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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-27-2016, 06:59 AM
  #361  
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Originally Posted by houston
Curious .....what difference does it make if the chassis maintains its anodizing?
It's a 900 dollar kit, it's gotta look pretty for at least more than one race day
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:36 AM
  #362  
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You will need:
front arms, steering knuckles and the front rear hingepinholder. That is the only things that makes a geometry change on the TKI4 comapred to TKI3. I would advice to buy the rear TKI4 arms also as they are stronger- geometrywise they are the same, but it vould be the new arms have a different flex.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:44 PM
  #363  
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So the chassis kick up is unchanged? I thought I saw that somewhere. Or is it done with just A/B plates?
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Old 04-27-2016, 01:00 PM
  #364  
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Originally Posted by JonnyW
So the chassis kick up is unchanged? I thought I saw that somewhere. Or is it done with just A/B plates?
Just plates
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:25 PM
  #365  
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Originally Posted by am
You will need:
front arms, steering knuckles and the front rear hingepinholder. That is the only things that makes a geometry change on the TKI4 comapred to TKI3. I would advice to buy the rear TKI4 arms also as they are stronger- geometrywise they are the same, but it vould be the new arms have a different flex.
the front hexes are also the narrow type on the tki4, about 2mm narrower overall track width with those..
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:25 PM
  #366  
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Originally Posted by houston
Curious .....what difference does it make if the chassis maintains its anodizing?
Only looks, after about 15 minutes of runtime your brand new kit looks like a 3 gallon old losi. The hard main chassis lasts for gallons and your kit still looks pretty new. Only cosmetic buddy only cosmetic
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Old 04-27-2016, 05:56 PM
  #367  
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Houston was being fecesious. He knows it's a cosmetic thing
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Old 04-27-2016, 06:52 PM
  #368  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
the front hexes are also the narrow type on the tki4, about 2mm narrower overall track width with those..
Or these the narrow ones?
ifw107gm

These

KYOIFW444GM
2mm wider

IF115

IFW326GM

IF107B


How many HEX are there
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Or these the narrow ones?
ifw107gm

These

KYOIFW444GM
2mm wider

IF115

IFW326GM

IF107B


How many HEX are there
yes you want IFW107GM front and rear
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:59 PM
  #370  
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how tight is your guys pipes to tanks? the only pipe header setup i had that i felt gave sufficent clearence was my werks 2013. all my nova setups had the pipe touching the tank. i really want to run my novas but dont like bending headers out all that much
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:54 PM
  #371  
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OK I am new to kyosho, bought two buggies Tki4 and converted one to an ebuggy. I am with you guys, you pay 700 plus alum hubs and after one race weekend it looks like has 3 gallons plus on the car if not more. Kinda bummed about that. I have had some hard landings in some hard mains this past weekend and bent one of my 85 dollar front 16 degree hubs, came off a jump wrong and broke a rear arm which bent a hing pin, and the car has handled OK that's about it, but not like I had hoped. Also after one race weekend the center driver line unis are already wiggly and pins have a flat spot, well had some pins from my mugen and went to change it, the pin went in but cracked the universal, so had to buy replacement universals for that. So yea almost 2000 in switching to this car and kinda regreting it right now...
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:24 PM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by roblupo
OK I am new to kyosho, bought two buggies Tki4 and converted one to an ebuggy. I am with you guys, you pay 700 plus alum hubs and after one race weekend it looks like has 3 gallons plus on the car if not more. Kinda bummed about that. I have had some hard landings in some hard mains this past weekend and bent one of my 85 dollar front 16 degree hubs, came off a jump wrong and broke a rear arm which bent a hing pin, and the car has handled OK that's about it, but not like I had hoped. Also after one race weekend the center driver line unis are already wiggly and pins have a flat spot, well had some pins from my mugen and went to change it, the pin went in but cracked the universal, so had to buy replacement universals for that. So yea almost 2000 in switching to this car and kinda regreting it right now...


the kyosho kits have come with the brown anodizing for how long? and people are still getting upset about it??? really?
if anodizing longevity is of such immense concern than get a different car, or if you insist on having the bench-setting buggy, stump up for the HA gold parts..
and dont bring up the price thing either, it is what it is, kyosho charge what they do because they manufacture the best quality gear in a country with first world industrial relations, not some sweatshop where they pay their slaves peanuts.. plus Yuichi has to pay for his Ferrari somehow.

as for your breakages, they must have been serious crashes that would likely break any car. i always said the tki3 is NOT a fragile car, the tki4 is even less so.

if you have a 2.9mm diameter hole in hardened steel and force in a 3mm diameter pin as you have done, i guarantee you any manufacturers universal will crack, again this is not a reflection on kyosho but your inexperience with them.
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Old 04-28-2016, 03:37 AM
  #373  
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Who cares about the anodizing on a car that's built for racing not sitting on a stand at a car show it's not how good the anodizing looks in the pits it's how it performs on the track.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:43 AM
  #374  
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Theses cars awesome!
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:19 AM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by roblupo
OK I am new to kyosho, bought two buggies Tki4 and converted one to an ebuggy. I am with you guys, you pay 700 plus alum hubs and after one race weekend it looks like has 3 gallons plus on the car if not more. Kinda bummed about that. I have had some hard landings in some hard mains this past weekend and bent one of my 85 dollar front 16 degree hubs, came off a jump wrong and broke a rear arm which bent a hing pin, and the car has handled OK that's about it, but not like I had hoped. Also after one race weekend the center driver line unis are already wiggly and pins have a flat spot, well had some pins from my mugen and went to change it, the pin went in but cracked the universal, so had to buy replacement universals for that. So yea almost 2000 in switching to this car and kinda regreting it right now...
Read old tki forum to find out how tough it is... I never buy kyosho because i dont have extra bucks to spend
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