314LikesKyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
11-05-2018, 09:06 AM - Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:
Shocks IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons IF471-01 Front Shock Body IF470-01 Rear Shock Body IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial IFW154 Boots IF346-05C Shock End Set Wing IF491BK Wing IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay Rear End IFH006W Wheel IF490 HUB IF490-01 Hub Insert IF492 Shock Pin IF423HB Rear Arm IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear Front End IF489 Steering Rod Set IF488 Knuckles IF487H Front Arm IFW458 Hard Lower Pin IFW425 93MM CVD IF286 Hard Upper Rod IF486 Lower Susp Holder IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard) IF446B Ackerman Arm IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft Other IF469B Filter 97035LW-13 Clutch Bell IF453B Body Mount IFW107GM Hexes W300910 Washer IF443B Center Diff Plate IF444C Tank IF479B Radio Box 96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim IF481B Fuel Tank Stay IFW336GM Wheelnut IFB008 TKI4 Body IFD403W TKI4 Decal --------------------------- Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is : IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.) They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458) --------------------------- Optional Updates / New Parts: IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9) IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017) Optional Alu front hubs: - IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones) - IFW436 - 16 deg - IFW474 - 17.5 deg - IFW461 - 19deg M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610 Body Options New Bitty Force Body Tebo's Build Videos Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread _____________________ Baseline setups from Joonas.   _____________________ Shock build with vented cap and compensator. You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape. Setup Sheet and Tuning The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense. Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example: Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked. Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange. Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified). Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance. Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there. Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask. Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup. Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic. Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre. Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything. Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do. Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more. Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both. Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height. Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction). Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch. Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible. 
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04-22-2016, 12:10 AM
#347
Tech Adept
Ive heard the car feels lazy with those pistons in , the track would need to be really blown out to use those. I will give them a try when I get some more time. I realised i had 45 in the front when i checked ,so that wouldn't of helped.
04-22-2016, 01:08 AM
#348
Tech Initiate
04-22-2016, 01:17 AM
#349
The shimming isn't exactly explained in the instructions in terms of distances and number of shims. You'll need about 2 or 3 of the brass colored shims to space the flywheel from the engine. You want to be able to see some light pass through the gap. I'd estimate that the thickness of a brass shim is a good gap. Then put on the collet and the flywheel. The instructions then call for the nut, but i use a lock washer before the nut b/c I've had them come loose. Lock-tite doesn't help. From here you use as many shims as necessary before and/ or after the clutch bell so the bell is centered on the spur. It's important to note that if you're using the composite shoe'd Buku you can't use a clutch bell that was used with aluminum shoes beforehand.
04-22-2016, 01:20 AM
#350
Tech Regular
04-22-2016, 05:58 AM
#351
04-22-2016, 06:24 AM
#352
I didnt really look at the piston but i seen there was an 8 hole piston in the kit and a 5 hole piston, my question is is the 8 hole piston in the kit different than the white 8hole1x3 piston other than it bein machined? I see the pros are using the white piston
04-22-2016, 06:27 AM
#353
Just built my car last night good fit and finish but was a pain in the ass dealing with those parts trees
04-23-2016, 06:48 AM
#355
Anyone have any issues with the new wings? For me they don't break but they bend badly, they seem a bit soft. Mine was bent simply by the turn marshal grabbing my car and putting it back on the track. Came in and had to weight it down to get it to go back to form.
04-26-2016, 07:43 AM
#356
can someone post a feedback about how the TKI4 handles compared to the TKI3?
04-26-2016, 07:30 PM
#357
Thats my review, great car, crap chassis coating and soft wing
04-26-2016, 07:50 PM
#358
so im back running a k-car. its brand new tki3 with the 93mm unis, tki4 shock pins and body, 19 degree aluminum c hubs. ive ordered the hard tki4 arms front and rear and the outter pins, as well as rear hub bushings, what else besides tbe front lower b plate needs to be swapped out to get the tki4 steering feel?
thanks
thanks
04-26-2016, 11:10 PM
#359
so im back running a k-car. its brand new tki3 with the 93mm unis, tki4 shock pins and body, 19 degree aluminum c hubs. ive ordered the hard tki4 arms front and rear and the outter pins, as well as rear hub bushings, what else besides tbe front lower b plate needs to be swapped out to get the tki4 steering feel?
thanks
thanks
Main thing is to get the arm geometry which is why the pin holder is important and the front hubs. You should also think about getting the 4x50mm steering rods, the stock are 46mm so there is a big difference, but the stock will work, just might pull out on an impact. Rear hubs might not help with the front steering or even the rear accept for adjustment
04-27-2016, 07:04 AM
#360
The same but better. Handles very similar to the TKI3 in terms of bumps and jumps, along with setups. It corners much MUCH better and the back end can rotate on a dime. Front end is much stronger, coating on the chassis still wears off fast. all around much better for the most part. The only issues I have are the coating on the chassis and how flexible the wings are. The turn marshal grabbed my wing to put me back on track (was not on my lid) and the thing warped badly. I had hopes for the wing, the extended mounts didn't seem to do anything for the wing either. It just seems a bit soft compared to other wings.I let a friend use one of my upgraded tki4's with a proline trifecta plastic not lexan wing and he kept putting it on its lid, the wing is scratched up like no other but is perfectly straight not a bend one on it.
Thats my review, great car, crap chassis coating and soft wing
Thats my review, great car, crap chassis coating and soft wing
