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Old 08-19-2019, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
This is my first time of assembling a centax clutch after nearly 15 years of intermission. As I am assembling the 6R centax. on a Novarossi Mito 9, I found that for clutch gap with no shim the max I could get is only 0.4mm, can never get near to 0.6 mm as stated in the instructions at all. I did took out one of the clutch bearings and pressed the clutch bell all the way onto the shoes. I checked the thrust bearing orientation and it was right (heck I even put the bigger hole side of the trust bearing to the outside for a try). I disassembled and reassembled everything again, made sure the cone on the crankshaft was all the way touching the front crankshaft bearing, still no chance to make the clutch gap more than 0.4mm. I noticed there is a gap of about 1.5mm from the flywheel to the front crankshaft bearing. At the end, I managed to shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of around 0.2mm.

My question is, must the clutch gap be 0.6mm first, and then shim the whole assembly to make it axial play of 0.2mm? or its fine that so long as in the end the axial play is 0.2mm while the clutch bell could spin freely? Do I need to trim down the cone washer on the crankshaft to lessen the gap between the flywheel/front crankshaft bearing and to make the clutch gap to at least 0.6mm, and then shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of 0.2mm?

Thanks
Gap and axial play are 2 different things.
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Old 08-19-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
This is my first time of assembling a centax clutch after nearly 15 years of intermission. As I am assembling the 6R centax. on a Novarossi Mito 9, I found that for clutch gap with no shim the max I could get is only 0.4mm, can never get near to 0.6 mm as stated in the instructions at all. I did took out one of the clutch bearings and pressed the clutch bell all the way onto the shoes. I checked the thrust bearing orientation and it was right (heck I even put the bigger hole side of the trust bearing to the outside for a try). I disassembled and reassembled everything again, made sure the cone on the crankshaft was all the way touching the front crankshaft bearing, still no chance to make the clutch gap more than 0.4mm. I noticed there is a gap of about 1.5mm from the flywheel to the front crankshaft bearing. At the end, I managed to shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of around 0.2mm.

My question is, must the clutch gap be 0.6mm first, and then shim the whole assembly to make it axial play of 0.2mm? or its fine that so long as in the end the axial play is 0.2mm while the clutch bell could spin freely? Do I need to trim down the cone washer on the crankshaft to lessen the gap between the flywheel/front crankshaft bearing and to make the clutch gap to at least 0.6mm, and then shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of 0.2mm?

Thanks
A good instruction:


If you can not set a gap of 0.6mm or larger and there is a uge gap between the engine and fly wheel you can try another cone for the flywheel or just shave the cone a bit shorter just by rubbing the wide side over a piece of sandpaper.
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:45 AM
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Question, if your clutch gap is set at .6 and your axial play is at .1 or .2 should the clutch gap (after axial adjustment) be at around .4? Because you measure clutch gap with the clutch bell resting on the clutch pad, and then adjust axial play by getting slightly off the clutch pad. Does this make sense??
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Old 08-23-2019, 11:04 AM
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It depends on whch side you shim to get the gap.
Salven its video is one way and the most secure as I also do.

The other way is put as much shims agains the fly wheel nut untill the clutch bell does not touch the shoe anymore. Then add an 0.5mm shim to it, mount the clutch bell and place as much shims as needed on top of the clutch and leave 0.1mm play.
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:09 AM
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After bringing the engine with the clutch assembly to the track to seek help, the verdict is that somehow the cone washer that came with my Novarossi Mito 9 doesnít match that of the flywheel ie the slant part of the cone doesnít match the shape of the hole of the flywheel, the flywheel doesnít sit as close to the front engine bearing as it should be, thatís why there is a huge gap of over 1.5mm between the flywheel and the front engine bearing, therefore the whole crankshaft after securing the flywheel left less space than normal. Tried to put on a slant cone for the novarossi .12, which is shorter than that of the 21 by 2mm, and still the gap between the flywheel and the front bearing is the same big gap. Ultimately, I found some shims that I used to shim out the play on the sus pins of electric touring cars which is 3x5 that could fit to the inside hole of the clutch bell bearings, and put it underneath the shaft that sits the trust bearing, effectively lengthened the crankshaft, in order to make clutch gap of 0.6. After that, I put on all the clutch bell bearings and put shims on top of the clutch nut to have a play of 0.1

