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Flash point pistons info

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Flash point pistons info

Old 07-01-2017, 09:06 AM
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Default Flash point pistons info

Hallo
Can i have info on flash point pistons ?
It s good or not?
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:39 PM
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Search mugenracing or Adam Drake on YouTube. It's explained there.
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Old 07-02-2017, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
Search mugenracing or Adam Drake on YouTube. It's explained there.
thanks

i want to have experiences of people....
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Old 07-02-2017, 08:54 AM
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/826207-imbue-performance-suspension-products.html

The brass pistons are imbue pistons just made for flashpoint exclusivly right now
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:28 AM
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Some have had issues with the threaded portion of the shock shafts that hold the pistons on the shaft itself. As in snapping clean off. I personally haven't had this issue but have seen close friends break shaft after shaft. From the info I've gathered from fellow team members and helping others set there's up, the 5 hole seems to be the most consistent here in NC.
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Old 07-02-2017, 05:59 PM
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OP, I would give a look in the Mugen thread, on Mugen/FP FB pages and the MBX7 Community page on FB as well. Since FP is synonymous with Mugen, the bulk of sales are to Mugen owners, which is where you'll find reviews.

Originally Posted by Jwilliams5 View Post
Some have had issues with the threaded portion of the shock shafts that hold the pistons on the shaft itself. As in snapping clean off. I personally haven't had this issue but have seen close friends break shaft after shaft. From the info I've gathered from fellow team members and helping others set there's up, the 5 hole seems to be the most consistent here in NC.
I've talked with a couple people who had this issue at SIK a couple months back, as well as Adam about it. The only thing I can really think of, is the nut is being over-torqued. The pistons are metal, and they will not give/deform like a plastic piston will, instead when torqued down, you're simply stretching the threads on the shaft, which will eventually break them. An M2.5 thread has a minor diameter of 1.7-1.8mm or so (IIRC) which isn't a ton of meat to torque on. They just need lightly snugged down, any more and it can become an issue.

I thought it might've been a batch issue with the shafts, but we've replaced multiple sets of shock shafts with new ones, as well as built new kits bought within that same time period and haven't had a single issue. Outside of that specific weekend, I haven't heard too much about it being an issue.
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Old 07-02-2017, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Imbue View Post
OP, I would give a look in the Mugen thread, on Mugen/FP FB pages and the MBX7 Community page on FB as well. Since FP is synonymous with Mugen, the bulk of sales are to Mugen owners, which is where you'll find reviews.



I've talked with a couple people who had this issue at SIK a couple months back, as well as Adam about it. The only thing I can really think of, is the nut is being over-torqued. The pistons are metal, and they will not give/deform like a plastic piston will, instead when torqued down, you're simply stretching the threads on the shaft, which will eventually break them. An M2.5 thread has a minor diameter of 1.7-1.8mm or so (IIRC) which isn't a ton of meat to torque on. They just need lightly snugged down, any more and it can become an issue.

I thought it might've been a batch issue with the shafts, but we've replaced multiple sets of shock shafts with new ones, as well as built new kits bought within that same time period and haven't had a single issue. Outside of that specific weekend, I haven't heard too much about it being an issue.

I came to the same conclusion myself after watching a couple guys out there put there shocks together. I even mentioned it and it was brushed off. Haha so glad to hear that my assumption as to why they were breaking was in fact correct!!!
As I hadn't ran them personally I couldn't tell them why. But I have tried the theory behind the "brass" pistons on regular pistons. Brass washers and such to try the different weights. Thanks for the insight!
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:05 AM
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This was common with the VRP gamechangers and mugen shafts also. So its not just a brass piston issue.
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Old 07-03-2017, 07:25 AM
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I've ran almost all types of pistons. And personally never had an issue. Like stated above I believe we were all just tightening them down too much. Lol
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:38 AM
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very very good!!!
thanks for information.....
which oil use on mugen mbx7r 5 hole?
which temperature?
which rebounds ....0.....50 or 100(full)?
thanks
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:12 PM
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That's all dependent on you, the track, and the temps. But a good start would be 42.5 front 37.5 rear using AE oils. I don't use bladder shock caps as they aren't what I like to use. Personally I run m2c ZRS caps. They use a bleeder screw. 0 rebound also with a completely "dead" shock. Meaning no rebound or bound at any shock position. The shaft simply stays where you leave it. There's a lot more into building a dead shock. But the benefits are endless as the shock responds solely to what you do to it. There is no change from start to finish. No pressure build up just what oil and how you build it.
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:32 PM
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I use caps s workz
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:34 PM
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If i have temperature 15/20?......20/25?......30->?
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:23 PM
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The higher the ambient temps outside, you would run slightly thicker oils. For me I'm running 6 hole pistons currently on a low to medium grip outdoor tracks. The tracks tend to groove up nicely and have a high speed flow as well. The jumps aren't what I call huge but they are larger than most.

Early in the season I was running thinner oils... 37.5/32.5. Temps were 15/20*. As it warmed up to say 20/25* I changed my oils to 40/35* to compensate the feel back to what pack I had originally had. You can break it down as far as changing the oil thickness every 5* but again this is once you find what you like. Depending on the style of track or tracks your running on may require a different oil package. With your 5 hole piston of choice you should be able to find a suitable oil range in any brand of your choice. Just be sure you stick with whatever brand of oil you choose as each brand is totally different from one another.
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tom1974 View Post
I use caps s workz
Hey the S Works caps... where's the bleeder screw located? Located to the retaining nut for the shock? Looking for options of screw placements
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