Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit >

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

Like Tree314Likes

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

    Hide Wikipost
Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

Print Wikipost

Old 05-30-2022, 01:56 AM
  #3076  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: portugal
Posts: 113
Default

hello !!

anybody having experience of steering plate rubbing or scraping on the front diff case?

what is the solution?

greetings to all

Last edited by timaneli; 05-30-2022 at 09:51 AM.
timaneli is offline  
Old 05-30-2022, 06:53 PM
  #3077  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 407
Default

Originally Posted by timaneli View Post
hello !!

anybody having experience of steering plate rubbing or scraping on the front diff case?

what is the solution?

greetings to all
check you have the washers between the steering cranks and the plate. The tolerance is small but it shouldn't rub. I recall having the same issue but realised I'd either missed the washers or put the wrong ones in there.
Matty A is offline  
Old 05-31-2022, 02:08 AM
  #3078  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: portugal
Posts: 113
Default

Originally Posted by Matty A View Post
check you have the washers between the steering cranks and the plate. The tolerance is small but it shouldn't rub. I recall having the same issue but realised I'd either missed the washers or put the wrong ones in there.
i notice some play on the steering plate and yes with some washers should be ok!

thanks for your tip!
timaneli is offline  
Old 09-03-2022, 10:17 AM
  #3079  
Tech Master
iTrader: (71)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: SOCAL
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 71 (100%+)
Default Parts and parts lots

Planning on clearing out some parts for the Kyosho tki4… pm if looking for some parts. I plan on selling in bundles and at very good prices. Pm me for details and pics…
Tmachine is offline  
Old 11-29-2022, 02:41 AM
  #3080  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 3
Default

good morning
i have seen some Mp9 tki4 with superior front arms of Mp10.
Do you know which parts need for modification ? many tanks !
rightclick is offline  
Old 11-30-2022, 09:10 PM
  #3081  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 407
Default

Originally Posted by rightclick View Post
good morning
i have seen some Mp9 tki4 with superior front arms of Mp10.
Do you know which parts need for modification ? many tanks !
Superior? Lower arms are virtually identical but I’ve lost count of the times I’ve broken mp10 a arms. Not sure why but they are much weaker than the mp9. Upper is an easy mod. Lower you’ll have to look at a and b blocks plus pills plus driveshafts. The major issue I’d see is the droop screw and how it would seat on the mp9 chassis (not sure it will.)
There are a few including me that have considered going back to the mp9 front end.
Matty A is offline  
Old 12-05-2022, 01:02 AM
  #3082  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 3
Default

thanks, yes only superior arms. i think i need this code :
if-604, if-463h,if-465h, if-617, if-287
do you think is a good mod ?

many thanks !
rightclick is offline  
Old 12-05-2022, 04:56 AM
  #3083  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 407
Default

Originally Posted by rightclick View Post
thanks, yes only superior arms. i think i need this code :
if-604, if-463h,if-465h, if-617, if-287
do you think is a good mod ?

many thanks !
i honestly don’t think it’ll make any improvement. They’re virtually identical.
Matty A is offline  

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.