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Old 12-20-2002, 06:33 PM   #31
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Oh, you just seemed so bored with the topic. . .and your answer was so "either you know or you haven't read the manual" that I figured you didn't really want to answer.

No biggy.
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Old 12-20-2002, 07:10 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Oh, you just seemed so bored with the topic. . .and your answer was so "either you know or you haven't read the manual" that I figured you didn't really want to answer.

No biggy.
no biggy for what?
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Old 12-20-2002, 07:43 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Oh, you just seemed so bored with the topic. . .and your answer was so "either you know or you haven't read the manual" that I figured you didn't really want to answer.

No biggy.
Thats not what Manti was saying...

He ment that if you have your own way of breakin do it that way... but if your unsure, do it as the manufacture recomends in their manual.
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Old 12-22-2002, 04:15 AM   #34
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well, my manual said,
Quote" We will take no responsible for damaged engines if broken in with out driving"
In other words up on a block.
So i asked my LHS guy, he said so many tanks half throttle, yada yada ya.
any way i went
2 tanks nice cruisey sorta speed,
3 tank leaned a bit, bursts to full throttle,
4th tank, thru till i finished the litre, Drag racing V8s down my street,
its only rated at 0.64 Hp, but it gets up and goes over a straight of about 75-100 metres, and runs as quick as the big brand name engines.
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Old 12-22-2002, 06:59 AM   #35
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step 1 , run the fuel you will race with to break in, ie 30%, 20% nitro

step 2, heat cycle the motor 5 to 6 times, start the motor let idol until hot, maybe 1 or two minutes, shut motor off, and make sure you move the piston too bottom dead center( piston is at the bottom of the cylinder)

step 3, dirve the car at verying loads for a tank, or two, no bodie no full speed runs, just keep a mild load on the motor, drive slowly around in circles and up and down the drive or street, if you are luck enough to have a track drive the course, slowly... watch temp try to keep it under 210 but over 180( if it is too cold it will not wear properly).

step 4, another tank with short high speed runs, 2 to 3 second bursts, and plenty of slow driving between.. shoot for the same temp range.

step 5, put that bodie on work the tune to race levels and shoot for 220 degrees.. and go racing...

the most important part of the break in is the heat cycle followed by the working of parts together gradually..... slow driving.......
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Old 12-22-2002, 11:09 AM   #36
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First All your methods have their good points, but, V one S I beleive what the manufacturer is talking about is bench break-in. (no load). Most manufactures suggest a least 2 - 4 short runs (3 or 4 minutes) on a block with the wheels off the ground. Ammdrew, your break-in sounds right, but for race engines (ABC)you can go up to 260 to 280 degrees. For most beginer engines(ABN) you are correct in that they should run about 220 to 240 degrees with the body on
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Old 12-22-2002, 01:36 PM   #37
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I do believe Ammedrew is "dialed in" on break in proceedure and his running temps. I run small block novarossi line engines (onroad and offroad) at 210-220 degrees, without EVER having a problem with Flameout, Blowby, or any other condition due to overheating of the engines. Should the clouds pass and the sun come out in the middle of a 30 minute heat , or simply be at the bottom fuel level it is nice to know your equipement is safe. Just my thoughts on this issue guys.
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Old 12-23-2002, 02:00 AM   #38
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Yeah the bench break-in is wat my manuafacturer was talking about, they say it doesnt work properly and with no load, it can when started snap the grudgon pin if it locks up at TDC

thats y i said it.
Everyone has ways to break in an engine,
for a beginner i was firstly told touse 5% nitro so i cant damage the engine if i go over half throttle, because i was told by my LHS no to pass half throttle until the 6th tank, and only then it was to give quick bursts.
I was also told to do it the bench way. But my dad who has plenty of experience with engines even told me not to do it.
i was told heaps of ways,
i basically followed my LHS way until i couldnt resist giving full throttle.
But i ran a little bit richer then what it should of been during the process, plus i also used 20%nitro 20%oil.

