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Old 01-16-2008, 04:51 PM   #3256
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Default RE: Setup Sheets

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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
thanks but i mean setup sheets that are filled out from racers.
Yo Dude,

Too bad I'm unable to attach the adobe setup files here as the file size exceeds the limits here. U may download it from the site I mentioned earlier. There are total 3 drivers filled setup sheets there.

Cheers,
Raymond Chan
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:33 AM   #3257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fly_wheel View Post
i've fixed brake pad... everything on default again except some (shown below)now... the tail still slip out but more controlable now...

2 degree toe out front
2 degree camber front
3 degree toe in front
3 degree camber rear
both front n rear belt at loose tension (new belt)
tyres 37 shore front n rear
all default parts
front locked diff (spool)
bearings r ok
aluminium center shaft mount
aluminium upper deck bracket
front n rear anti roll bar at softest
red springs all around
front 5mm rear 6mm ride height
shocks setting default
engine JP FX T-03
pipe 5.2mm
protoform nemesis body
roll center front highest hole
roll center rear lowest hole
rear diff oil 40,000

i tried my friend's car with below setting

3 degree toe out front
2 degree camber front
3 degree toe in front
4 degree camber rear
both front n rear belt at loose tension (new belt)
tyres 40 shore front n rear
all default parts
front one way
bearings r ok
aluminium center shaft mount
aluminium upper deck bracket
front n rear anti roll bar at softest
front blue springs
rear red springs
front 5mm rear 6mm ride height
shocks setting default
rear diff oil 30,000


the track grip is medium/low

my friend's car has better overall grip n doesn't spin out much compare to mine even though his car is very bumpy...

i really will like to solve my mysterious problem... i had severals much much better drivers/racers looked into my car but they had no idea wat's worng with my car...

Flywheel I would like you to know that your not alone!!! There were 2 racers here in Ontario with the same problem as you. Myself and another Racer James Mak have been racing the Serpent since the 710 and have learned alot. At one of the last races(during our nitro season) my car was pretty dialed so I began to work on one of the racers cars that was squirly. I did everything to this chassis put the exact same setup as mine everything and nothing solved the issue you and he had/has.

Eventually that driver gave up and sold his 720 as well did the other driver 1 week later being frustrated.

This lead me to a few conclusions after we had tried everything.

1. Rebuild your Shocks - The Serpent is very finichy about suspension and relies heavily on them, I noticed that improper shock builds our leaked oil out of a shock drastically effected the car more so then any other chassis i have driven or had

I found that for med-med-high traction smooth to little bumpy 45-50wt oil 3hole FR, 2Hole R worked best. I personally Ran 45wt and depending on track conditions changed between red and yellow springs(didnt change much)

2. Check for Binding - Go over the entire car and I mean go over it entirely. Make sure there is absolutely no binding in any of the pivot balls, ball ends every moving part should move freely. I noticed that the serpent requires alot of fit and finish when it comes to this but it is generally a 1 time deal. If you have polising paste, polish all the ball ends on all of the suspension. Make sure the pivot balls in the suspension dont bind the slightest. Every rebuild I do I spend atlest 1-2 hours checking binding and free movement of parts.

3. Rebuild the car - If all of the above is perfect there is something wrong, because James and I actually find the car to stable, and am always trying to dial more steering in it, while others are having a completely different problem.

A good rebuild may do the trick seems like alot of wasted energy but it may work.

Just know that your not alone, I have seen the issue you have and driven it, and its frustrating as hell. But there is a reason for it and its just trying to figure it out. Here is a link to my setup for our local track maybe you can find something in it you like.

http://www.fastcats.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2720
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Old 01-17-2008, 12:07 PM   #3258
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MY SKIN IS BURNING, but I will try to help lol. Check to see if your running drag brake... so power on your radio and push the car.. if it doesn't roll freely.. dial out some drag brake on the brake arm. also CHECK YOUR CORNER WEIGHTS. Almost every time one of the kids at my track has a crazy handling car, its either binding suspension, their droop screws are all crazy, or they are running a shite load of drag brake. check for bad bearings too...

-Patrick "skin is burning" B
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:02 PM   #3259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raychan View Post
Yo Dude,

Too bad I'm unable to attach the adobe setup files here as the file size exceeds the limits here. U may download it from the site I mentioned earlier. There are total 3 drivers filled setup sheets there.

