314LikesKyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
11-05-2018, 09:06 AM - Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:
Shocks IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons IF471-01 Front Shock Body IF470-01 Rear Shock Body IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial IFW154 Boots IF346-05C Shock End Set Wing IF491BK Wing IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay Rear End IFH006W Wheel IF490 HUB IF490-01 Hub Insert IF492 Shock Pin IF423HB Rear Arm IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear Front End IF489 Steering Rod Set IF488 Knuckles IF487H Front Arm IFW458 Hard Lower Pin IFW425 93MM CVD IF286 Hard Upper Rod IF486 Lower Susp Holder IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard) IF446B Ackerman Arm IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft Other IF469B Filter 97035LW-13 Clutch Bell IF453B Body Mount IFW107GM Hexes W300910 Washer IF443B Center Diff Plate IF444C Tank IF479B Radio Box 96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim IF481B Fuel Tank Stay IFW336GM Wheelnut IFB008 TKI4 Body IFD403W TKI4 Decal --------------------------- Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is : IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.) They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458) --------------------------- Optional Updates / New Parts: IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9) IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017) Optional Alu front hubs: - IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones) - IFW436 - 16 deg - IFW474 - 17.5 deg - IFW461 - 19deg M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610 Body Options New Bitty Force Body Tebo's Build Videos Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread _____________________ Baseline setups from Joonas.   _____________________ Shock build with vented cap and compensator. You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape. Setup Sheet and Tuning The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense. Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example: Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked. Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange. Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified). Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance. Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there. Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask. Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup. Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic. Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre. Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything. Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do. Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more. Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both. Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height. Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction). Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch. Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible. 
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10-26-2016, 06:50 AM
#811
Its not all abaout castor, you need to take the rollenter into the equation too..With the TKI4 front plate you raise the lower hingepin and that gives you less front end grip in theory. So, while you castor decrease and gives you more steering, rasing the hingepin gives you a bit less steering, its a compromise, giving the TKI4 a bit more steering than the TKI3.
AM can you help me out with this info for ex.
He is running the IF440 (TKI3) Sus. Holder front rear plate and IF419(TKI3) Front Knuckle
and in his Upper Front pills he is running L pill down or in the Middle? and the rear side down.
and his kick up is 11 deg
and he is also running the NEW HSm and NEW upper arm mount.
Kyosho Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower
KYOIFW465
(The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is taller than the "S" High Camber Tower and best suited to low grip, rough surfaces. This tower must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466))
Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front Upper/Rear High Camber Mount Suspension Holder
KYOIFW466
Can you give me what is his castor and what is he trying to do with this front end?
Thank you
10-26-2016, 07:37 AM
#812
Tech Adept
AM Thanx for the info.
AM can you help me out with this info for ex.
He is running the IF440 (TKI3) Sus. Holder front rear plate and IF419(TKI3) Front Knuckle
and in his Upper Front pills he is running L pill down or in the Middle? and the rear side down.
and his kick up is 11 deg
and he is also running the NEW HSm and NEW upper arm mount.
Kyosho Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower
KYOIFW465
(The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is taller than the "S" High Camber Tower and best suited to low grip, rough surfaces. This tower must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466))
Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front Upper/Rear High Camber Mount Suspension Holder
KYOIFW466
Can you give me what is his castor and what is he trying to do with this front end?
Thank you
AM can you help me out with this info for ex.
He is running the IF440 (TKI3) Sus. Holder front rear plate and IF419(TKI3) Front Knuckle
and in his Upper Front pills he is running L pill down or in the Middle? and the rear side down.
and his kick up is 11 deg
and he is also running the NEW HSm and NEW upper arm mount.
Kyosho Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower
KYOIFW465
(The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "MS" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is taller than the "S" High Camber Tower and best suited to low grip, rough surfaces. This tower must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466))
Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front Upper/Rear High Camber Mount Suspension Holder
KYOIFW466
Can you give me what is his castor and what is he trying to do with this front end?
Thank you
He's running the S shocks, and not the MS.
10-26-2016, 07:42 AM
#813
Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "S" High Camber Mount Shock Tower
Kyosho
KYOIFW464
The Kyosho MP9 TKI4 Hard Front "S" High Camber Mount Shock Tower is an optional high mount tower. The mounting holes are set 2mm higher to deliver faster corner speeds. This tower is best suited to high grip surfaces and must be used with the High Mount Upper Suspension Holder (KYOIFW466).
