eduardo_garcia

any news about serpent on the worlds?

border r/c

WOW.
TM G4S direct in the final.

1.Chris Tosolini-Kyosho RRR-EVO/SIRIO
2.Dario Balestri TM-G4S/NOVAROSSI 12PLUS
3.Adrien Bertin Kyosho RRR-EVO/SIRIO
4.Takaaki Shimo Kyosho RRR-EVO/SIRIO

Jetforce

I have a question about arms...

The new one is out but i heard from my lhs that the catch isnt in the size but in the arm material..

Cuz the hole is still 4.6mm as in the old one...

Is this correct?

Regards,
Nejc

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

take a look at the "chassis".......

"interesting"

http://www.mytsn.com/news/publ.asp?pid=12083

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Only six of those were made, Paolo had a guy that have a machine shop mill those chassis, they are kind of a prototype

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

Shooter already has their version in production:

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

NICE !

_cyclops_

Correct, the material is a little harder, the old ons seemd to bend to mutch...

asil

what's the amount that the chassis is lowered? any ideas?

Jetforce

Thats what i wanted to hear

Thanks

Fernando_M

Where can it be found? Any web page in the US?
How much is it?

Thank you
FM

neltime64

iTrader: (8)

I recently had a driver error problem/brain dump with my Centax III for my S720 that I need some assistance with. For some reason, my clutch keeps wearing out my clutch shoes and leaving a patch of dust residue behind. Afterwards, I replaced everything and rebuilt according to the manual and same thing. I've built the clutch before without any problem in the past. What am I doing wrong?

Motor: Mega ZX-12
Spring: Hard spring
Shoe: Yellow

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

The endplay is very important and also the clutchbell should be free spinning. I pay attention to this and I've had good luck with my clutch and I hope the procedure below helps.

When you have everything installed up to the centax preload adjusting nut, put a washer before placing the bearings. Now install the bearings and the clutchbell then check if the clutchbell is free spinning. Spin the clutchbell with the motor facing up (the cluthbell being on top). At this point you will notice that the clutch will not free spin due to it touching the clutch shoes already. Remove the clutchbell and the bearings and add one or two more washers and recheck. Keep adding and rechecking until the clutchbell is free spinning. The number of washers needed depends on the motor but don't worry if you end up having a lot of washers in there as long as the clutchbell is free spinning at this point. This is to ensure that you are not rubbing the shoe to the clutchbell at idle.

Refer to your manual when you get to the thrust bearing and shimming the outside for the endplay.

Jetforce

Check the endplay and clutch gap that should do the trick!

Derby Bros Racing

iTrader: (7)

Serpent Middle shaft steel light SPP
#802163 – Suitable for 710/720