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Old 06-16-2009, 02:13 PM   #4951
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Good to hear J. Yeah the 733 is gonna be a beast.
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:53 PM   #4952
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what body is displayed on the front of the 720 boxes and pictures?
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:02 PM   #4953
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what body is displayed on the front of the 720 boxes and pictures?
its a Dodge Stratus... Im inclining towards saying its the 2.0 version not the 2.1.
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Old 06-16-2009, 03:32 PM   #4954
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Originally Posted by beta bob View Post
Wow you don't even need that $450 motor you would be just as competitive with just the O.S. tz which is almost half the price
I dont think the OS TZ is competitive anymore. I would rather suggest people to get a JLR or a Max RR3/JP First Line
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:23 AM   #4955
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Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
Thanks will check this also!
If the problem persists, rebuild the chassis entirely.
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:17 AM   #4956
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Thanks will check this also!
spur gear, i think one thing that has been over looked is the front cv's
check to make sure the pins are still in the cv. the grub screw can work loose in the CV, and bind, once the grub screw wears enough, the screw will work its way out. then the pin rattles, and i have had 2 of them break the pins, looks like the cv is still in tact. but infact, its free spinning, making it 3 or even 2 wheel drive.
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:42 AM   #4957
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the grub screw can work loose in the CV, and bind,
My suggestion, DON'T put in this grub screw...
You don't need it anyway....
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Old 06-17-2009, 06:51 AM   #4958
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My suggestion, DON'T put in this grub screw...
You don't need it anyway....
i think most of the damage to the pins happens when the screw starts locking up. i did leave the screws out this time with the pro shafts, and all is good still. i also did it with the 966.
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:39 AM   #4959
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The first time I built the 960, with the front cvd's, I really was wondering why this grubscrew is there.
To save weight I didn't put it in....
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:22 PM   #4960
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I spent the last four hrs trying to fix this car. I did all the suggested checks on the car. Did I mention the car is brand new. It's a friend if mines that I got for him. Firstly i checked the front belt and there was no sign of it slipping. I checked the side belt and it was good. I replaced both the belts. I set the tension on the hardest in the front and the side tensioner was also increased. The front cvds were removed and was checked. I didnt see anything wrong with it but i removed it and installed the stock dogbones instead. I ran into another problem. There is about 3mm of play from the downstop. The bones are binding and the cvds werent. The only thing i could think of is the front track width. Right now its 196. What u guys think. I also checked and reset and retightened all pulleys. No sign of slipping. All grub screws were found to be locked tight.
I also noticed something strange. The rear side belt pulley. The manual says is 21T. Well on this car on the pulley itself is says 2SP 22T. Is that an error? I then counted the teeth on the 2SP 22T and i got 21 teeth!! Anyone else notice this?
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Old 06-17-2009, 10:36 PM   #4961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsand View Post
If the problem persists, rebuild the chassis entirely.
The car came as a brand new rolling chassis. The first thing I did was I teared it down to the diff supports. Everything was checked and rebuilt and engine and electronics were installed. And the problem was there from day one
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:41 PM   #4962
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Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
The car came as a brand new rolling chassis. The first thing I did was I teared it down to the diff supports. Everything was checked and rebuilt and engine and electronics were installed. And the problem was there from day one
Are you using a front one way or a front diff? if using the front one way then check if the front one way bearings are working.
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:12 AM   #4963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
The car came as a brand new rolling chassis. The first thing I did was I teared it down to the diff supports. Everything was checked and rebuilt and engine and electronics were installed. And the problem was there from day one
Is the chassis cursed ? lol.....
Anyway, speaking of the front track width, I find it too narrow being 196mm.
Have you by any chance tried wider width ? Too narrow a front width may cause strange problem.
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Old 06-18-2009, 04:18 AM   #4964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
The car came as a brand new rolling chassis. The first thing I did was I teared it down to the diff supports. Everything was checked and rebuilt and engine and electronics were installed. And the problem was there from day one
I had the problem that you are describing and it was a tweaked chassis for me. The car handled fine on big tires(61/62) but on smaller tires(58/59) it sucked. Ride height was good at the front and rear but in the middle of the car it was only 2.5mm. The chassis was bowed and hitting the ground spinning the car out. Make sure the chassis is not bowing when all the braces and radio tray are tightened down.
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:13 AM   #4965
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I run 198-199 front track width.
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