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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2ļ-2.5ļ on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90ļ to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9ļ of kick up to be better than 9ļ of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 02-22-2022, 12:47 PM
  #3061  
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I have measured my rear springs and theyre 85mm. I have (tried to) highlighted the ones i believe i have in purple on the spring sheet (IS106-8514). Am i correct in saying i would want the ones highlighted in green (IFS004-1114)?

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Old 02-22-2022, 02:44 PM
  #3062  
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It’s difficult to tell from the photo but if the rear shock body is more than 55mm (standard as pictured) then you need the 95mm springs.


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Old 02-22-2022, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Rackstraw
I didn't consider maybe the springs are wrong since the guy i bought the car from said it had been setup as mike cradock said to (and i know he knows what hes doing).

Either way i need to buy more springs as spares/tuning options.

Just to be clear (sorry I'm still getting my head round this)
Mate, you're gonna give yourself a mental hernia...if it's the first MP9 you've had, just put all the shocks back to standard box/kit and start from there. Otherwise you'll never be able to figure out where to tune the suspension from, if you don't know what the car is like to drive at it's very base setting and build your base setting from there.

I'd take the MC 'said to set-up' with a pinch of salt to be honest, unless he gave you some sort of proof. I know Mike pretty well and he's usually way to busy at a meeting to be running a 2 minute advice clinic...unless this geezer actually knows him and can contact him away from that environment.

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Old 02-22-2022, 08:28 PM
  #3064  
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Hello Max Rackstraw,

The Orange Spring that You measured on the picture is indeed IS106-8514, or the one that You highlighted with Purple.

Cheers..

Originally Posted by Max Rackstraw
I have measured my rear springs and theyre 85mm. I have (tried to) highlighted the ones i believe i have in purple on the spring sheet (IS106-8514). Am i correct in saying i would want the ones highlighted in green (IFS004-1114)?

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Old 02-23-2022, 01:34 AM
  #3065  
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Originally Posted by 2fst4u67
Mate, you're gonna give yourself a mental hernia...if it's the first MP9 you've had, just put all the shocks back to standard box/kit and start from there. Otherwise you'll never be able to figure out where to tune the suspension from, if you don't know what the car is like to drive at it's very base setting and build your base setting from there.

I'd take the MC 'said to set-up' with a pinch of salt to be honest, unless he gave you some sort of proof. I know Mike pretty well and he's usually way to busy at a meeting to be running a 2 minute advice clinic...unless this geezer actually knows him and can contact him away from that environment.

Honestly thats what i thought i should do, just put it back to stock, like i said i didn't even put these parts on the car so i don't even know what changes it made to handling over stock. Id like to use these option parts but only if set up correctly.
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Old 02-23-2022, 01:36 AM
  #3066  
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Originally Posted by Matty A
Itís difficult to tell from the photo but if the rear shock body is more than 55mm (standard as pictured) then you need the 95mm springs.


Simple enough then, I'll get some 95mm springs at the next model shop visit. Thanks for the explanation mate
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Rackstraw
Honestly thats what i thought i should do, just put it back to stock, like i said i didn't even put these parts on the car so i don't even know what changes it made to handling over stock. Id like to use these option parts but only if set up correctly.
100% do this mate and get all the option parts you want, that fit your budget etc. I did exactly the same thing when I bought my first TKI4...built to kit settings first and worked outwards from there. Apart from a maybe a few generic things people do with whatever brand they like, trying to use someone else's set-up is like wearing their trousers...completely pointless, because it won't fit right for you.
Not sure where you're most likely going to be practicing/racing, but if it's at Herts, you seriously won't need to make that many changes to get it to work well around there. The MP9/10 are very well suited to that track.
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fst4u67
100% do this mate and get all the option parts you want, that fit your budget etc. I did exactly the same thing when I bought my first TKI4...built to kit settings first and worked outwards from there. Apart from a maybe a few generic things people do with whatever brand they like, trying to use someone else's set-up is like wearing their trousers...completely pointless, because it won't fit right for you.
Not sure where you're most likely going to be practicing/racing, but if it's at Herts, you seriously won't need to make that many changes to get it to work well around there. The MP9/10 are very well suited to that track.
Yup sure am going to be racing at Herts, glad to know it doesn't need much tweeking. Im going to get the standard shocks and towers and keep this stuff for spares/tuning options.
I think currently the car has the high mount on the front with big shocks and high on the rear with standard shocks. From what i see online and what you meantioned... I dont need any of that for herts. (To be honest i thought that was the case from the beggining) thanks again!
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Rackstraw
Yup sure am going to be racing at Herts, glad to know it doesn't need much tweeking. Im going to get the standard shocks and towers and keep this stuff for spares/tuning options.
I think currently the car has the high mount on the front with big shocks and high on the rear with standard shocks. From what i see online and what you meantioned... I dont need any of that for herts. (To be honest i thought that was the case from the beggining) thanks again!
No problem. Once you get it dialled in for you and want to start testing different options to fine tune perhaps, it is always worth looking back through some of Elliot Boots old set-up sheets for pointers. It was basically his home track and he was pretty mighty there with the MP9.
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Old 02-26-2022, 08:05 AM
  #3070  
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Default Diff squeeking

Just rebuilt my center diff, smooth as butter but when I manually turn the drivetrain from the front wheels, it makes a squeeking sound.

This only happens when the drivetrain is turned from the front wheels, turning the rear wheels does not cause it.

I have not run the car under its own power yet. Only just finished the rebuild.

Any ideas what could be causing it?
Or is it just nothing to worry about?

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Old 02-26-2022, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Rackstraw
Just rebuilt my center diff, smooth as butter but when I manually turn the drivetrain from the front wheels, it makes a squeeking sound.

This only happens when the drivetrain is turned from the front wheels, turning the rear wheels does not cause it.

I have not run the car under its own power yet. Only just finished the rebuild.

Any ideas what could be causing it?
Or is it just nothing to worry about?
As long as the drivetrain feels free I wouldnít worry about it. Iíve been racing a long time and have had the some squeaking during race days so I would say itís normal. Not sure why but it happens so donít worry 😉
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Old 02-26-2022, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Team_Orange
As long as the drivetrain feels free I wouldnít worry about it. Iíve been racing a long time and have had the some squeaking during race days so I would say itís normal. Not sure why but it happens so donít worry 😉
Alright mate, thanks alot
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Old 03-09-2022, 04:55 PM
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Just posting this up here, as hopefully it'll avoid me having to tell some scamming turd to GFT, with their dumba$$ PM via the WTB section.

Would anyone have a decent chassis (IF473) kicking around, for a sensible price in relation to condition. Not fussed if it's seen some track time, as long as it's not beat to death. Drop me PM with details and decent res photos.
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Old 03-15-2022, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2fst4u67
Just posting this up here, as hopefully it'll avoid me having to tell some scamming turd to GFT, with their dumba$$ PM via the WTB section.

Would anyone have a decent chassis (IF473) kicking around, for a sensible price in relation to condition. Not fussed if it's seen some track time, as long as it's not beat to death. Drop me PM with details and decent res photos.
I sourced a used one on ebay a couple months ago for $14. Maybe try there, a lot of people parting out
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Old 03-16-2022, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mk4cam
I sourced a used one on ebay a couple months ago for $14. Maybe try there, a lot of people parting out
First place I looked mate, no bueno at the moment sadly...but I check it daily. Thanks for the post though.
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