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Old 04-24-2006, 06:02 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
How do you get to that zip tie when the body is on?
From the rear cooling hole of course! The 710 runners and all the other racers had been doing that all the while....
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:09 AM   #62
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Speaking of which, I am one who would like to keep the car as ORIGINAL as it is...hey, the WCE is NOT a WCE if it's not a WC Winner; this car is already a WINNER that handles well right out-of-box.

Hop-ups wise, it's sure good and nice to have all the alu + metal parts to make the car more "durable" and "good looking", but I'm sceptical that all the parts will alter the car's "ORIGINAL" characteristics. It's just me, whichever I feel unecessary, it's not going to work for me; I'm one who only look for hop-ups when some part of the car just disapppoint me. Been too busy this couple of weeks, I'll give my list of options which I think necessary later.

Hey rmd, checked out your website already, it's looking good.
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Old 04-24-2006, 06:42 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What are we going to do about the rear shock stay? Please choose one of the following:

1. Kyosho VZ231B (standard WCE)

2. Kyosho VZW207 (new) - http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=129143
- http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/4955439870976/

3. Skyline Racing Development - SKL-5002 (4mm) - http://www.skylinercracing.com/store/P_39.htm

4. K Factory Racing K1907 (4mm) - http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1907&pageNum=3

Currently I am using the VZW207 with the SKL-5002. The only difference between the new Kyosho mount and the old one is 2 additional holes when it comes to the shock tower. I took the new Kyosho shock tower and used it as a template to locate the 2 additional holes. I guess what I'm trying to say is, you can use any shock tower you want with the VZW207. You just have to drill 2 new holes.

BTW, I am happy with the VZW207. It is a nice piece. Pat attention to the instructions when installing. As shown, you must modify the end of the upper link to get the full travel.
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:25 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Speaking of which, I am one who would like to keep the car as ORIGINAL as it is...hey, the WCE is NOT a WCE if it's not a WC Winner; this car is already a WINNER that handles well right out-of-box.
I'm not too much of a stickler on OEM parts. As long as it's made for the V1RRR, I'm okay with it. It's not like we're starting to spec out parts from the MTX-4 or 710. That would be hilarious!

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Hop-ups wise, it's sure good and nice to have all the alu + metal parts to make the car more "durable" and "good looking", but I'm sceptical that all the parts will alter the car's "ORIGINAL" characteristics. It's just me, whichever I feel unecessary, it's not going to work for me; I'm one who only look for hop-ups when some part of the car just disapppoint me. Been too busy this couple of weeks, I'll give my list of options which I think necessary later.
This ain't no street thang that we have to impress the honeys with!

Durablity comes first and if it happens to look good, that's just a "bling, bling" bonus ( ). I don't think what we've come up with so far will change the characteristics of the car - and I don't expect that anything will. Freeing up some rotating mass, ensuring that certain parts don't fail during a race or break during a crash and giving the car some very reliable brakes are all good things. More good things are sure to come - it's just that everyone's busy. Even I haven't had the time to post some of the other things that I want to include.

There is no doubt that the WCE addresses many of the shortcomings of the RRR. The UE spec can only make the WCE better - but how much better is yet to be determined. If all the performance upgrades amount to nothing more than a 0.5-1.5 second reduction in lap times, I'd be very happy. It's like free time without having to do anything. Factor numbers like these into the Vegas race and it's a no brainer to run the UE spec. Same thing for 2006 IFMAR Worlds. If I can survive a crash and still place, that would also make me happy. I guess it just depends on what you want out of all of this. Ue ain't for everbody.

But I hear where you're coming from bro, so it's cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Hey rmd, checked out your website already, it's looking good.
Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:44 PM   #65
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after this weekends LVGP that car doesnt need much it is there this was my first race with it & other than my own ability this car rolls
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:26 AM   #66
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RMD,

just checked out your website. Good going.

Looks like it could really help the RRR guys
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Old 04-25-2006, 04:49 AM   #67
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ive read through it too (phew that took a while ) lol
it helped me already !!!!
cant wait til its finished
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Old 04-25-2006, 05:09 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougday
RMD,

just checked out your website. Good going.

Looks like it could really help the RRR guys
Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
ive read through it too (phew that took a while ) lol
it helped me already !!!!
cant wait til its finished
Thanks guys!
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Old 04-25-2006, 06:41 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I'm not too much of a stickler on OEM parts. As long as it's made for the V1RRR, I'm okay with it. It's not like we're starting to spec out parts from the MTX-4 or 710. That would be hilarious!
I prefer genuine Kyosho parts. I don't put other parts on my car unless they are proven better... which is what we are trying to do here.
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Old 04-25-2006, 04:01 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I prefer genuine Kyosho parts. I don't put other parts on my car unless they are proven better... which is what we are trying to do here.
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:22 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hi BundyMan. Have you tried the K Factory ones? What would you say is the primary difference between the two?
Thanks!
THe Kawahara disc is slotted, ventilated, cross-drilled and etc. Will post picture later
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:28 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by jag
Do you mean the actual belt pulley or the hub that the brake disk rides on?

I am using the SP pads with the vented disk and brake fade is not existant. You do have to be careful to get them setup right. This combination is pretty aggressive.
Yep, belt pulley 21T. The aluminium brake holder is also essential. Now using the kawahara disc actually helps to reduce wear on it since its double layered and hence minimal lateral movement on the holder
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:14 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What are we going to do about the rear shock stay? Please choose one of the following:

1. Kyosho VZ231B (standard WCE)

2. Kyosho VZW207 (new) - http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=129143
- http://item.rakuten.co.jp/rc-rainbow/4955439870976/

3. Skyline Racing Development - SKL-5002 (4mm) - http://www.skylinercracing.com/store/P_39.htm

4. K Factory Racing K1907 (4mm) - http://www.kfactoryracing.com/produc...1907&pageNum=3
can't get hold of options 2, 3 & 4...to stiffen the rear shock stay...am using 2nos. of option 1...

btw...rmdhawaii....great website! keep it up!
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Old 04-25-2006, 11:53 PM   #74
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Well I have few item that I would NOT recommend.
1. the atomic mult diff, the out drives are way to soft, groved them in only a twenty min main.
2. 3R-racing radio tray support mounts, rear screws for rec pack are of non standard size,and no matter how much and what type of lock tight I used I keep have loose or missing screws even after a 5 min heat, pulled and installed the stock plastic part.problem fixed.
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Old 04-26-2006, 07:39 AM   #75
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rmdhawaii, you might as well add the MTX-3 style battery pack to the list. It's lighter, if you are running very long mains I'd stick to the larger packs though.
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