XRAY XB8 GT?
#1

so, obviously instead of solving all the issues on the current xb8 platform hudy is going to bring another one to the market.
he wants to play on all partys instead of fixing the ones still existing and bring them to absolute top.
that is one version of making business, mine itīs not.
distributor and [email protected] were informed in a professional manner several times about the steering system issues.
only reaction was this ridiculous "tech tip" regarding ackermann.
not cool and really disappointing because they keep spreading this "all-new" luxury message....
good luck xray, iīm out.
he wants to play on all partys instead of fixing the ones still existing and bring them to absolute top.
that is one version of making business, mine itīs not.
distributor and [email protected] were informed in a professional manner several times about the steering system issues.
only reaction was this ridiculous "tech tip" regarding ackermann.
not cool and really disappointing because they keep spreading this "all-new" luxury message....
good luck xray, iīm out.
#2


Hopefully you emailed something more coherent and professional than the above post.
I find it hilarious that you can't dial in the suspension on an Xray, Mugen, or associated buggy. But the little girl at my local track can.
Cry wah. Learn how to wrench or switch to a C block car like the Kyo, HB, or Serpent.
-Move your ak forward where it belongs.
-Check your arm geometry.
-Check your hinge pin setup.
-Check your front droop.
-Reset your bumpsteer
-Check your caster settings.
-Loosen the pivot balls until there is a tick of play in them. Lube them well. Flush them out with silicone spray.
For pete's sake man, 1/8th pivot ball cars, and Associated B44 based cars have had this issue for ages. It's an easy fix. It should be pretty obvious what to do. 1 hour tops.
Last edited by Zerodefect; 11-01-2016 at 11:07 AM.
#3

Shouldn't this be posted in one of the onroad forums?
#7


Hopefully you emailed something more coherent and professional than the above post.
I find it hilarious that you can't dial in the suspension on an Xray, Mugen, or associated buggy. But the little girl at my local track can.
Cry wah. Learn how to wrench or switch to a C block car like the Kyo, HB, or Serpent.
-Move your ak forward where it belongs.
-Check your arm geometry.
-Check your hinge pin setup.
-Check your front droop.
-Reset your bumpsteer
-Check your caster settings.
-Loosen the pivot balls until there is a tick of play in them. Lube them well. Flush them out with silicone spray.
For pete's sake man, 1/8th pivot ball cars, and Associated B44 based cars have had this issue for ages. It's an easy fix. It should be pretty obvious what to do. 1 hour tops.
companys offer products, they should bring exactly what they promise. not less, not more. xray doesnīt.
i donīt need build tips or set-up advice after all these years racing, but thank you very much anyway, sir.
#8

actually i took my "paying customership" quite serious and made huge reviews and reports about the xb8.
german distributor was very thankful altough i am no team driver.
i have 20 years experince in 1/8 off road, thats it.
i reported back (even in english and direct to xray) about all the small and big issues.
a racing buddy and me recognized that steering lock issue first, xray checked it and came with that "tech tip" around the corner. all i thought was "WTF?!?"
https://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/ne...nn%20positions
other issues are in "checking process".
that behavior and all other emails i had with them made me switch and forget that xray topic.
i moved on and thats it for me as i do this in my hobby time and not paid for checking products...
when i today see that huge really nice online presentations for "all-new" cars i know whatīs on beyond...
i addressed all issues in the XB8ī16 thread in an informative, friendly way if you ask me.
same with "all-new" fx k3, itīs NOT all new of course we all know...
itīs just hudys way of marketing.
humbleness? nope...
german distributor was very thankful altough i am no team driver.
i have 20 years experince in 1/8 off road, thats it.
i reported back (even in english and direct to xray) about all the small and big issues.
a racing buddy and me recognized that steering lock issue first, xray checked it and came with that "tech tip" around the corner. all i thought was "WTF?!?"
https://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/ne...nn%20positions
other issues are in "checking process".
that behavior and all other emails i had with them made me switch and forget that xray topic.
i moved on and thats it for me as i do this in my hobby time and not paid for checking products...
when i today see that huge really nice online presentations for "all-new" cars i know whatīs on beyond...
i addressed all issues in the XB8ī16 thread in an informative, friendly way if you ask me.
same with "all-new" fx k3, itīs NOT all new of course we all know...
itīs just hudys way of marketing.
humbleness? nope...
#9

You're "straight-linkin" the steering tie rods.
The tie rods always have to be at a different angle, or position than the knuckle connection. When ever the knuckle and tie rod are in a perfect straight line, you lose control of the inside steering, you'll often see it the inside tire get floppy in sharp turns, and the knuckle may even "over-travel" and lock the steering up, cooking your servo.
This is why very many of the 1/10th scale F1 cars have a steering bump stop.
This is why we tapped a long set screw into B44 knuckles.
With the Xb8 you don't have to do either of these things. Reset your aky, bumpsteer, loosen the pivot balls, check your droop. Your car is setup wonky, that's the problem.
This is basic 7th grade geometry.
YOU CAN'T RANDOMLY PICK SETUP SPOTS WITHOUT LOOKING INTO THE DRAWBACKS OF DOING SO, AND THEN THROW A TEMPER TANTRUM CAUSE YOU SUCK AT WRENCHING.
I can replicate the exact same problem on everything from Mugen, Xray, AE RC8B3, to pan cars like F1 and 1/12th scale.
Also if you have too much bump steer, you'll need some give to let the pivot balls snap back. A little play and proper lube works wonders there.
The tie rods always have to be at a different angle, or position than the knuckle connection. When ever the knuckle and tie rod are in a perfect straight line, you lose control of the inside steering, you'll often see it the inside tire get floppy in sharp turns, and the knuckle may even "over-travel" and lock the steering up, cooking your servo.
This is why very many of the 1/10th scale F1 cars have a steering bump stop.
This is why we tapped a long set screw into B44 knuckles.
With the Xb8 you don't have to do either of these things. Reset your aky, bumpsteer, loosen the pivot balls, check your droop. Your car is setup wonky, that's the problem.
This is basic 7th grade geometry.
YOU CAN'T RANDOMLY PICK SETUP SPOTS WITHOUT LOOKING INTO THE DRAWBACKS OF DOING SO, AND THEN THROW A TEMPER TANTRUM CAUSE YOU SUCK AT WRENCHING.
I can replicate the exact same problem on everything from Mugen, Xray, AE RC8B3, to pan cars like F1 and 1/12th scale.
Also if you have too much bump steer, you'll need some give to let the pivot balls snap back. A little play and proper lube works wonders there.
#10
#11