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Old 06-16-2008, 01:23 PM   #3721
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Hello all,
Last Saturday while preparing the car setup for the 3rd national race, I tested the Civic body. I started practising with the Stratus and at a point where the setup was at an acceptable level but not perfect yet, I switched to Civic. The lap times were improved by 0.1-0.2 and became more consistent. Therefore, I continued with Civic. The same experience had another team driver who continued with Civic too.
However, there is an issue with the EFRA rules and I would like to have your suggestions.
EFRA says that the top of the roof must be between 120mm and 170mm, measured with a 10mm spacer under the chassis.
I did the holes on the marks and I cut the body on the marked lines. I also put the wing as it is marked.
I used the default pins and plastic cups on the body posts to hold the body.
I put the rear pins on the lowest holes in the rear body posts and the front pins in the lowest holes on the front body posts. With this setup the body looks perfect seated on the car but the roof level is below the minimum 120mm. It is about 11.5mm. In order to make it compliant I used the second hole from the bottom on the rear body posts. Then the roof level was exactly at 120mm. But, the wing needed more cut to comply with the rule and the rear wheel cuts were not correct, since the body was raised by one hole on the rear. Also if the wing is put on the premarked holes then it is seated far front from the maximum allowed point, so I opened new holes about 10mm in front of the existing ones and the wing seated 4mm behind the rear bumper, while it is allowed to go 6mm more backwards for more rear stability.
Another solution for the roof level was to raise the front end by one hole on the front body posts but then the bumper was visible under the body, since it was cut on the premarked line and it should be cut lower than that.
Please let me know how you put the body on your 720s.
Thanks in advance
I use in the front all the way down in the frist hole, in the rear i put an 1/8 scale clip in the first hole and then a carbon fiber support. With this the roof is legal (120mm) The wing i use the lower line and with this setup is flush with the roof. Regarding the position, i like the one that is all the way to the front, it gives me the most steering. But is nice the fact that i have all those mm to go back if i need more rear traction
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Old 06-16-2008, 01:26 PM   #3722
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Does anyone use the red clutch shoe (803205) and if so, what is the difference between it and the yellow shoe?
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:25 PM   #3723
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Thank you Paolo.

It seems that where the rule for the 120mm roof height is applicable, the body needs to be rised from the rear body posts but then the rear wheel marked line does not match 100% and needs some attention.

//BR
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:32 PM   #3724
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Originally Posted by etgdpu View Post
Thanks mate,
I used it in the race with the rear on the second hole (from the bottom) and the front to the lowest....
Nice paintjob mate!

Here is mine, still in "virgin" state, getting ready for the Nationals at a technical track later in the year.
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Serpent 720-sscivic1.jpg   Serpent 720-sscivic2.jpg  
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:39 PM   #3725
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I have a question about the clutch setup with a Mega MF.
I used clutch gap 0.6mm, end play 0.1mm and spring (default) preload 1.6mm with a yellow shoe but the fly weights are drilled with 2 more holes, 1 3mm and 1 2.5mm.
I noticed that the car starts well but after the first meters then I have the feeling that the clutch slips and the car does not follow a linear acceleration. In the high rpm there is no problem.
I suspect that probably the gap is big and the spring is much pressed in the middle rpm, so it cannot follow linear but later in the high rpm and due to the big forces, it engages well.
What do you suggest? Any idea is appreciated.
Thanks
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:46 PM   #3726
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Nice paintjob mate!

Here is mine, still in "virgin" state, getting ready for the Nationals at a technical track later in the year.
Hi again,
Simple but nice and aggressive.
I think that you will like the Civic and I would suggest first to put your previous body on, do some laps and then put the Civic, in order to feel the difference and also time it with the transponder.
//BR
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:59 PM   #3727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etgdpu View Post
I have a question about the clutch setup with a Mega MF.
I used clutch gap 0.6mm, end play 0.1mm and spring (default) preload 1.6mm with a yellow shoe but the fly weights are drilled with 2 more holes, 1 3mm and 1 2.5mm.
I noticed that the car starts well but after the first meters then I have the feeling that the clutch slips and the car does not follow a linear acceleration. In the high rpm there is no problem.
I suspect that probably the gap is big and the spring is much pressed in the middle rpm, so it cannot follow linear but later in the high rpm and due to the big forces, it engages well.
What do you suggest? Any idea is appreciated.
Thanks

