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Old 10-01-2008, 07:28 PM   #4126
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For the next race im going to adapt another foam bumper... Need to make it so that the space between the bumper and the body is minimum... Longer bumper means more impact absorption and less deflection on the body in a crash
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:59 PM   #4127
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Can someone explain to me the difference between the EVO 1/0 degree blocks vs. the regular steering knuckles??? Someone has told me one of the EVO is just really the regular changed sides.... Someone enlighten me...
This is all i read about it
http://www.serpent.com/product/803212/
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:42 PM   #4128
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Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
This is all i read about it
http://www.serpent.com/product/803212/
My question is here:
These new blocks have 1mm more offset compared to the standard versions, which gives the car a more smooth steering style.


It says these new blocks have 1mm more offset compared to the standard versions... 1mm more offset of which? the 1 degree or the 0 degree?

And after figuring out which gives the most degrees... what is the effect on the car???
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Old 10-02-2008, 07:26 AM   #4129
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
My question is here:
These new blocks have 1mm more offset compared to the standard versions, which gives the car a more smooth steering style.


It says these new blocks have 1mm more offset compared to the standard versions... 1mm more offset of which? the 1 degree or the 0 degree?

And after figuring out which gives the most degrees... what is the effect on the car???
1 degre is more initial stering
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:33 AM   #4130
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The new blocks come in a 0 or 1 degree. You can choose which to buy. The 1 degree is basically similar to added 1 degree of caster.

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Old 10-02-2008, 10:30 AM   #4131
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Thanks for the reply guys...

My other question is that it also says that if you find yourself in a high traction track... you can swap the 1 degree steering blocks from left to right and right to left... How many degrees you get there?? 2?


And last question is... first steering knuckles (Non-Evo) is the same as 0 degree Evo Steering Knuckles?

Thanks for the info
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:16 AM   #4132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Thanks for the reply guys...

My other question is that it also says that if you find yourself in a high traction track... you can swap the 1 degree steering blocks from left to right and right to left... How many degrees you get there?? 2?


And last question is... first steering knuckles (Non-Evo) is the same as 0 degree Evo Steering Knuckles?

Thanks for the info
The 1 degree used flipped would be -1 and the 0 is the same as the other 0's

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Old 10-02-2008, 02:20 PM   #4133
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DJ, the initial setup that you post earlier will work for a open, high traction and bumpy track. And what advice do you have for this type of track.
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:43 PM   #4134
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DJ, the initial setup that you post earlier will work for a open, high traction and bumpy track. And what advice do you have for this type of track.

If the traction is high just disconnect the front sway bar. This will help over the bumps and also take out some caster. I use this setup everywhere to start.

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Old 10-02-2008, 03:07 PM   #4135
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Thanks for your advice DJ, these weekend I will run my new 720 on our local track in Puerto Rico.
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Old 10-02-2008, 04:45 PM   #4136
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Ok, I'm going to jump in on this one. The first thing that you have to know, is what kingpin angle is. It is the angle formed between the upper and lower pivot balls within the steering block. This is not to be confused with camber angle. It is an angle that exists within the block. In the 0 degree block, the upper ball sits directly over the lower ball and the net angle formed is zero. In the 1 degree block, the upper ball is stepped back, and forms an angle relative to the lower ball of 1 degree.

I have prepared a drawing below that illustrates the relationships between the three steering blocks. The offset, is shown on the zero degree block, and is the same between the 0 and 1 degree block. If you could snap your fingers, and instantly change from the old block to either of the new blocks, you would wind up with 2mm wider track width. 1mm each side. The new blocks hold the pivot balls 1mm closer to the chassis, so to speak. It's not about shortening the upper and lower arms, it has to do with an increase in the distance between the center of the tire and the axis formed by the pivot balls. It holds the tire farther out. Affects scrub radius.

The original block has a kingpin angle of around .5 degree, so there is no correlation between the old block and either of the new ones. Relative to swapping left for right on the 1 degree blocks, you would wind up with a 1 degree positive kingpin angle. I'm not sure that that would be a good thing.

So what does all this mean? All I can tell you is that relative to full size racing cars, the more kingpin angle, the lower the difference in tire loading side to side. The lower the angle, the greater the tire loading on the outside, and the lower the tire loading on the inside. Greater differential side to side. It is a compex relationship between kingpin, scrub radius and caster.

I know we are all looking for that magic bullet that is going to give us that super car, but these are very subtle tuning adjustments. You are not going to change one thing, and see a vast difference in the car. Good handling is a complex mix of a number of subtle settings. There is an old axiom about car tuning: Changing one thing changes everything to some degree or another.

Changing steering blocks without having good spring and tire selections, for example, is like pissing in the wind. There are way more important things to be focusing on.

Nobody wants to hear it, but for the average R/C racer, the best way to improve lap times is by improving driving skills and maintaining a tight line.

Either of the new blocks are an improvement over the old one. I would say pick one and work with it. Your base setup and overall mechanical condition of the car are far more important. Being in a pinch, and not having one or the other, I have raced the car with different blocks on each side, and I contend that you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:53 PM   #4137
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hey guys i need a little help here, what front and rear track width are u guys running on your 720, and also whats the best way of measuring it?
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:19 PM   #4138
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Originally Posted by ceaz View Post
hey guys i need a little help here, what front and rear track width are u guys running on your 720, and also whats the best way of measuring it?
you can use a hudy setup board or a digital caliper
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:54 PM   #4139
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I start with front 198 rear 199

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Old 10-02-2008, 10:08 PM   #4140
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Default less Serpent support-why?

I've noticed that Serpent is going through some changes. I'm having a hard time getting parts for it from my lhs as they no longer stock it. They tried getting parts for me from Serpent- but they too are getting the run around from Serpent in Miami.
With that said, I would like to buy the orange springs, but I'm not finding anyone selling them. Where are you guys getting your springs from. I've found many sites that sell parts, but no springs.
Any help would be great.
Thank you.
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