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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 11-28-2016, 06:37 PM
  #991  
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Originally Posted by WavyEnzo
Do you use the plastic hub carriers? or you using the optional 16deg?
i've biult buggy pure stock, but i have 19deg in the box.
Wanna try stock 13deg first
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:10 PM
  #992  
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I built mine with the 19's ran it for a couple months and was great but then i found myself trying to get more steering in certain races. Went to the 16's and so much more versatile for me. High speed long sweeping turns the 19's work great..if you have a couple 180 turns then the 16's and the 13's are going to be better. I chose the 16 because we still have the pills that go either at a 0 or + or -
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:11 AM
  #993  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
I built mine with the 19's ran it for a couple months and was great but then i found myself trying to get more steering in certain races. Went to the 16's and so much more versatile for me. High speed long sweeping turns the 19's work great..if you have a couple 180 turns then the 16's and the 13's are going to be better. I chose the 16 because we still have the pills that go either at a 0 or + or -
Yeah was gonna get the 19deg.. but my kyosho supplier told me most ppl use the 16deg ones.. so with u saying that.. I'm happy I went with the 16deg
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:13 AM
  #994  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
unless you race on a super hard surface, then no stick with the plastic braces.
Might just use the rear torque rod.. and leave the front one plastic.. so I can see if I like the performance
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Old 11-29-2016, 01:38 PM
  #995  
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Hello, I am new to the forum, I am from Argentina, I have a kyosho mp9 tki4 motor use novarossi mito4 servos savox 1267 and radio futaba 4px,
I had the model tki3 before, and I put the front of aluminum of 13 and the truth that I left of doubling, I ran with the akerman everything for the front and the caster also, excuse my English since it is translated by google tratuctor

Now I wanted to ask and some told me to buy the one of 19 others of the 16th, I wanted to know what experience I could get from you, and I wanted to buy the shock tower MS that are for tracks with little grip, like the ones I run, I wanted to know if Some of you could try them and if they really go better than the originals
I tell you my set up I can have something more too.

Shock silicone rear 500 spring orange front blue spring 550
5 bolts.

5000 5000 3000 differential silicone
1 degree divergence front
2 of combo front

3 degrees rear convergence
3 camber rear
In the rear tower seized in the most remote place and down
On the bottom grill I grab below and inside

And in the front part sticking in

I do not know what else to explain, or to modify it so that it improves with clues with little grip and now improve the subject of the direction that with the piece of 13 bend little ..

Change the stabilized bar I have from 2.3 forward and back

Thank you in advance.
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Old 11-29-2016, 01:50 PM
  #996  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
the short shocks are fine, its just that on real loose and/or bumpy tracks the MS shock/tower combo feels better, the added down/up stroke is beneficial particularly in whoops and long sweeping corners where the car stays more composed. thats my experience anyway
Does the MS tower work with 50mm dampers? Or can you use the factory?
I got the body of the shock absorbers but I did not find the longest rod, or just changed the body? And the piston does not reach the top.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:25 PM
  #997  
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Originally Posted by luchensen
Does the MS tower work with 50mm dampers? Or can you use the factory?
I got the body of the shock absorbers but I did not find the longest rod, or just changed the body? And the piston does not reach the top.
the MS tower needs to be run with the 50mm shock body and 57mm shafts, you can use the stock springs.

this is a setup posted by Shanef a few pages ago, it is very similar to what i run and is an excellent low grip setup.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-mp9-sf-low.jpg  
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:31 PM
  #998  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
I built mine with the 19's ran it for a couple months and was great but then i found myself trying to get more steering in certain races. Went to the 16's and so much more versatile for me. High speed long sweeping turns the 19's work great..if you have a couple 180 turns then the 16's and the 13's are going to be better. I chose the 16 because we still have the pills that go either at a 0 or + or -
I hope i'll get 16's soon (or at least by the beginning of the season).
My idea/understanding is: 13's are too twitchy, 19's are for large/rough tracks, 16's are for general usage.
====
Regarding droop: what is normal lenght for fr and rear unmounted shocks? From center of cap mounting hole to center of bottom ball? I'm guessing that i've screwed shafts too tight into lower plastic end.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:10 PM
  #999  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
the MS tower needs to be run with the 50mm shock body and 57mm shafts, you can use the stock springs.

this is a setup posted by Shanef a few pages ago, it is very similar to what i run and is an excellent low grip setup.
What's the part number for the MS shock tower
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:27 PM
  #1000  
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KYOIF485 tower and the shocks are KYOIF484
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:28 AM
  #1001  
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Originally Posted by RockStar_199
KYOIF485 tower and the shocks are KYOIF484
Thanks
Do you know if KYOIF484 shocks comes in the tki4 kit..

What suspension shocks will I need for my
front tower If485 and my
rear shock tower ifw408b

For my tki4

Or am I better off on buying the
Kyosho Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower ifw465

Last edited by WavyEnzo; 11-30-2016 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mourinho
the MS tower needs to be run with the 50mm shock body and 57mm shafts, you can use the stock springs.

this is a setup posted by Shanef a few pages ago, it is very similar to what i run and is an excellent low grip setup.
I need to put ifw465 and ifw466 and 50mm dampers with 57mm shaft? I have the longest springs also for those shock absorbers ...
Thank you very much for the help..
And with respect to ifw436 or ifw461 I use the 13th of the tki3 and the truth does not bend the car at all ... very little
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:43 AM
  #1003  
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IFW465 The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is taller than the "S" High Camber Tower and best suited to low grip, rough surfaces. This tower must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466).

Last edited by luchensen; 11-30-2016 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 10:28 AM
  #1004  
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Originally Posted by luchensen
IFW465 The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is taller than the "S" High Camber Tower and best suited to low grip, rough surfaces. This tower must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466).
Can I use my tki4 kit suspension on the ifw465
Or will I need bigger suspension?

Don't know if I should get the H-S if464 Or HMS if465 shock_Tower

And will I need if437
For the rear Tower?
Or the if408 rear tower

Just trying to find out what's the best Hard Anodized Tower to use

If someone can help me with this information

Last edited by WavyEnzo; 11-30-2016 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:56 AM
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the tower depends on your track, rough and bump run the ms tower and shocks. if your track is smooth and high speed run the shorter tower and shocks.
almost everyone runs the shorter medium rear tower.(same size that comes with the tki3/tki4)
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