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Old 06-21-2007, 08:03 PM   #2611
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Default Ackerman

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Originally Posted by lroy View Post
Could some one tell me what the different adjustments on the adj. Ackerman do to the handling of the 720
Thanks
lroy

Any one ?

I like to know what positions does what.
Thanks
Lroy

Any one

I would like to know which position ( inner outer forward back ) does what

thanks
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Old 06-22-2007, 07:46 AM   #2612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lroy View Post
Could some one tell me what the different adjustments on the adj. Ackerman do to the handling of the 720
Thanks
lroy

Any one ?

I like to know what positions does what.
Thanks
Lroy
More Ackerman Forward holes on the servo saver = Steering response will be smoother and the car will react smoother to any steering input.

Less Ackerman Back holes on the servo saver = Initial steering response will be quicker and the car will react faster.

I like running as much Ackerman as possible. Itís a pretty easy change to make so play around with it to see what you like better.
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Old 06-22-2007, 09:36 AM   #2613
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Thanks guys I know no what the purpose of the third oneway is.
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Old 06-22-2007, 01:26 PM   #2614
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Originally Posted by revo12 View Post
Thanks guys I know no what the purpose of the third oneway is.
In a long run/final rear tyres wear faster than front, hence become smaller. They will need to turn faster than fronts so 3rd one-way allows that to happen.
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Old 06-23-2007, 07:56 AM   #2615
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Well guys it seems the new topic is the third one way. Well in my opinion the car should be overdrived in the front to allow the mid oneway to work properly throughout a long run. I personally have different setups for qualifying than I do for racing. I have setup many cars to have success and they are all different from quals to race. To give you guys an idea as to what I mean I will talk about it...

First in the engines: The cars must start a a temp that is a bit cooler that would be for qualifying becuase the car generate so much heat that the cars actually stay hot and make the engine hotter via the chassis staying hot and all the metal in the car. The clutch also has to be a little more forgiving so the car has a wider range. We are all human and concentrating on the car changes as the race goes on and after the 3rd pit stop most people start to wander in their mind and think of other things and start to make mistakes so making the clutch smoother and more forgiving gives the driver a long race setup....

The Chassis: One thing I do differently from racing to qaulifying is Diff oil and rear suspension. In qualifying I run a hard diff oil in the rear and in racing I run a softer oil. If I run a 40k or 50k oil in the qualifiers I try to run a softer oil like 25k or 30k which makes the car easier to drive in a long race. I also run a softer spring when I run a harder oil. It is a little backwards. If the oil is thicker I run a softer rear spring. If I run a thinner I run a harder spring. Some times a spring change is not needed but I wanted to state that so everyone understands.

The third one ways is a driver preference and gives you as a racer more options. I have not found the car to be faster for me in my trials. I set my cars to have a lot of steering. I come from an electric background so I rive with the throttle so sometimes I run a little drag brake. Most guys who run gas never run drag brake. I have my brake turned way down and then run the drag brake. So If I run the mid one way the I wold not be able to take advantage of its effect. With a mid one way you can set the car to have more brakes than a front one way but never as much brake as a solid axle and standard diff with no mid one way. It would depend on the track and how it flows on which setup you would use finally.

Tires: I always use a different tire front to rear. Usually 40F 45R... 35F 40R..... 38F 42R..... If that is to much steering than run a smaller split.. 38F40R...
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Old 06-23-2007, 07:56 AM   #2616
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Well guys it seems the new topic is the third one way. Well in my opinion the car should be overdrived in the front to allow the mid oneway to work properly throughout a long run. I personally have different setups for qualifying than I do for racing. I have setup many cars to have success and they are all different from quals to race. To give you guys an idea as to what I mean I will talk about it...

First in the engines: The cars must start a a temp that is a bit cooler that would be for qualifying becuase the car generate so much heat that the cars actually stay hot and make the engine hotter via the chassis staying hot and all the metal in the car. The clutch also has to be a little more forgiving so the car has a wider range. We are all human and concentrating on the car changes as the race goes on and after the 3rd pit stop most people start to wander in their mind and think of other things and start to make mistakes so making the clutch smoother and more forgiving gives the driver a long race setup....

The Chassis: One thing I do differently from racing to qaulifying is Diff oil and rear suspension. In qualifying I run a hard diff oil in the rear and in racing I run a softer oil. If I run a 40k or 50k oil in the qualifiers I try to run a softer oil like 25k or 30k which makes the car easier to drive in a long race. I also run a softer spring when I run a harder oil. It is a little backwards. If the oil is thicker I run a softer rear spring. If I run a thinner I run a harder spring. Some times a spring change is not needed but I wanted to state that so everyone understands.

