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Old 12-18-2002, 01:24 PM   #1
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Arrow proper way to break-in an engine????

i just got my gt4. some people say break the engine in with real-world conditions like fast acceleration, etc while others say break it in slowly. what is the proper way and what should i do? sorry for the newbie question. oh, what should my first upgrades be. im just learning so im not going to be racing any time soon. thanks
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Old 12-18-2002, 01:33 PM   #2
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Break the engine in slow, you will have a slow engine. Break it in fast, you'll have a fast engine. Read the engine or car manual it will tell.
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Old 12-18-2002, 01:44 PM   #3
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thanks bbntc3. so by breaking it in fast, i should accelerate fast, brake hard, turn quick, etc like i was really racing or something? cuz i saw this one guy at my lhs breaking in his novarossi engine in his ntc3 and was going all slow the whole time. he didnt even go full throttle once. so fast break-in is the best then?
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:08 PM   #4
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Default Engine Break-in

STUPID Newbie;

3 tanks idling NO Driving, rich mixture. Allow to cool down between tanks (1-2 hrs).
Tanks 4-6 DRIVE around varying the throttle, SHORT (1-2 secs) bursts of full throttle are OK. Re-adjust tuning as necessary.

By tank 6+ you should be able to tune for maximum power. Try keeping your engine temperature in the 220-240F range. It will usually take about 9-10 tanks of fuel for the piston and sleeve to fully be broken in.

*NOTE*: ALWAYS turn the flywheel so the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve when the engine is cooling down. If it cools down at TDC, the piston can become stuck in the sleeve and damage can result from forcing it down. Once the engine is completely broken in this will no longer be a concern.

These proceedures have always worked well for me and my engines are lasting 1-1/2 to 2 years and are VERY fast.

Don't forget to use after-run oil at the end of the days running.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:20 PM   #5
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hey popsracer. when i turn the flywheel, how do i know if the piston is at the bottom? is it when the flywheel is easier to turn? also with the after-run oil. i havent bought any after-run oil yet. maybe i should go to my lhs and get some. where do i put the oil? do i put it through the throttle into the engine? sorry for the questions. i just got into this hobby and im still learning. thanks popsracer.
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Old 12-18-2002, 03:05 PM   #6
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I have a Sirio .12 that I let it idle for 1 tank and then ran it like I stole it and it has more compression and runs cooler than any engine that I have ever had. There really is no need to break in the new bread of ABC/AAC engines. The purpose of breaking in engines was for all the ringed engines back in the day. I have about 3 gallons through the Sirio and it is the fastest engine I have ever owned and it just runs and runs..
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Old 12-18-2002, 03:37 PM   #7
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so is the rx-18 that comes with the gt4 rtr an abc/aac engine? so do you think i should just race the engine out? i already idled for 1 tank and been driving it slowly the next 2. do you think i should race it out now? just push the engine now? thanks
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Old 12-18-2002, 04:06 PM   #8
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it is my understanding that any type of brand new or rebuilt engine should be broken in slowly and carefully. otherwise, why would "breaking in" be a well know step in running a new engine? the piston and sleeve have to "get to know each other" as well as possible. it just makes sense. i felt guilty for how i broke my first engine in and i idled two tanks and drove half throttle for two or three.
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Old 12-18-2002, 04:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
These proceedures have always worked well for me and my engines are lasting 1-1/2 to 2 years and are VERY fast.

I think a better way to see how long a motor last is how many gallons you put through it.


Yanman is right............DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!
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Old 12-18-2002, 05:47 PM   #10
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I've only owned 2 engines so far. The .18 that comes with the Yok GT4rtr and the OS 12tr that i just recently bought. I broke in my new engine using basically the same method Pops suggested and it runs great. I've always heard that you have to properly break in your engine. This "drive it like you stole it" method is something totally new; i've never heard of this. Can some other experienced veterans chime in on this issue and clear things up? I'm confused now.
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Old 12-18-2002, 06:25 PM   #11
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see. i dont know the real way to break-in the engine. some say the slow method like popsracer said, but some say break it in fast. if you break it in fast, the engine will get broken in with real world conditions and will get use to it, but if you break it in slow, the engine will get use to not being put to its full throttle and will not be as fast. thats something i heard about breaking in engines. but then i still dont know. help us out. any professionals out there?
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Old 12-18-2002, 06:56 PM   #12
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I'm not an expert, but I have broken-in a few engines. The old (slow) method of break-in was to run a few tanks of fuel at idle, on a stand. The new way of break-in (fast) is to run the engine on a stand for about 3 or 4 minutes at idle, repeat this 3 more times (you should go through less than 2 tanks of fuel). Then run the car at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for a tank of fuel. repeat this 3 more times. you should have gone through about 6 tanks of fuel. NOW you can start to lean it out.
Another method, is to run the car on the ground at about half throttle for about one minute at a time for the first few tanks. This method was is R/C nitro a few months back. The method I described should take you about an hour an a half. Put about 6 drops of after run oil in the engine BEFORE you break it in, this will help prevent the engine from locking up on you
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Old 12-18-2002, 07:09 PM   #13
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i've heard so many different methods of breaking in an engine. I guess at the end of they day it might make sense just to follow the manufacturer's instructions. I've done that thus far and have had no problems.
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Old 12-18-2002, 07:29 PM   #14
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what about tamiya fs12 engines?
how are they broken in?
i herd they are slow and for beginners like me, so if i get one i could just run it like i stole it?
what would happen to the tamiya engine?
are they good?
thanks
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Old 12-18-2002, 08:43 PM   #15
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Default Re: Engine Break-in

don't be a fool and drive your brand new engine around at wot without even idling it!! that's stupid, you'll just stress the conrod, piston and the liner!!

high quality engines like novarossi, sirios, jp rb's etc etc etc are so tight when they are new that if you "drove it like you stole it" without idling it you'de probably cause damage to the conrod. you might not break it then but one day at a track.... with hot weather.... and not the best fuel and BANG! your engine will die.

idle for 3 tanks at stock factory needle settings (or richen top and bot 1/8 to 1/4thj if you are using low oil racing fuel, ie trinity platinum 20%) WITH the fuel you will use for racing. don't go mixing and matching crap. use good quality degummed fuel.

then drive it for another two tanks at max half throttle. always make sure smoke comes from the pipe.

next 2 tanks start going a little harder. make sure your plug matches the weather conditions.

Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
STUPID Newbie;

3 tanks idling NO Driving, rich mixture. Allow to cool down between tanks (1-2 hrs).
Tanks 4-6 DRIVE around varying the throttle, SHORT (1-2 secs) bursts of full throttle are OK. Re-adjust tuning as necessary.

By tank 6+ you should be able to tune for maximum power. Try keeping your engine temperature in the 220-240F range. It will usually take about 9-10 tanks of fuel for the piston and sleeve to fully be broken in.

*NOTE*: ALWAYS turn the flywheel so the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve when the engine is cooling down. If it cools down at TDC, the piston can become stuck in the sleeve and damage can result from forcing it down. Once the engine is completely broken in this will no longer be a concern.

These proceedures have always worked well for me and my engines are lasting 1-1/2 to 2 years and are VERY fast.

Don't forget to use after-run oil at the end of the days running.
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