ONE RRR Knowledge Base:
http://www.nitrokb.com/vonerrr/
nice idea man
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