Originally Posted by MattDub

Sir, We welcome criticism and your opinion, it's how we improve and you may have good intentions but this thread is for the NB48.4 which is a major revision and is specifically designed to be better in these loose and bumpy conditions.

Have you owned or driven an NB48.4 that was properly setup for the conditions?

If you are commenting on a previous version of this vehicle, your info doesn't pertain to this revision of vehicle and it appears that you're purposely trying to upset or influence viewers and or potential customers for a vehicle you have never owned or driven. You may have seen or driven a previous revision, but the NB48.4 is drastically different.

I was personally at the ROAR Fuel Nats and can attest that out of the line ALL cars were loose and spinning out. There were also small rocks in the line that would cause ALL vehicles to spin out.

Yes, Ryan is a professional driver, but he is competing against other top professionals. If he was racing against amateurs, yes he could win with pretty much anything but these were some of the best drivers in the world and at this level, the entire package (vehicle included) needs to be at top performance to podium.

Ryan Maifield, who is arguably the best driver in the world, flew off the track several times, then purposely blew his engine then purposely broke his controller. Was he glad that he had a 3mm chassis, probably not? He obviously had other issues with his car and no amount of talent could overcome this.

My point is that if even Maifield couldn't drive a vehicle that was bad, do you think Lutz could? I'm sure Lutz would appreciate this vote of confidence, but I bet even he would agree it's impossible to podium with a bad car at this level.

There is a huge amount of useful information on rctech, but there's also a lot of misinformation. These forums are great as they allow us, on different continents, to communicate and share ideas, but please share correct info. Not many companies visit these forums because of the misinformation but we do on a regular basis and we try to correct any info that isn't.

Originally Posted by gt racing

Matt, Sorry to you and all 48.4 Users!

You are correct. I actually talked about the 48.3 the whole time.
I never tried the NB48.4, looking forward to it and feel it for myself. Experience is better than pit talk thats for sure.
👍🏼
... and i fully understand your explain regarding the nationals. you were there, i dont. Enough said, sir.

Originally Posted by Qrio

Anyone knows if the Mugen starter box will fit the NB48.4 without any mods?

Originally Posted by Qrio

Anyone knows if the Mugen starter box will fit the NB48.4 without any mods?

Originally Posted by tfrankito

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Originally Posted by hairymuffin

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Originally Posted by aqeel200

Hi,

Does anyone knows and hv tested the fillowing. I am thinking of swapping

stock TKR8152B (12T Pinion) n TKR8151B (39T Crown) - stock NB48.4

with TKR8152 (12T pinion) n TKR8151 (40T crown) - option part NB48.4

For both front and rear n maintaining a 48T Spur/13T CB.

There seems to be no information anywhere even from Tekno site explaining in layman what is the impact to the final drive(gear ratio is definitely impacted). Changing to 40T (TKR8151) is best suited for quick of the line acceleration with lesser top speed or slightly less acceleration with slight improved in top speed.

I mean, there has to be a reason why tekno propose the change from stock to option and vice versa.

There are 2 types of tracks that I race every year in a championship - 2 of them is technical and small, and 1 track being with longgg straight n big track.

Appreciate opinion/feedback especially fm Tekno designers��.

Originally Posted by MattDub

Hi aqeel200,
I've been meaning to update the description to help with these questions -- now might be a good time

The NB48.4 comes stock with a 12t pinion (TKR8152) and the 39t ring (TKR8151) in both the front and rear and the EB48.4 has a 12t pinion (TKR8152B) and the 40t ring (TKR8151B) in both the front and rear.

The two sets of gears are used to overdrive the front of the EBs or underdrive the rear of the NBs. If you have both vehicles and want to try underdrive it's as easy as swapping the front diff and pinion of the EB and the rear diff and pinion of the NB. Underdrive helps on very loose tracks, when you need more on power steering or if the rear of the car feels loose.

If you switch the NB to 12/40 in the front and rear you'll gain a little bottom end and lose a little top end, which might be good on a small track with a short straight. You might have to adjust your clutch since this could also cause it to feel a little looser on the bottom end if you don't have good grip. You can also try going to the 46t spur when using 12/40. Joe did this for a while when we were prototyping and there was very little difference compared to 13/48 and 12/39.

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by aqeel200

Wow..excellent reply there. I did not expect the term "to over-drive n under-drive" the front or rear. And excellent timing. My 12 year old son's race our Nationals is this morning in the Pro Class. We tested yesterday and what you described is spot on. The gearing for overdrive is suited for small/technical track like the one we are going to race this morning. So i guess i geared it right using 12T/40T.

Q. We we mix 12T/40 F and 12T/39 front to hv a more apparent front or rear overdrive feeling? Did joe test this scenario as well?

Q. I hv starting to explore a 'gear ratio discovery' and tempted to try 46T/15T or 48T/14T (if I can find one from other brand) including on paper number crunching ratios for each main components and whatnot. .. just as an RnD exploration/comparison so tat I can understand the gear ratio well - to better suit the type of tracks we race.

Again, thanks for your excellent explanation.

Originally Posted by Qrio

After tightening the plastic collar TKR5353, my clutch bell has an end play of at least 3mm. I'm new to nitro & Tekno but I understand the end play should only be about 0.5mm.

Did I install the plastic collar correctly?

Before collar:


After collar:

Originally Posted by MattDub

Hello aqeel200,
In your first question, I think you're asking if we have tried changing the front diff from 12/40 to 12/39? Yes, we have done this and we actually do this often on low grip tracks. Running a smaller ring gear in the front (compared to the rear) causes the car to feel more front wheel drive and is good on slippery tracks, or loose tracks where we need more corner speed or feel that the car is stalling in the corners.

For your second question, sometimes we will change the spur to better suit the track. If the track has a long straight or is mostly high speed well go with a 13/46 and we really haven't been to a track that needs more bottom end but if we did changing to 12/40 diffs would probably be best.

Originally Posted by aqeel200

Excellent explanation!! will try the above in our next Nats race at a big track with longgg straights.

one final Q tho - does overdrive or underdrive setup can cause an engine that was setup to stock gear ratio to overheat (temp will increase)?

I believe i already know the answer but I am not 100% sure - once gear ratio is changed, it is mandatory to retune the engine from base line for optimum performance, among other scenario that requires engine retuning .

Thanks Matt. On courtesy, I will inform Ilias that you hv been very helpful in detail explanation that I can understand on this!

cheers man!