And now the engine flys, but once tuned it becomes very hot, even when still slightly lean
Damn GS15-r, they always run hot, and they are basically and 80$ engine.
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Old 12-23-2002, 11:29 AM   #39
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I have a Nova that seemed to always run hot, It could be your low speed needs to be adjusted, sorry I don't have my books here(I'm on my brothers computer) or you could have the wrong glow plug in the engine. Try changing to a hotter glow plug, such as an Mc59. That was my problem, I changed to a hotter plug, now the engine runs a a constant 265 degrees.
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Old 12-23-2002, 12:38 PM   #40
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The bench methods that I have seen have always put some load on it, usually with a propeller, but I have seen one with a magnetic inductor - that was cool! Breaking in a motor with no load is not something I would ever do.

I did hear, however, that if you break in a motor with one percentage of nitro, or even brand of fuel, that you stick with it throughout the life of the motor. Not sure about it, since I stick with O'Donnell 20% anyway. . .
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Old 12-24-2002, 06:49 AM   #41
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ive switched fuels a few times and it never seems to make a difference just a little tuning is all that required most recently ran trintiy platnium 30 and switched to blue thunder race formula 30 had to lean high speed 3/16 of turn then same as before performance bluethunder has got alot more oil in it
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Old 12-24-2002, 07:46 PM   #42
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I found that after running an engine hard a while it cools off slightly in temp. Sounds kinda weird, but it does cool off. I run Blue Thunder 20% regular blend. For mt sts mt12, i let it idle 2 tanks on my starter box. That's just my way of doing it. After, i ran it hard, but within limits. Like i said before, it didn't have descent instructions from a newbie's stand of point. But luckly i knew what's what and how to do it properly.

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And for those who like to get another perspective or opinion, keep asking your questions. Manticore may not answer, but Pops, Patella, Rajun, and the rest of us will keep answering!
well put Boomer!

Of course us guys will keep helping and doing our best. That's what the forums are all about. I know some people rely on these forums for important questions. Sometimes we may not all agree, but by seeing everyone's view on a subject, we can all learn more and help one another.

Merry Christmas guys!!!
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Old 12-24-2002, 07:57 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by TheRagunCajun
I found that after running an engine hard a while it cools of slightly in temp. Sounds kinda weird, but it does cool off. I run Blue Thunder 20% regular blend. For mt sts mt12, i let it idle 2 tanks on my starter box. Thats just my way of doing it. After i ran it hard, but within limits. Like i said before, it didnt have descent instructions from a newbie's stand of point. But luckly i knew what's what and how to do it properly.



well put Boomer!

Of course us guys will keep helping and doing our best. That's what the forums are all about. I know some people rely on these forums for important questions. Sometimes we may not all agree, but by seeing everyone's view on a subject, we can all learn more and help one another.

Merry Christmas guys!!!
I have an unauthorized speakperson here and he is well put ! what is this world all about?

good or bad advice? a newbie never know.
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Old 12-24-2002, 08:34 PM   #44
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my temps are right on, unless you have extreme humidity, and or ambient temps, that is the temps i ran in houston in the rain, at cinn nats and worlds...

if you have high temps without extreme weather also, you have a airleak and or a needle way off, usually it is a overlean lowend needle ...

yes, i do not tune from temps, just use as a guideline...
tune from performance....except at club level, i always keep it at 220

in general 280 is not very good and 300 is doing damage...

i have noticed very little problems changing fuels also, note though your race breed fuels are less syn and more castor based and if you go lean you will eat the piston.... blue thunder, odonnels, trinity monster, are all pretty on par for average club racing.....
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Old 12-25-2002, 11:44 AM   #45
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Default Very interesting and popular topic

You can't go to a RC website without seeing "breakin proceedures" and "running temp" debated in maltaple threads. He says...They say...I would. For the guys that may need to know "WHY". The reasoning for the breakin proceedur is to allow for the fallowing: 1) "Thermal expansion" of the alloys combined in engine assembly. Bearings, ABC constructed piston and sleeve sets, casted alluminume engine case, crank shaft all have a different coefficient thermal expansion . In other words, Each degree the teperature is increased these alloys expand at diferent rates. These engines are very carefully engineered & tolleranced (some better than others) to allow for optimum performance at high temps. BUT LETS NOT GET CARRIED AWAY 2) "Stress relieving of alloys"...Machining alloys by turning, milling , Grinding ,etcetera are all stress induced. Some manufactureers are baking or using chemicals to stress relieve these parts....Most do nothing. The final and most thurough is done by the end user at the break in proccedure. These are the fundamentals I concider when HEAT CYCLING a new engine, gradually. Hope you all have a Merry Chrismass!
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