Cheers,
Raymond Chan
thanks, i'll have to check them out.
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:23 AM   #3260
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Default tyre split

how much tyre split do u guys usually run?
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Old 01-18-2008, 03:40 AM   #3261
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how much tyre split do u guys usually run?
Depends but for 5 mins qualifying I like to run 1mm to 1.5mm (if the track wears more). Note that my setup is always with the fronts one setting softer than the rears.
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:47 PM   #3262
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thanks
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:55 AM   #3263
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thanks morgan & all for the replies...

i've swap my shocks with another friend's 720 n my car is much much stable now... my shocks don't have any leaking n shocks oil is still in... n my shocks all seems good, but i'll just rebuild it n try again... i've bought the sponges for the shocks... the track is kinda bumpy, but with sugar treatment, it'll grip much better... i guess i'll run default shock setting ie. oil, shocks piston 3 holes... i'm running red springs front n yellow rear... n change rear diff oil to 20,000... i'll try running front one way n front diff with 30,000 oil to try if it'll improve... thanks for all n the car can really be driven now, i'll spend some more time to find the sweet setting... after months of frustating play n parts... no binding parts now but the rear lower arms pin has some free play with the rear block, so shims r added... so i can now really smile... thanks...
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:20 AM   #3264
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Hey Flywheel

No problem, I am as interested in finding what the issue was/is as you are as some racers are experiencing that same issues you have.

You may want to take the OneWay out its really only beneficial for wide open tracks with long-med sweeping corners. Learn the front Diff, I run mostly on a tight high traction track and the diff is the only way to go, the diff is really the best choice especially for shorter tracks the oneway will add steering but no brakes! and overall is less cconsistent then the front diff.

Heres the track we race on http://www.fastcats.ca/paintingbackalley.htm

I actually run my diffs really light in oilwt i find for me it increases steering and response. Stick to the diff and stay away from the one-way and spool.

If the shock sare what really made the difference check the shock length for each rear and front shocks the distance from the bottom of the shock body(with platic cap on) to the inside of the ball cup(where it threads in) these should be identical for both Fr &Rr if there is a difference in length this will also really affect handling. Also you may have built the RCC shocks with Air bubbles in them. When you rebuild them make sure u let them sit still for atleast 10 minutes with and without the shock shaft in them before you tighten the cap fully. The RCC shocks I find are hard to bleed because you cant actually see if all the air bubbles have escaped.
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Old 01-19-2008, 08:56 AM   #3265
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guys dont listen to morgan, he`s wallys best friend!!!!!!!!!!, all talk
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Old 01-19-2008, 09:03 AM   #3266
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well i finally got my new 720....can,t wait to try it out.....after i get it assembled...
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:49 PM   #3267
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well i finally got my new 720....can,t wait to try it out.....after i get it assembled...
you speedworld guys and your 720's lol
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:28 PM   #3268
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Hi guys,
Just want to know what do you think about this idea:
We run anticlockwise on our track. Some of the guys use different shore value foams on the same axle, like this:
Front left 35 shore
Front right 40 shore
Rear left 40 shore
Rear right 45 shore
The explanation to this is that the right wheels are wearing more therefore it is a good idea to put harder foam there in order to get the same wear during the run.
What do you think about this?
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:32 PM   #3269
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I do it, I don't often end up using a harder front on the high wear side. Its usually like Front 38, LR 45, RR 40... the front tires usually hold up pretty well.. the rears get abused more.. The fronts are actually a lot harder tire.. so they don't chunk or wear as fast.. It all depends on the track. Try running what your normal tire setup would be. Measure tire wear.. and make a choice from there... But it isn't a bad practice...
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Old 01-19-2008, 06:04 PM   #3270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oze View Post
Hi guys,
Just want to know what do you think about this idea:
We run anticlockwise on our track. Some of the guys use different shore value foams on the same axle, like this:
Front left 35 shore
Front right 40 shore
Rear left 40 shore
Rear right 45 shore
The explanation to this is that the right wheels are wearing more therefore it is a good idea to put harder foam there in order to get the same wear during the run.
What do you think about this?
Ur car will run in a very funny way.
Unpredictable steering at corner entry and exit

Cheers
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