That world track was not HIGH GRIP was it?
10-26-2016, 08:20 AM
#814
This is Jessica Pålsson MS tower MAYBE prototype
Tebo not sure if that is MS like hers or HS
Maybe he changed it before the Main to H-S
Tebo not sure if that is MS like hers or HS
Maybe he changed it before the Main to H-S
10-26-2016, 08:59 AM
#815
The MS tower is the first one that was out and i have been running that since it came out. the other 2 tower are the newer ones that change roll center more
10-26-2016, 12:04 PM
#816
Tech Master
Well, i am not all shure what he tries to achive.
My guess is:
The TKI3 parts gives an easier car to drive (see below). TKI 3 knuckles also has an ackerman better suited to that geometry. (i have not testet TKI3 knuckles on the TKI4 front end, but i asked Paul King and he said you should use TKI4 knuckles on the TKI front end and vica versa).
Regards to the pills for the upper front arms, i think that is a marketing plot :-). He could have used the old short or MS tower and achived the same hight of the upper arm i belive. With that said, i have not ordered or messured the new parts and what the pills do, compared to the old parts.
I have tried the TKI 3 frontplate on the TKI4, this calmed my car down on a rough track with medium/high grip. Car is eaier to drive.
The front medium tower and medium front shocks makes the car goes better in the bumps and jumps. I like it. When it came out, it was suppose to get a bit more steering, i never noticed that.
When you raise the upper front arm, you get less steering and a more stable car. The Negative effect i noticed, was with high front arm, and high rear camberlink, the car rolls over faster than with lower arms on fornt tower and camberlink on rear tower, on a meduim/high grip track.
My guess is:
The TKI3 parts gives an easier car to drive (see below). TKI 3 knuckles also has an ackerman better suited to that geometry. (i have not testet TKI3 knuckles on the TKI4 front end, but i asked Paul King and he said you should use TKI4 knuckles on the TKI front end and vica versa).
Regards to the pills for the upper front arms, i think that is a marketing plot :-). He could have used the old short or MS tower and achived the same hight of the upper arm i belive. With that said, i have not ordered or messured the new parts and what the pills do, compared to the old parts.
I have tried the TKI 3 frontplate on the TKI4, this calmed my car down on a rough track with medium/high grip. Car is eaier to drive.
The front medium tower and medium front shocks makes the car goes better in the bumps and jumps. I like it. When it came out, it was suppose to get a bit more steering, i never noticed that.
When you raise the upper front arm, you get less steering and a more stable car. The Negative effect i noticed, was with high front arm, and high rear camberlink, the car rolls over faster than with lower arms on fornt tower and camberlink on rear tower, on a meduim/high grip track.
10-26-2016, 05:56 PM
#817
10-27-2016, 02:47 AM
#818
Tech Adept
Hi.
On Tebo's worlds setup sheet it says "rear hub carrier" - Position UPPER. Does that mean the hub is in the upper hole, or does it mean it's in the lower hole, and that way bringing the hub higher ?
On Tebo's worlds setup sheet it says "rear hub carrier" - Position UPPER. Does that mean the hub is in the upper hole, or does it mean it's in the lower hole, and that way bringing the hub higher ?
10-27-2016, 07:06 AM
#819
In the upper hole.
10-27-2016, 09:14 PM
#820
Could someone tell me ALL the parts needed to run the longer front shocks? I'd greatly appreciate it.
10-27-2016, 09:31 PM
#821
10-27-2016, 11:47 PM
#822
hey guys I wanna know if this car drives better then the associated rc8b3
10-28-2016, 01:22 AM
#823
Tech Adept
I wanna know if this car drives better then the associated rc8b3[/QUOTE]
I have both cars and I have to say with the correct set up for the conditions the Kyosho is slightly quicker. With the Kyosho you can brake later accelerate harder and the suspension is a touch better,but if you don't like to tinker during a race then the RC8b3 is the car for you . All you have to do is put the DNC set up on it then get the correct tyres for the conditions and you have a car that is quick and easy to drive.
10-28-2016, 01:52 PM
#825
