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Old 07-31-2006, 02:54 PM   #856
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Default Gurney Stríp

Quote:
Originally Posted by captian
are you talking about the lola body?
No really I was really interested i checking if on the stratus 3.1, can you change the Gurney Strip?, some time I see some Set Up sheets with some reference of the Gurney Strip in this Body.

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Old 07-31-2006, 03:10 PM   #857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcpanama
No really I was really interested i checking if on the stratus 3.1, can you change the Gurney Strip?, some time I see some Set Up sheets with some reference of the Gurney Strip in this Body.

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This is because you have 3 positions of the wing. Front, Middle and Rear.
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:20 PM   #858
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Default Gurney Stríp

Quote:
Originally Posted by dj apolaro
This is because you have 3 positions of the wing. Front, Middle and Rear.
So when the set up says, normal in the Gurney, that will be the middle?
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:22 PM   #859
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Talking Whut Up

captian whats up man long time no word ..got a 720 , MTX4 but seem to like the 720 more ....
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:06 PM   #860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
I have a camber gauge and a ruler. Has been faultless for 10 years!
That's about right too because I saw you working at the GP.

Hmmm ... now I'm wondering how you filled in all those set-up sheets? Eyeballed?!
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:07 PM   #861
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.Wright
I am selling my V-one RRR WC's and buying a couple of 720's are the wheel off sets for the 720 0 degrees can I still use the tires I bought for the V-one RRR? (Anyone want to buy a couple of Kyoshos) LOL

Jim
Yes you use the same tyres.
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:10 PM   #862
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Default Skyline Option Parts for Serpent 720

Hi,,

Skyline R/C Racing just released 2 new option parts for Serpent 720.

1. Hollow Light Weight Main 2 Speed Shaft.
2. Hollow Light Weight Mid Shaft.

More option parts for Serpent 720 will be coming up soon.

Thanks
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www.skylineRCracing.com



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Old 07-31-2006, 05:13 PM   #863
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cool!
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Old 08-01-2006, 01:32 AM   #864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
I have a camber gauge and a ruler. Has been faultless for 10 years!

Well now, even though the reply hints of sarcasm, I agree To be honest, everytime I use the camber gauge, the setup works

Last night I was trying out camber rise adjustments with the 720 and I wanted to check something with all of you....

I am running lowered roll centre at the rear and when I changed the camber rise links and shortened the camber links to its smallest possible length, my camber was still positive

Yes, when I pushed the chassis down the camber went to negative to about 4 degrees.

Is this right? Or should I cut (shorten) the camber links more so that when the chassis is straight the camber is negative?

Also, when is it good to use camber rise. Is this truly dependant on the track, slow vs fast corners?

Please see pic....

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Old 08-01-2006, 03:06 AM   #865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid
Well now, even though the reply hints of sarcasm, I agree To be honest, everytime I use the camber gauge, the setup works
The sarcasm is there, because I feel many people spend huge amounts of money on setup systems that are convenient but not necessarily better.

I truly use only a camber gauge. It's precise enough for me.
I do have downstop and ride height gauges too...
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Last edited by Julius; 08-01-2006 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:17 AM   #866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid
Last night I was trying out camber rise adjustments with the 720 and I wanted to check something with all of you....

I am running lowered roll centre at the rear and when I changed the camber rise links and shortened the camber links to its smallest possible length, my camber was still positive

Yes, when I pushed the chassis down the camber went to negative to about 4 degrees.

Is this right? Or should I cut (shorten) the camber links more so that when the chassis is straight the camber is negative?

Also, when is it good to use camber rise. Is this truly dependant on the track, slow vs fast corners?

Acid
You can't use the same links as you'd use with the long arm.
In the kit there should be a long setscrew (m3 * 20mm)

Make a new link with those using two ball joints that you need to cut about 1mm off the neck. Total link size is about 40.5 to39.5mm depending on the camber setting you want and the width of the car.

You might need to make the setscrew about 2mm shorter to get the length right...
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:27 AM   #867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
The sarcasm is there, because I feel many people spend huge amounts of money on setup systems that are conveinient but not necessarily better.
Convenience is worth something too, though if it's worth the price hudy wants for it remains to be seen...

lobotm (as he is known here on the forum) recently bought a cheap setup kit. It's not the same quality as a hudy and feels a bit flimsy, but it's accurate enough and makes setting up the car a little bit easier, compared to a camber gauge and a ruler. Especially toe-in and toe-out are easier to set up correctly...
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Old 08-01-2006, 03:31 AM   #868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
You can't use the same links as you'd use with the long arm.
In the kit there should be a long setscrew (m3 * 20mm)

Make a new link with those using two ball joints that you need to cut about 1mm off the neck. Total link size is about 40.5 to39.5mm depending on the camber setting you want and the width of the car.

You might need to make the setscrew about 2mm shorter to get the length right...


Thanks Julius - I have those tools too (ride height and downstop) and you are right, they work and precise enough. Will follow your advice.

Regarding the camber rise links - you the man See, last night I though I was going a bit mad... but now, I know how to sort out....

Julius, the Serpent book does not tell you when to use camber rise - can you comment - how does it affect the handling of the car?

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Old 08-01-2006, 03:34 AM   #869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlone
Convenience is worth something too, though if it's worth the price hudy wants for it remains to be seen...

lobotm (as he is known here on the forum) recently bought a cheap setup kit. It's not the same quality as a hudy and feels a bit flimsy, but it's accurate enough and makes setting up the car a little bit easier, compared to a camber gauge and a ruler. Especially toe-in and toe-out are easier to set up correctly...
Thanks Qlone

Good point, without a setup system how can you setup toe at the front of the car?

Rear, you can use the camber gauge again... front

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Old 08-01-2006, 04:38 AM   #870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlone
Convenience is worth something too, though if it's worth the price hudy wants for it remains to be seen...

lobotm (as he is known here on the forum) recently bought a cheap setup kit. It's not the same quality as a hudy and feels a bit flimsy, but it's accurate enough and makes setting up the car a little bit easier, compared to a camber gauge and a ruler. Especially toe-in and toe-out are easier to set up correctly...
This is where I disagree with the users of setup systems. The toe-measurements are not precise at all. Set the toe on a setup system and then put a ruler along the wheels and measure against the front wheel (when setting rear toe). You'll often find large differences.

I must agree though that using a ruler will not give "exact toe numbers" but as a rule of thumb I use 4mm is a degree of toe. So if trackwidth front and rear is equal you can estimate toe by measuring agains the tire on the opposite side. Halfway on the front tire would be around 3 degrees of toe-in.

Although a setup station can be usefull for setting the "numbers" I suggest using a ruler afterwards to check and fine tune the setting so left and right are equal.
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