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Old 11-03-2006, 04:11 PM   #1576
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Originally Posted by bigboss
cheers matey
i'll try it tomoz wen i get myself some new oil
wasted all of it trying
bigboss
No problem man, I hope the steps help....
By the way, on step #3 I initially said to partially turn it 3 turns (now edited for clarification). Well, I turn it 3 times but technically it's only about 1 and a half turns. Just thought I'd make that clear because you don't want the retainer to be all the way closed to let the excess oil out .
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Old 11-04-2006, 03:43 AM   #1577
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Originally Posted by Serpentd
Thank you for the info dude. I talked to Doug at Serpent USA and he's sending me the updated arms, but I can't seem to find those Mugen upgrade pivot balls to save my soul. Can you point in the right direction please. I like your approach to this problem. Thanks bro!

Hi

Sorry for the late reply but I have been hectic at work...

Anyway, I think 3Racing and KFactory make thes upgrade pivotballs for both Mugen and Serpent.

I got the Mugen ones cos I didn't want to take any chances... slightest toutch on the rear and I loose my toe in... can't have that in a race

The Mugen pivot ball is slightly longer and slightly wider, so it makes for a tighter fit. The only difference is that the ball part is smaller than the serpent one.. so you got to tighten derlin screws in a little more, thats it

Either way, whether you use the Mugen ones or the Serpent ones, you should be fine - Serpent sorted this issue out with all the new kits

The nice thing about going with the upgrade pivot balls is that they are lighter in weight than the original ones...

Hope this helps...

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Old 11-04-2006, 03:51 AM   #1578
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Default Serpent S720

Hi Guys

S720.... what is this.. can't find info on mytsn as well...

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Acid
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Old 11-04-2006, 04:14 AM   #1579
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Hi Guys

One more question:

Have any of you had problems with the front lower bumper (plastic part that connects to the chassis). I have broken 3 of these, already. The part seems to be weak... or is just my driving

Thought about trying the LM Type bumper to solve this problem... has anyone tried the LM Type bumper?

Thanks

Acid
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:49 AM   #1580
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if barriers are hit, parts are broken...

wouldnt you rather have like a 5 dollar part BREAK rather than having a 100 dollar chassis be damaged?


just avoid the walls my friend!
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:56 AM   #1581
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Originally Posted by nigelnuggets
if barriers are hit, parts are broken...

wouldnt you rather have like a 5 dollar part BREAK rather than having a 100 dollar chassis be damaged?


just avoid the walls my friend!
I agree

But, its not from barriers... its more from rear ending and trying pass

And, to be honest, coming from the 710... the 720 is exceptionally strong...

That was the only part I broke on the car

Thanks

Acid
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Old 11-04-2006, 08:59 AM   #1582
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Hi Guys

Can anyone recommend a good charger/discharger?

Thinking of getting the Triton2 - anyone using this? Reason for this, is that it also charges lead acid batteries.

Thanks

Acid
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Old 11-04-2006, 09:41 AM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid
Hi Guys

One more question:

Have any of you had problems with the front lower bumper (plastic part that connects to the chassis). I have broken 3 of these, already. The part seems to be weak... or is just my driving

Thought about trying the LM Type bumper to solve this problem... has anyone tried the LM Type bumper?

Thanks

Acid

I've switch to the LM type bumper with the old 710 foam on top of it.
never had any issue anymore, of course I've always try to avoid hitting anything.
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Old 11-04-2006, 10:02 AM   #1584
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Originally Posted by Acid
Hi Guys

Can anyone recommend a good charger/discharger?

Thinking of getting the Triton2 - anyone using this? Reason for this, is that it also charges lead acid batteries.

Thanks

Acid
Triton 2 is a very good charger, I have the original Triton and it charges any kind of rechargeable batteries including gell cell/lead acid.
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Old 11-04-2006, 12:38 PM   #1585
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The bumper is not the strongest to avoid chassis tweak. Don't get me wrong though as I've only replaced mine once after a radio hit and my car went straight to the wall. The bumper cracked in the middle and had to be replaced but I checked the chassis after the accident and it's still perfect. If the bumper was bulletproof, a head on collision could result in a tweak chassis that could be more expensive to fix.

Regarding the pivot balls, the Serpent pivot balls are the lightest available. The initial run of rear arms had issue that caused rear toe problems after a hit (this was sorted out right away with the factory even replacing them for free). There is nothing wrong with the pivot balls at all.
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Old 11-04-2006, 06:45 PM   #1586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acid
Hi Guys

One more question:

Have any of you had problems with the front lower bumper (plastic part that connects to the chassis). I have broken 3 of these, already. The part seems to be weak... or is just my driving

Thought about trying the LM Type bumper to solve this problem... has anyone tried the LM Type bumper?

Thanks

Acid
I changed mine to the LM bumper and just used a bench sander to take it down to the same profile as the foam but giving 3mm of clearance for the foam bumper to soak up any impact. You will notice if you look at the LM bumper compared to the original that where it mounts to the chassis there is substantially more material.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:15 AM   #1587
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hey guys, just wondered if you guys could help
my 720 is pretty much on default set up, bsides yellow springs and suspension on the back is more incline, (more angle)

i just seem to always lose my rear especially on exit of corner, cant put down full power or it will spin

any advice thanks
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:48 AM   #1588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboss
hey guys, just wondered if you guys could help
my 720 is pretty much on default set up, bsides yellow springs and suspension on the back is more incline, (more angle)

i just seem to always lose my rear especially on exit of corner, cant put down full power or it will spin

any advice thanks

Try using a lighter diff oil. Also more toe-in might help.
are you sure the yellow springs in the rear aren't too soft? The chassis might be hitting the bottom....
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:15 AM   #1589
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Without knowing what track you're running on and also what traction you have, I tend to agree with Cyclops, your rear on yellow is too soft. The softest you run on foams should normally be red.
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:27 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboss
hey guys, just wondered if you guys could help
my 720 is pretty much on default set up, bsides yellow springs and suspension on the back is more incline, (more angle)

i just seem to always lose my rear especially on exit of corner, cant put down full power or it will spin

any advice thanks
I'm running on low/mid traction. Only difference from the base setup is .5 degree more rear toe, 10000 rear diff oil and long ackerman arm.
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