Serpent-Dan

iTrader: (18)

Good to hear J. Yeah the 733 is gonna be a beast.

yappy

iTrader: (3)

what body is displayed on the front of the 720 boxes and pictures?

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

its a Dodge Stratus... Im inclining towards saying its the 2.0 version not the 2.1.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

I dont think the OS TZ is competitive anymore. I would rather suggest people to get a JLR or a Max RR3/JP First Line

redsand

If the problem persists, rebuild the chassis entirely.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

spur gear, i think one thing that has been over looked is the front cv's
check to make sure the pins are still in the cv. the grub screw can work loose in the CV, and bind, once the grub screw wears enough, the screw will work its way out. then the pin rattles, and i have had 2 of them break the pins, looks like the cv is still in tact. but infact, its free spinning, making it 3 or even 2 wheel drive.

M7H

My suggestion, DON'T put in this grub screw...
You don't need it anyway....

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i think most of the damage to the pins happens when the screw starts locking up. i did leave the screws out this time with the pro shafts, and all is good still. i also did it with the 966.

M7H

The first time I built the 960, with the front cvd's, I really was wondering why this grubscrew is there.
To save weight I didn't put it in....

spurgear

I spent the last four hrs trying to fix this car. I did all the suggested checks on the car. Did I mention the car is brand new. It's a friend if mines that I got for him. Firstly i checked the front belt and there was no sign of it slipping. I checked the side belt and it was good. I replaced both the belts. I set the tension on the hardest in the front and the side tensioner was also increased. The front cvds were removed and was checked. I didnt see anything wrong with it but i removed it and installed the stock dogbones instead. I ran into another problem. There is about 3mm of play from the downstop. The bones are binding and the cvds werent. The only thing i could think of is the front track width. Right now its 196. What u guys think. I also checked and reset and retightened all pulleys. No sign of slipping. All grub screws were found to be locked tight.
I also noticed something strange. The rear side belt pulley. The manual says is 21T. Well on this car on the pulley itself is says 2SP 22T. Is that an error? I then counted the teeth on the 2SP 22T and i got 21 teeth!! Anyone else notice this?

spurgear

The car came as a brand new rolling chassis. The first thing I did was I teared it down to the diff supports. Everything was checked and rebuilt and engine and electronics were installed. And the problem was there from day one

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Are you using a front one way or a front diff? if using the front one way then check if the front one way bearings are working.

redsand

Is the chassis cursed ? lol.....
Anyway, speaking of the front track width, I find it too narrow being 196mm.
Have you by any chance tried wider width ? Too narrow a front width may cause strange problem.

quietstorm76

iTrader: (12)

I had the problem that you are describing and it was a tweaked chassis for me. The car handled fine on big tires(61/62) but on smaller tires(58/59) it sucked. Ride height was good at the front and rear but in the middle of the car it was only 2.5mm. The chassis was bowed and hitting the ground spinning the car out. Make sure the chassis is not bowing when all the braces and radio tray are tightened down.

dj apolaro

I run 198-199 front track width.