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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 04-21-2016, 08:57 PM
  #346  
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Asking for a friend, can the tki3 be upgraded to tki4?
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:10 AM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by BigInJapan
Why didn't you run the 1.5 x 5's. On a
loose track I would thought they would be better
Ive heard the car feels lazy with those pistons in , the track would need to be really blown out to use those. I will give them a try when I get some more time. I realised i had 45 in the front when i checked ,so that wouldn't of helped.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:08 AM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by PaulNZ
Looks like a cut down Suspension Holder.
But do you know what purpose it serves on the tank? I dont get it.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:17 AM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by jonasm48
Can anyone tell me how to shim for a buku clutch? I got it used without instructions and buku Won't email me back
The shimming isn't exactly explained in the instructions in terms of distances and number of shims. You'll need about 2 or 3 of the brass colored shims to space the flywheel from the engine. You want to be able to see some light pass through the gap. I'd estimate that the thickness of a brass shim is a good gap. Then put on the collet and the flywheel. The instructions then call for the nut, but i use a lock washer before the nut b/c I've had them come loose. Lock-tite doesn't help. From here you use as many shims as necessary before and/ or after the clutch bell so the bell is centered on the spur. It's important to note that if you're using the composite shoe'd Buku you can't use a clutch bell that was used with aluminum shoes beforehand.
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Old 04-22-2016, 01:20 AM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by Perfer
But do you know what purpose it serves on the tank? I dont get it.
I asked Mick Craddock and it is to stop movement. So in an hour final tubing or whatever can be cut etc
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:58 AM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by Perfer
But do you know what purpose it serves on the tank? I dont get it.
You can check on the tki3 thread, a few pages back they speculated what it was for, It had something to do with protecting the fuel line from a sharp edge of the filter or something........
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:24 AM
  #352  
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I didnt really look at the piston but i seen there was an 8 hole piston in the kit and a 5 hole piston, my question is is the 8 hole piston in the kit different than the white 8hole1x3 piston other than it bein machined? I see the pros are using the white piston
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Old 04-22-2016, 06:27 AM
  #353  
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Just built my car last night good fit and finish but was a pain in the ass dealing with those parts trees
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Old 04-22-2016, 10:47 PM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by tony montana
Asking for a friend, can the tki3 be upgraded to tki4?
Yes...easily
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Old 04-23-2016, 06:48 AM
  #355  
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Anyone have any issues with the new wings? For me they don't break but they bend badly, they seem a bit soft. Mine was bent simply by the turn marshal grabbing my car and putting it back on the track. Came in and had to weight it down to get it to go back to form.
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:43 AM
  #356  
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can someone post a feedback about how the TKI4 handles compared to the TKI3?
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulse_
can someone post a feedback about how the TKI4 handles compared to the TKI3?
The same but better. Handles very similar to the TKI3 in terms of bumps and jumps, along with setups. It corners much MUCH better and the back end can rotate on a dime. Front end is much stronger, coating on the chassis still wears off fast. all around much better for the most part. The only issues I have are the coating on the chassis and how flexible the wings are. The turn marshal grabbed my wing to put me back on track (was not on my lid) and the thing warped badly. I had hopes for the wing, the extended mounts didn't seem to do anything for the wing either. It just seems a bit soft compared to other wings.I let a friend use one of my upgraded tki4's with a proline trifecta plastic not lexan wing and he kept putting it on its lid, the wing is scratched up like no other but is perfectly straight not a bend one on it.

Thats my review, great car, crap chassis coating and soft wing
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Old 04-26-2016, 07:50 PM
  #358  
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so im back running a k-car. its brand new tki3 with the 93mm unis, tki4 shock pins and body, 19 degree aluminum c hubs. ive ordered the hard tki4 arms front and rear and the outter pins, as well as rear hub bushings, what else besides tbe front lower b plate needs to be swapped out to get the tki4 steering feel?
thanks
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by HaulinBass
so im back running a k-car. its brand new tki3 with the 93mm unis, tki4 shock pins and body, 19 degree aluminum c hubs. ive ordered the hard tki4 arms front and rear and the outter pins, as well as rear hub bushings, what else besides tbe front lower b plate needs to be swapped out to get the tki4 steering feel?
thanks
front hubs, arms, lower front rear inner pin holder and rear hubs. Front 19 degree c nubs not needed but I like them, you could also use 16 degree or the standard plastic or aluminum c hubs as well.

Main thing is to get the arm geometry which is why the pin holder is important and the front hubs. You should also think about getting the 4x50mm steering rods, the stock are 46mm so there is a big difference, but the stock will work, just might pull out on an impact. Rear hubs might not help with the front steering or even the rear accept for adjustment
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:04 AM
  #360  
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
The same but better. Handles very similar to the TKI3 in terms of bumps and jumps, along with setups. It corners much MUCH better and the back end can rotate on a dime. Front end is much stronger, coating on the chassis still wears off fast. all around much better for the most part. The only issues I have are the coating on the chassis and how flexible the wings are. The turn marshal grabbed my wing to put me back on track (was not on my lid) and the thing warped badly. I had hopes for the wing, the extended mounts didn't seem to do anything for the wing either. It just seems a bit soft compared to other wings.I let a friend use one of my upgraded tki4's with a proline trifecta plastic not lexan wing and he kept putting it on its lid, the wing is scratched up like no other but is perfectly straight not a bend one on it.

Thats my review, great car, crap chassis coating and soft wing
Curious .....what difference does it make if the chassis maintains its anodizing?
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