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Old 08-08-2006, 07:25 AM   #976
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
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A lighter diff oil could also work, but if you have high speed corners in your track the car get's very nervous and almost impossible to control.
You mean like the canteen corner at MACH? What did you do there to cure the problem?
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:23 AM   #977
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Sow&Steady, razzor,

I've got this movie at a better quality resolution as well. I had to reduce the size to get it to a size that I could upload to google.

I could upload this to an ftp site, or on to our ftp site. I could only upload it to our ftp site on thursday.

Let me know if I could dump this file somewhere for you guys.

PS. "Remember to put my name somewhere as well.
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:34 AM   #978
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last national there where some 720's.. i've also seen them going to 2 holes in the rear...
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:02 PM   #979
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Originally Posted by ProE
Sow&Steady, razzor,

I've got this movie at a better quality resolution as well. I had to reduce the size to get it to a size that I could upload to google.

I could upload this to an ftp site, or on to our ftp site. I could only upload it to our ftp site on thursday.

Let me know if I could dump this file somewhere for you guys.

PS. "Remember to put my name somewhere as well.
ProE, if you uploaded it to an FTP site, just give me the server address/name, username and password to download it and then I'll post it on 3hobby edit (it it needs editing). Of course credit always goes to you.
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:14 PM   #980
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Hi

I'm building my 720 but I notice that the front dogbones are too loose. Is it correct? If I turn the wheels, the dogbones fell off the car.
Do I need to but the expenssive CVDs?

regards

Eduardo
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:31 PM   #981
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Originally Posted by eduardo_garcia
Hi

I'm building my 720 but I notice that the front dogbones are too loose. Is it correct? If I turn the wheels, the dogbones fell off the car.
Do I need to but the expenssive CVDs?

regards

Eduardo
One way is to narrow the track width. The other is to put something into the outdrive to space the dog bone out. Some kind of rubber spacer or tissue paper very little does a lot. Also make sure that when you do this that they are not binding when the suspension is compressed.
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Old 08-08-2006, 03:21 PM   #982
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One way is to narrow the track width. The other is to put something into the outdrive to space the dog bone out. Some kind of rubber spacer or tissue paper very little does a lot. Also make sure that when you do this that they are not binding when the suspension is compressed.
I'm using the diff. I don't know why serpent didn't fix this bug on 720. I had the same problem on my old 710. I normaly uses a piece of fuel tube, but the dogbone always fell in a big crash (the tube is compressed and the dogbone fell off)
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Old 08-08-2006, 04:41 PM   #983
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Default Dog Bones

I could be wrong, but I think Kawada(?) made a nice set of universals for the 710 that were a bit longer than the stock 'bones. Thery might work again here?

D
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:36 PM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardo_garcia
I'm using the diff. I don't know why serpent didn't fix this bug on 720. I had the same problem on my old 710. I normaly uses a piece of fuel tube, but the dogbone always fell in a big crash (the tube is compressed and the dogbone fell off)
Sorry but you are absolutely certain about your track width? When I first built mine I used 199mm track width with 26mm front foam tyres. I used the softest fuel tubing about 4 or 5mm long on the diff cups and they just allowed the front arms to go full up.

Now I've just "decommissioned" my 710 and am using the CVD from it on the front of the 720.
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:44 PM   #985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
You mean like the canteen corner at MACH? What did you do there to cure the problem?
I run 30.000 in the rear diff and the car is very stable in the canteen.
Didn't had any problems in the canteen, full throttle is no problemo.

I mean if you lighten your rear diff too much(10.000cst) make sure you don't have fast corners(70+) at your track, otherwise you loose all stability.
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:59 PM   #986
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Originally Posted by Acid

soc123_au, what did you mean when you said lay the shocks right over? More vertical or more at an angle?



Acid
Standard position on the arm & innermost position on the tower. I think the diff oil is the biggest factor though. The rest of the setup is basicly the kit setup. Camber has been adjusted to get a nice cone (about 1%) on the rear tyres & wear flat on the front. I also went to 60000 in the front diff. Havent tried a oneway yet.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:03 PM   #987
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Default Parts for 720

Anybody know where i can get parts for 720,most especially the rear shock tower
Thanks
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:11 PM   #988
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All the tracks I have raced the 720 on so for have been fairly technical car park tracks with no real high speed corners. The first opertunity I will have at a more open track will be at the worlds next month. Hopefully it is better on that track than the 710 was.
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Old 08-08-2006, 06:31 PM   #989
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Originally Posted by serpentpro28
Anybody know where i can get parts for 720,most especially the rear shock tower
Thanks
try www.brooklynhobbies.com & give them a call
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Old 08-08-2006, 07:24 PM   #990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardo_garcia
Hi

I'm building my 720 but I notice that the front dogbones are too loose. Is it correct? If I turn the wheels, the dogbones fell off the car.
Do I need to but the expenssive CVDs?

regards

Eduardo
You can also use Kawahara centershaft set part # ZF-142 and you need 2 sets, because this set have a long and a short dogbone. I use the long once at my 710. Never lost one and don't use fueltube or other things between.
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