The third one ways is a driver preference and gives you as a racer more options. I have not found the car to be faster for me in my trials. I set my cars to have a lot of steering. I come from an electric background so I rive with the throttle so sometimes I run a little drag brake. Most guys who run gas never run drag brake. I have my brake turned way down and then run the drag brake. So If I run the mid one way the I wold not be able to take advantage of its effect. With a mid one way you can set the car to have more brakes than a front one way but never as much brake as a solid axle and standard diff with no mid one way. It would depend on the track and how it flows on which setup you would use finally.

Tires: I always use a different tire front to rear. Usually 40F 45R... 35F 40R..... 38F 42R..... If that is to much steering than run a smaller split.. 38F40R...
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Old 06-23-2007, 02:51 PM   #2617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangulo View Post
Well guys it seems the new topic is the third one way. Well in my opinion the car should be overdrived in the front to allow the mid oneway to work properly throughout a long run. I personally have different setups for qualifying than I do for racing. I have setup many cars to have success and they are all different from quals to race. To give you guys an idea as to what I mean I will talk about it...

First in the engines: The cars must start a a temp that is a bit cooler that would be for qualifying becuase the car generate so much heat that the cars actually stay hot and make the engine hotter via the chassis staying hot and all the metal in the car. The clutch also has to be a little more forgiving so the car has a wider range. We are all human and concentrating on the car changes as the race goes on and after the 3rd pit stop most people start to wander in their mind and think of other things and start to make mistakes so making the clutch smoother and more forgiving gives the driver a long race setup....
Very interesting and thanks for sharing this. I used to richen my engine slightly before a main but I just seem to forget these days and in my last two Nationals, my engine cut mainly due to overheating.

Quote:
The Chassis: One thing I do differently from racing to qaulifying is Diff oil and rear suspension. In qualifying I run a hard diff oil in the rear and in racing I run a softer oil. If I run a 40k or 50k oil in the qualifiers I try to run a softer oil like 25k or 30k which makes the car easier to drive in a long race. I also run a softer spring when I run a harder oil. It is a little backwards. If the oil is thicker I run a softer rear spring. If I run a thinner I run a harder spring. Some times a spring change is not needed but I wanted to state that so everyone understands.
This is a good point ... mains a longer and so an easier car would help tremendously.

Quote:
The third one ways is a driver preference and gives you as a racer more options. I have not found the car to be faster for me in my trials. I set my cars to have a lot of steering. I come from an electric background so I rive with the throttle so sometimes I run a little drag brake. Most guys who run gas never run drag brake. I have my brake turned way down and then run the drag brake. So If I run the mid one way the I wold not be able to take advantage of its effect. With a mid one way you can set the car to have more brakes than a front one way but never as much brake as a solid axle and standard diff with no mid one way. It would depend on the track and how it flows on which setup you would use finally.
I found that first you need decent traction. Does not have to be high but for sure medium-high and the 3rd one-way is best for me. The track layout is definitely an important factor ... the 3rd one-way is advantageous only on certain layouts I think. Well, its my own personal "feel" mainly because I've only tried it on two different tracks/layout.


Quote:
Tires: I always use a different tire front to rear. Usually 40F 45R... 35F 40R..... 38F 42R..... If that is to much steering than run a smaller split.. 38F40R...
Are running the 18t conversion? If so are you saying then instead of running a 3mm split you would go to 1mm just to reduce steering?
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:39 PM   #2618
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Sow&Steady- When I refer to the split I was talking about the difference in shore. Instead of a 35Shore front with a 40 shore rear I would run a 38shore front with a 40 shore rear. This also makes the car easier to drive. I try to run a 1-1.5 mm split front to rear. In qualifying I write down my tire wear at different times throughout the day and measure it. I keep this in my notes for later to use in the race.... I have never run the 18t conversion. In my car the only options I have on the car were the top deck mount in Aluminum and the skyline rear link mount. This is before the Serpent SDD came out...