later I assembled the Shepard centax on a Reds engine, doesnt have the same problem as that flywheel only have a tiny gap with the front engine bearing, and I had to put loads of shims to make the clutch gap 0.6, and this further proves that the 6r flywheel doesnít sit as deep as it should be on the novarossi cone
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:25 AM
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Just shave off some material of the cone.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:30 PM
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Clutch- Went through a few thrust bearings getting it right. Yes, there are many different cones out there. Iíd have to measure, but the flywheel is maybe 1mm off the case which is perfect. I also found that w/o the proper clearance, the thrust bearing spits out all the grease. Now that I have dialed, (knock on wood) it appears to be built-proof.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Devlin View Post
Clutch- Went through a few thrust bearings getting it right. Yes, there are many different cones out there. Iíd have to measure, but the flywheel is maybe 1mm off the case which is perfect. I also found that w/o the proper clearance, the thrust bearing spits out all the grease. Now that I have dialed, (knock on wood) it appears to be built-proof.
What?? How much grease are you putting on your thrust bearing? it does not require a lot of grease. Minimal high quality grease goes a long ways.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Devlin View Post
Clutch- Went through a few thrust bearings getting it right. Yes, there are many different cones out there. I’d have to measure, but the flywheel is maybe 1mm off the case which is perfect. I also found that w/o the proper clearance, the thrust bearing spits out all the grease. Now that I have dialed, (knock on wood) it appears to be built-proof.
How much grease are you putting on your thrust bearing? it does not require a lot of grease. Minimal high quality grease goes a long ways.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan View Post
How much grease are you putting on your thrust bearing? it does not require a lot of grease. Minimal high quality grease goes a long ways.
could have been the grease, but seemed more like adjustments. Iím new to 1/8th, so Iím sure Iíve made mistakes.
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Old 08-25-2019, 10:58 PM
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You do need a little bit of endplay to deal with the expansion of the clutch bell when getting heat, too much play will give huge slamming forces on the thrust bearing. And also check the if you put it in the right way, 1 disc has a larger hole than the other.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by blackshark3 View Post
This is my first time of assembling a centax clutch after nearly 15 years of intermission. As I am assembling the 6R centax. on a Novarossi Mito 9, I found that for clutch gap with no shim the max I could get is only 0.4mm, can never get near to 0.6 mm as stated in the instructions at all. I did took out one of the clutch bearings and pressed the clutch bell all the way onto the shoes. I checked the thrust bearing orientation and it was right (heck I even put the bigger hole side of the trust bearing to the outside for a try). I disassembled and reassembled everything again, made sure the cone on the crankshaft was all the way touching the front crankshaft bearing, still no chance to make the clutch gap more than 0.4mm. I noticed there is a gap of about 1.5mm from the flywheel to the front crankshaft bearing. At the end, I managed to shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of around 0.2mm.

My question is, must the clutch gap be 0.6mm first, and then shim the whole assembly to make it axial play of 0.2mm? or its fine that so long as in the end the axial play is 0.2mm while the clutch bell could spin freely? Do I need to trim down the cone washer on the crankshaft to lessen the gap between the flywheel/front crankshaft bearing and to make the clutch gap to at least 0.6mm, and then shim the whole assembly to make an axial play of 0.2mm?

Thanks
Find the cone/collet from Mugen. It's 5.5 mil. It is much shorter than the stock one that comes with Nova engines which are 7mm.
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Pooh2 View Post
Find the cone/collet from Mugen. It's 5.5 mil. It is much shorter than the stock one that comes with Nova engines which are 7mm.
does that mugen collet come in the mrx6r kit?
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:00 PM
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has there been any talks of a new car? i mean the velox and serpent got an update, is the mugen getting an update also?
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
has there been any talks of a new car? i mean the velox and serpent got an update, is the mugen getting an update also?
I think the 6R came out last May so I don't think any new upgrades or new car from Mugen will be out any time soon and there shouldn't be ....... the 6R doesn't need anything to make it any better.
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