I use only MF, so i have quite some experience with them. I like the cluth this way
Std flyweigths pivoting
yellow shoe
0.8mm gap
0.2 mm end play
hard grey spring 1.8 mm (909518) preload to 1.5mm or black hard spring 1.8mm (909520) preload 1.0mm

Works good for me!
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:21 PM   #3728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paolo M View Post
I use only MF, so i have quite some experience with them. I like the cluth this way
Std flyweigths pivoting
yellow shoe
0.8mm gap
0.2 mm end play
hard grey spring 1.8 mm (909518) preload to 1.5mm or black hard spring 1.8mm (909520) preload 1.0mm

Works good for me!
Paolo, is that the same clutch setup you used at the Winternats? Watching Ray Wood's video, your car was just way out there compared to the other 720s!
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:23 PM   #3729
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Originally Posted by etgdpu View Post
Hi again,
Simple but nice and aggressive.
I think that you will like the Civic and I would suggest first to put your previous body on, do some laps and then put the Civic, in order to feel the difference and also time it with the transponder.
//BR
Thanks mate, that's the idea ... aggressive ... hisssssss!

I'll do your suggestion and put on my other shells first and then the Civic.
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:51 AM   #3730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paolo M View Post
I use only MF, so i have quite some experience with them. I like the cluth this way
Std flyweigths pivoting
yellow shoe
0.8mm gap
0.2 mm end play
hard grey spring 1.8 mm (909518) preload to 1.5mm or black hard spring 1.8mm (909520) preload 1.0mm

Works good for me!
Thanks Paolo,
I will try it and share the results.
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Old 06-18-2008, 04:29 PM   #3731
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Quick question
Before i use the setup station on the car. I have to set the ride
height. I never used the green setup wheels without the tires that
came in the serpent kit. And my friend says he uses that to set his ride
height in his NT1.
How u do it?
I basically use a new set of tires. Is that the purpose of the green
wheels? Wouldnt his way be inaccurate?
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:54 AM   #3732
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Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
Quick question
Before i use the setup station on the car. I have to set the ride
height. I never used the green setup wheels without the tires that
came in the serpent kit. And my friend says he uses that to set his ride
height in his NT1.
How u do it?
I basically use a new set of tires. Is that the purpose of the green
wheels? Wouldnt his way be inaccurate?
Maybe for track width but definitely not for ride height. The foam diameter differs after every run depending on tire wear which will deem the idea of setting up ride height with the naked wheels useless. Unless of course your friend has a set ride height and uses the same diameter brand new trued tires every run. I'd stick with how you would normally do it.
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:12 AM   #3733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spurgear View Post
Quick question
Before i use the setup station on the car. I have to set the ride
height. I never used the green setup wheels without the tires that
came in the serpent kit. And my friend says he uses that to set his ride
height in his NT1.
How u do it?
I basically use a new set of tires. Is that the purpose of the green
wheels? Wouldnt his way be inaccurate?
The purpose behind setting the car with the smallest tyre diameter possible is for tyre wear. Basically you set the car with the minimum ride height possible to be driven on, so that when tyres are worn down, you are able to continue racing even on rims! (which you shouldn't anyway. :P)

But your friends method is not innaccurate, just a different method. (Preparation for a long main event.)
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:10 AM   #3734
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hi guys

Anyone tried the new centax? What is the advantage of this new centax.

regards

Eduardo
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:56 AM   #3735
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hi guys

Anyone tried the new centax? What is the advantage of this new centax.

regards

Eduardo
As the WC stands for Wide Contact, we are able to better transfer power from the engine to the drivetrain. .12 Engines have come along way in power since the LC gearbox was released way back when from the previous sedans. With a wider contact patch, it provides less wear, and also since the teeth are shaped differently (better definition), they meshes better. With the new clutch and spur set, you get the same engagement and same feel, just a better lifespan on your gearbox.

Definitely a necessary option for your 720!
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