I hope that helps!
Rafael
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Old 06-23-2007, 06:43 PM   #2619
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The 720 07' is full race capable especially since most tracks we now use the plastic top deck brace. We have lots of things we do but it all depends on the conditions you race in. Wear,temp, traction, layout and altitude all effect the car and makes one car look fast and others look just O.K......
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:31 AM   #2620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangulo View Post
Sow&Steady- When I refer to the split I was talking about the difference in shore. Instead of a 35Shore front with a 40 shore rear I would run a 38shore front with a 40 shore rear. This also makes the car easier to drive. I try to run a 1-1.5 mm split front to rear. In qualifying I write down my tire wear at different times throughout the day and measure it. I keep this in my notes for later to use in the race.... I have never run the 18t conversion. In my car the only options I have on the car were the top deck mount in Aluminum and the skyline rear link mount. This is before the Serpent SDD came out...

I hope that helps!
Rafael
Ah right, the shores.

Well, one of my 720 is still completely stock, not even Ti screws and its really good.

The other one now has the LCG chassis. Tried it yesterday but can't fully evaluate it because it was drizzling when I got to the track so there was hardly any traction even when the drizzle stopped. I'm using the al. bracket for the top deck with the LCG.
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Old 06-24-2007, 08:06 PM   #2621
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Default CENTAX SET UP

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Originally Posted by dj apolaro View Post
I did not, but Paolo did. Maybe he can give his opinion. He did end up running the solid.
Hi DJ, what was the set up you used in the centax, spring type, shoe type, etc.

RCPANAMA
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:03 AM   #2622
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Originally Posted by Sow&Steady View Post
Ah right, the shores.

Well, one of my 720 is still completely stock, not even Ti screws and its really good.

The other one now has the LCG chassis. Tried it yesterday but can't fully evaluate it because it was drizzling when I got to the track so there was hardly any traction even when the drizzle stopped. I'm using the al. bracket for the top deck with the LCG.
Hi Sow & Steady:

Can you please let me know a good manufactor of TI screws for s720? Moreover, can you give some tips on eliminate weight on 720?

regards

Eduardo
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:03 AM   #2623
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Originally Posted by rcpanama View Post
Hi DJ, what was the set up you used in the centax, spring type, shoe type, etc.

RCPANAMA
Stock fly weights, yellow shoe, 1.8 serpent spring, .8 gap.... Hope this helps. Remember guys a good motor is no good without a good clutch.

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Old 06-25-2007, 08:12 AM   #2624
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Hi julius. can you post your setup and tips of your car when you visited us here at jp race tracks. tnx
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Old 06-25-2007, 04:05 PM   #2625
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Originally Posted by eduardo_garcia View Post
Hi Sow & Steady:

Can you please let me know a good manufactor of TI screws for s720? Moreover, can you give some tips on eliminate weight on 720?

regards

Eduardo
Eudardo, any manufacturer will be fine .. I bought mine a long time ago for the 710 and now I use them in the 720. Are you sure you want to do this? You can go crazy you know ...

OK, if you insist, here are the things you can do :-

- LiPo battery (I've used the VXR in the 710 and therefore it fits the 720)
- use the LCG chassis (not the SPP)
- change the main shaft to a Ti one
- use an Al one for the mid-shaft
- DO NOT use any Al pulleys or the radio bracket, or the front ARB holder
- change all screws to Ti of course
- change all ball joints to Ti ones
- don't use the roll-over handle
- use teflon adjusting nuts
- don't use the radio cover, use only the bracket and tape your Rx to it
- use ceramic bearings
- the lightweight version of pulley adapters
- use carbon pivot pins (you can't buy these ready made though)
- use Al brake disc (or a carbon fibre one)
- use Ti or Al turnbuckles
- use rear ball diff with ceramic balls (not geared diff)
- use a locked front one-way
- use a smaller/lighter heatsink on your engine
- use Futaba 9550 servos
- use ONE coat of paint on your shell!

Of course there's more but when I did most of the above to my 710, I got it down to under 1400gms, with PT, small tyres, no fuel and no shell on which is illegal for normal racing.

OK, OK, I used Al screws for those phillip head ones.

If you are racing on ROAR/IFMAR/EFRA rules and only want get the car to just about legal, I find that just with the LiPo and Ti screws, the 720 is already under 1725gms (with PT, tyres and shell).

I hate to do this because they caused me no end of aggro in the past but RC Mushroom has tons of Ti/Al bits you can choose from. (p/s: sorry, I got lazy and just used "titanium" in the search so you'll see other parts which are NOT actually ti, just ti colour.)

Lastly, I like Speedmind Ti screws, their heads seem to last longer than the Take-Off and Xenon Racing ones.
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