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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 03-16-2016, 08:26 PM
  #91  
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Well...it's nearing that time when I need to refresh my current buggy after 3 seasons. I have always liked the Kyosho, but was always partial to Mugen as early as the MBX4 series. I might be jumping ship to this new buggy.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:12 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by GAPaman
I might be jumping ship to this new buggy.
tki4 is a faster, stronger and more consistent tki3.. what more could anyone ask for?

kyo33001B
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:20 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
This ^

someone asked me recently if the mp9 has enough steering, they looked at me funny when i told them it doesn't actually steer so much as pivot to exactly where you point it..
Ive run AE, and JQ.. recently stepped up to the TKI3.. I cannot believe how much steering this thing has.. you just brake,turn,and pull the trigger.. its unreal.. and they have improved it with the tki4? how lol.. i have some kits on order.. cant wait..
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:22 AM
  #94  
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Hi Guys, is there a list of the versions Kyosho use? I have a MP9 Nitro which I used for my first race last year and no idea what version it is etc, I got it as new unused but with no lid. Loved my first race and it's OS engine went well, now looking to get a MP9e for this season, but wondering about all these version, I assume reading this, TK14 is the latest but then I see the different versions in Inferno, readyset and competetion options, now the comptetion version is over £600 in good old England so that's really not an option but was thinking of the readyset version and then gradually adding some upgrades?

2nd Question please is, will a single 4s 5000mah batteries fit in ok, I have a bunch of them from a TT EB4 G3 which I thought was really good and strong, so don't want to fork out for 2s ones?
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:40 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Delta7
Hi Guys, is there a list of the versions Kyosho use? I have a MP9 Nitro which I used for my first race last year and no idea what version it is etc, I got it as new unused but with no lid. Loved my first race and it's OS engine went well, now looking to get a MP9e for this season, but wondering about all these version, I assume reading this, TK14 is the latest but then I see the different versions in Inferno, readyset and competetion options, now the comptetion version is over £600 in good old England so that's really not an option but was thinking of the readyset version and then gradually adding some upgrades?

2nd Question please is, will a single 4s 5000mah batteries fit in ok, I have a bunch of them from a TT EB4 G3 which I thought was really good and strong, so don't want to fork out for 2s ones?
The race cars are all tki something, the readyset isnt a good idea really as by the time you make it race ready youre looking at double what youd normally pay, and those batteries should be fine
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:34 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Delta7
Hi Guys, is there a list of the versions Kyosho use? I have a MP9 Nitro which I used for my first race last year and no idea what version it is etc, I got it as new unused but with no lid. Loved my first race and it's OS engine went well, now looking to get a MP9e for this season, but wondering about all these version, I assume reading this, TK14 is the latest but then I see the different versions in Inferno, readyset and competetion options, now the comptetion version is over £600 in good old England so that's really not an option but was thinking of the readyset version and then gradually adding some upgrades?

2nd Question please is, will a single 4s 5000mah batteries fit in ok, I have a bunch of them from a TT EB4 G3 which I thought was really good and strong, so don't want to fork out for 2s ones?
MP9 TKI main features:

Long rear tower (8 holes to adjust roll centre)
Long rear shocks
Battery box with waffle lid mounted at rear of buggy next to engine
Velvet coated shock bodies F/R with plastic clips to adjust ride height
Purple springs
Hard coating on all aluminium parts
Plastic radio tray posts
Cross drilled disc brakes
Long shock cap
Hard anodized balls all round
2.5F and 2.8R roll bars

MP9 TKI2 main updates:

Short rear tower (10 holes to adjust roll centre)
Blue springs F/R
Med length rear shocks
Gunmetal coating on all aluminium parts including shock bodies
Threaded spring adjuster shock bodies F/R
Aluminium +2mm rear hub carrier
Aluminium radio tray posts and wing stay post
Aluminium rear toe in block
Solid brake discs
Short shock cap
Revised low force shell
Optional carbon front battery mount
Steel balls all round
2.3F and 2.5R roll bars

MP9 TKI3 (as TKI2 above plus changes below):

Revised radio tray/forward battery box/rx box
HD UJ shafts all round
Optional forward cab shell

MP9 TKI3 spec A:

As MP9 TKI3 kit but factory assembled, then checked by Yuichi Kanai.

MP9 TKI3 readyset:

Factory assembled RTR buggy using plastic parts from MP9 TKI3 kit but using cheaper produced aluminium parts e.g shock towers 3mm stamped aluminium with minimal adjustment compared with the MP9 TKI3 kit's 5mm machined 7075 aluminium shock tower.

Differentials also missing 2x bevel gears and 1x cross pin
UJ shafts only on front
Spiral cut Crown and pinion gears (MP9 TKI3 kit has straight cut Crown and pinion)
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Old 03-18-2016, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Delta7
Hi Guys, is there a list of the versions Kyosho use? I have a MP9 Nitro which I used for my first race last year and no idea what version it is etc, I got it as new unused but with no lid. Loved my first race and it's OS engine went well, now looking to get a MP9e for this season, but wondering about all these version, I assume reading this, TK14 is the latest but then I see the different versions in Inferno, readyset and competetion options, now the comptetion version is over £600 in good old England so that's really not an option but was thinking of the readyset version and then gradually adding some upgrades?

2nd Question please is, will a single 4s 5000mah batteries fit in ok, I have a bunch of them from a TT EB4 G3 which I thought was really good and strong, so don't want to fork out for 2s ones?

Pick yourself up a used TKI3 and you'll be set, theres tons out there with the TKI4 coming soon.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:55 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by BiLL77
Pick yourself up a used TKI3 and you'll be set, theres tons out there with the TKI4 coming soon.
Coming soon???? Mine is on my coffee table almost assembled
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Old 03-20-2016, 02:06 AM
  #99  
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3usmUm6n7E
1:27 -> Jared Tebo with the TKI4 at Silverstate
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3usmUm6n7E
1:27 -> Jared Tebo with the TKI4 at Silverstate
Tebo looked on point. Can't wait to see how the Tki4 handles
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:29 AM
  #101  
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He really gets that MP9 turning in the air well.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:39 AM
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It's still pre order in the US.
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:00 AM
  #103  
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Thanks All !

Last edited by Delta7; 03-22-2016 at 02:12 AM.
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Old 03-22-2016, 12:24 PM
  #104  
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That surface was so unlike any other we've all raced on it was very hard to get used to ,imo not the best proving ground for the new parts but with worlds this year ......oh buddy
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Old 03-22-2016, 01:29 PM
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That surface sucked. Eat all my tires alive. We were used as crash car test dummies for the worlds. We got f'd
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