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Old 06-08-2006, 06:55 PM   #451
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hey Kewdawg,

Have you done any more testing with the chassis? Is it 7075 aluminum? What other chassis have you tried?

Thanks!
No, not yet. I will be running in a points race at 301 Raceway in MD, this weekend. So, I'll really get to shake down the car in an official race! I'm already impressed with my initial test & tune sessions along with some mock races. This should be a really informative weekend. I'll post my findings.

Other than the stock chassis, I've run the Skyline chassis. Can't say I was really impressed with it's performance. It flexed a little more than I liked. I drive aggressively and the chassis wouldn't hold up to my throwing the car into corners when the traction was high. The real "downer" was after mounting everything to the chassis, I found out that you couldn't use a diff unless you dremeled out one of the crossbars. So, needless to say, I had to work around the diff with the dremel.
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Last edited by kewdawg; 06-08-2006 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:02 PM   #452
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have you guys tried
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:03 PM   #453
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
So much for the Hudy being "Fully Automatic"

The Hudy worked really great - I can't imagine anybody using anything else, but when I saw that picture in the instructions of the guy holding a file, I knew I was in trouble. For $500, you'd think they could include a file and a small brush for clean up.
For the price it should come with a maid... a hot one.
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:05 PM   #454
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Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
have you guys tried
Oh yeah!

For those of you using this chassis (Shimo) how are you attaching the battery?
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:08 PM   #455
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i am a building engineer so i got some commercial 2 way tape but ive seen some people still use tape they just feed it through the slots
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:12 PM   #456
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Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
i am a building engineer so i got some commercial 2 way tape but ive seen some people still use tape they just feed it through the slots
I didn't find that tape worked very well because I could only get 1 wrap around the pack. I used Goop and electrical tape and after a few races it came loose. I would like to find some super tape that would hold it with 1 wrap.
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:13 PM   #457
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people say what if my battery goes bad i dont think that way i hope it doesnt if it does oh well thats racing
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:34 PM   #458
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My lazy way of doing it....

double sided tape between batts and chassis, then use strapping tape (the ones we use for 1/12th), did 2 wraps around it then I did 1 wrap of just plain old electrical tape.

I was going to use Shoe Goo instead of tape, however I was too lazy to sand the chassis and roughen it up so the goo can stick. Without the roughening, the goo would not hold for too long.

Dom
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:46 PM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
My lazy way of doing it....

double sided tape between batts and chassis, then use strapping tape (the ones we use for 1/12th), did 2 wraps around it then I did 1 wrap of just plain old electrical tape.

I was going to use Shoe Goo instead of tape, however I was too lazy to sand the chassis and roughen it up so the goo can stick. Without the roughening, the goo would not hold for too long.

Dom
did you like the chassis
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:50 PM   #460
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Give me a couple more races and I can tell you, I want to try a few more setups with it first.

Dom
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:06 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
Do you cut out two holes in the rear window, or just one??
Cut out as much of the rear window as possible. Use radius corners to help keep the roof supported. Even with the legal windshield hole and front side windows cut, heat can stay trapped in the shell. The rear windshield asks as a dam and keeps it in. Your engine temp would actually be cooler if you compared a body with rear window cut and no side windows cut vs. a body with side windows cut, but little of the rear window cut out. It's all legal to cut out the entire rear window.
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:25 PM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed-dom
Give me a couple more races and I can tell you, I want to try a few more setups with it first.

Dom
well im gonna run this one in the nats ill see what happens
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:39 PM   #463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLOARTIST 702
well im gonna run this one in the nats ill see what happens
Nice chassis!!! You wrap that chassis like a new born baby
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:42 PM   #464
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Nice chassis!!! You wrap that chassis like a new born baby
you should see how hi my ride height is gonna be dont want to tarnish it
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:48 PM   #465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
What's the advantage of extending the zip tie from the gas tank lid to the rear shock tower???
Osiris, for club races, I actually liked curling my zip tie back into the lid to create a loop. This lets my pit guy securely fuel me holding my car with one hand. Two fingers supporting car through rear window and thumb threw the loop. Like holding up a bowling ball. Once he picks it up over pit lane's wall, the tank lid is automatically open. This is not legal.

You could also acheive this by having a long enough zip tie from the lid and securely put to the rr shocktower. You then just yank up the car from the tie in the rear window and the lid opens simultaneously.

Legally (ROAR) the only things that are allowed to stick out of the body is the exhaust stinger and anntena tube, and the rear window is an exception, so racers usually have their zip ties hang out from there almost to the wing. Hope this helps, but I'm sure I may have missed something.
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