fly_wheel

iTrader: (9)

i was running 196 front in mine but it's ok...

spurgear

Im using a solid front. The pins are in and they are locked

spurgear

Right now it seems cursed. But to make the dogbones work i will turn it out to 199. I do normally race with 196 and cvds and it works even better in turns

spurgear

Interesting. I will look at this also. Im going on the hudy now and will be testing again this evening. I will remove the top deck and secure it properly. I even removed the mid shaft block and re installed it.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

ok guys I may be getting a 720 08. Is this car still pretty compeitive? How is it as far as getting parts? What parts are needed to upgrade to the 09 version? I know the 733 is coming out but I dont think Im quite a good enough driver yet in on road to probaly notice a difference in a all new chassis. Is the 720 pretty durable? I dont want to break everytime I tap a board. Thanks Also please tell me it doesnt have those clicker shock pistons

Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Yes the car is still competitive as for the shocks no they aren't the click design the have pistons that you would have to change if you wanted to change to more or less holes opened.

M7H

I liked those shocks....
Xray still uses them on there NT1 I believe...

cobrajet

iTrader: (5)

Ive broke a few upper arms from other cars and one kid on the track. that, a pipe and a mass murdering of bodys i've been very lucky or the car is pretty tough. i did have to screw down the tie rods do to local racers thinking this is a contact sport.

ma_RC_el

I have some issues with the one way bearings in the 1st gear carrier of my serpent 720.
I already broke several of them (they start slipping). How often do I nead to completely clean the bearing? How often does it need a new/extra drop of one-way lube and how many drops do you guys put-in?
when they start slipping, does it mean they are totally broken, or is there a way to fix?

M7H

Be sure that the adapter which carries the one way bearing has a little bit of play on the 2-speed shaft when the c-clip is mounted.
If this is not the case, go for another one...

http://www.serpent.com/product/902412


I clean them... not very often, once every 3 races or so, just 1 or 2 drops of oil should be enough....

spurgear

Ran the car last weekend and these are the changes. Removed the solid front and installed a new front diff with 50,000 oil. Installed the rear roll bar. Car has no tweak. Three degrees rear toe and camber. Clutch gap is set to 0.5 and spring is gold with 1.5mm of tension. Here is a video link of the car and u can clearly see what is happening at 3:07
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geS5ykvm2qY
It seems like the engine is tuned badly. But u can see the handling problems clearly. Here are two pics. One of the rear left tyre

and the rear right tyre.

So the problem is still there but on a much smaller scale and the extreme tyre wear is still unexplained. Those tyres were brand new before testing.

Maxx

iTrader: (1)

Hey Spurgear, do you run oval? that is a radical difference in tire wear left to right. Anyway, from the pic i see here you are running red springs front and rear. Most of the people who drive a 720 have at least one spring rate split between the front and rear. When i run on a medium to low traction track i will go with a 2 spring rate differential from front to back. If i ran red springs all around my car would be waaaaay loose. As it is on a low to medium traction surface even when i run purple in the front and yellow in the rear i have to make other adjustments such as lower rear roll center and lower camber link to make the car stick. I would definitely go with softer springs in the back, and or harder front springs to make this car work the way it should. What you will lose in steering you will gain in stability. There are other ways to gain steering if the car is too stuck as a resutl of what i said but we'll cross that path when we get to it. For now try the springs and we'll take it from there.

spurgear

I just uploaded the video. Im using red in the back and purple up front. These are the changes i made for this weekends testing. I put in the yellow in the back and changed the rear diff oil to 20,000. The rear roll center is stock. Im putting the left wheel to 4 degrees camber and the right stays at three. What i did find out that the left shock piston is two hole and all others were three. That may perhaps explain the tyre wear but not the handling. I know this because i took all the shocks as is off another car. Oh and my car is the blue one and the problem car is the green with white. Strangely my car doesnt have that problem as u can see in the video. Out of the turn at full throttle the car doesnt stay straight
Heres a better shot of the tires

cobrajet

iTrader: (5)

I don't think spring rate is the problem. Reds on both is the box setup and I run both blue as a starting set up. Was about to say check your dampeners but looks like you found something

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

After looking at the track, you have twice more turns to the right than to the left. Thus, the left side of the car's tires will be worn out more. The reason why such a radical difference is because of your loose setting. When you have fixed your loose setting you'll notice that the difference left-right should be minimum.

By the looks of the video, it looks like its a parking lot, therefore the traction would be somewhat medium. I'd suggest going 500cst weight on the shocks, (Stock Serpent is about 620ish), using blue upfront and yellow rear (old spring code). And 10k in the rear diff and 100k in the front diff.

Also, be sure your whole suspension is not binding, you can have Morganti's setup in your car, but if you have a mechanical failure, such as binding, or an unscrewed pulley, you arent getting anywhere.

Also, another thing to look at is the track width, I 99% of the time ran 199mm front and 200mm rear. Going to 199mm up front, I had to shave the half moon on the arms to be free of binding. Going anything narrower than 199, you'll have to probably shave something off the CVD/dog bone.

I have also found that tire split plays a huge component in setting. From 2mm split to 1mm split, the difference in "feel" of the car is huge.

I think it'd be easier if you just took a setup sheet filled it out and post it here. Then we might tell you where you can get the grip your looking for.