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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2ļ-2.5ļ on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90ļ to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9ļ of kick up to be better than 9ļ of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 05-18-2021, 04:14 PM
  #3046  
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Originally Posted by Team_Orange
This is totally fine. You could always take a rear shim and put it on the front so you have 1 behind the rear bearing and 1 in front of the bearing. All motors are different,on my OS I run the washer behind the collet,2 washers behind the rear bearing and 1 on the front of the bearing.
team orange,thank you for your help buddy I appreciate it: I knew every engine was a little different and would require different shims. Iíll just run it as is and see how it goes!
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:56 AM
  #3047  
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Good morning everyone! Small update and question. Ran about 6 tanks through the novarossi p5xlt and itís breaking in really well and the kyosho mp9 tki3buggy is doing great. One issue keeps popping up intermittently though and itís a minor drivetrain bind issue that pops up when spinning the wheels slowly by hand with engine off and buggy on a stand. 98% of the time the drivetrain spins free with no issues, but once in awhile it ďbinds upĒ and catches when testing, no longer spins free for a second, and causes diff action if that makes sense until it breaks free and spins smooth again. I also hear intermittent l squeaking sounds coming from the wheel/hub area. Some background-

​​​​​​ófront,rear, and center diffs rebuilt, brand new oils,bearings, and outdrives . properly assembled and shimmed with one on the ring gear side. They are smooth.
- brand new center front and rear univerals
- original(I assume) universal driveshafts front and rear
- clutchbell shimmed perfect, spins great, new bearings, itís fine
- brake pads have what I feel is acceptable play, and I really donít think they are locking up or binding

From my research, it sounds like my wheel/hub bearings might be shot out? I would just like some opinions and other things to look for. I could sit here and spin the wheels fast for 15 minutes by hand(Iíve done it over and over)and it wonít bind once, then randomly it binds for a second if I spin them slow, does itís differential action thing, releases, and spins free again. Again, this is with the buggy on a stand and not running, while running there was no apparent issues related to any of this. Thank you in advance
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Old 05-23-2021, 07:07 PM
  #3048  
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Originally Posted by Losi215
Good morning everyone! Small update and question. Ran about 6 tanks through the novarossi p5xlt and itís breaking in really well and the kyosho mp9 tki3buggy is doing great. One issue keeps popping up intermittently though and itís a minor drivetrain bind issue that pops up when spinning the wheels slowly by hand with engine off and buggy on a stand. 98% of the time the drivetrain spins free with no issues, but once in awhile it ďbinds upĒ and catches when testing, no longer spins free for a second, and causes diff action if that makes sense until it breaks free and spins smooth again. I also hear intermittent l squeaking sounds coming from the wheel/hub area. Some background-

​​​​​​ófront,rear, and center diffs rebuilt, brand new oils,bearings, and outdrives . properly assembled and shimmed with one on the ring gear side. They are smooth.
- brand new center front and rear univerals
- original(I assume) universal driveshafts front and rear
- clutchbell shimmed perfect, spins great, new bearings, itís fine
- brake pads have what I feel is acceptable play, and I really donít think they are locking up or binding

From my research, it sounds like my wheel/hub bearings might be shot out? I would just like some opinions and other things to look for. I could sit here and spin the wheels fast for 15 minutes by hand(Iíve done it over and over)and it wonít bind once, then randomly it binds for a second if I spin them slow, does itís differential action thing, releases, and spins free again. Again, this is with the buggy on a stand and not running, while running there was no apparent issues related to any of this. Thank you in advance
Thats normal. Whenever I freshen up the diffs and put the car back together it does the same thing. I think itís because youíre putting the teeth from the ring and pinion in a different paired spot than where they previously were if that makes sense.
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Old 05-23-2021, 07:59 PM
  #3049  
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Originally Posted by Team_Orange
Thats normal. Whenever I freshen up the diffs and put the car back together it does the same thing. I think itís because youíre putting the teeth from the ring and pinion in a different paired spot than where they previously were if that makes sense.
awesome man, I appreciate the advice. I was beginning to think it was okay too, literally spins free and great over and over again and I had no problems running, besides the problems Iím looking for of course. Overall, the kyosho is solid and I canít wait to finish break in and hit the dirt for some track time. Awesome, awesome platform for sure and itís starting to click since Iíve rebuilt over half of it now. Appreciate your help my friend and thank you again.


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Old 06-08-2021, 10:30 AM
  #3050  
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I recently converted my MP9 to electric, I thought I would share the costs and what I bought.

I tried to do this cheap using budget (but new) spec parts. I ended up spending $355 to convert the buggy.


Conversion costs.
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Old 10-03-2021, 11:27 AM
  #3051  
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Hello folks, is this the correct thread for the MP9 Inferno TK14 Readyset version? If not I apologize, possibly someone could send me the correct link.
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by HK500Pilot
Hello folks, is this the correct thread for the MP9 Inferno TK14 Readyset version? If not I apologize, possibly someone could send me the correct link.
Post away. The kit parts are great replacements to any readyset parts.
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Old 10-06-2021, 03:32 PM
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Default It Arrived!!

Originally Posted by Arcain41
Post away. The kit parts are great replacements to any readyset parts.
Thank you, I wasnít sure if this was the right place for me to be. Anyway my Readyset arrived today. Iím currently racing 1/12GT and VTA but I really wanted something I could run at home and even dip into a little nitro off road. Now Iím going to date myself here, my last off-road Rc car was Tamiya Sandblaster....VW Bug style...this was 1982 or so I believe.
Anyway Iím super excited about seeing where nitro off road will take me. I really like my new investment, the size and weight is really impressive. It looks like my car right out of the box definitely needs some adjustments, only disappointment is it looks like someone had a hard time getting a screw in to hold the switch in place, itís replaced with a silver screw with the head stripped off. Iíll have to look into that. I did buy an Associated switch to replace the factory unit when I go to a lipo with voltage regulator.

Looking forward to get to know you folks in the forum here! Take care everyone
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:20 PM
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Default Turnbuckle Wrench?

Can someone provide a link to a nice turnbuckle wrench for this car? Naturally everything I currently have fits 1/12 & 1/10 scale.

Thanks!
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Old 10-08-2021, 05:25 AM
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Good morning, in case anyone is interested, I decided to sell my MP9 TKI4 Spec A as a slider or w/ a Novarossi engine and pipe. Buggy is like new. The Spec Aís were assembled in Japan and the diff builds are incredible.




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Old 10-08-2021, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by LoudOne
Good morning, in case anyone is interested, I decided to sell my MP9 TKI4 Spec A as a slider or w/ a Novarossi engine and pipe. Buggy is like new. The Spec Aís were assembled in Japan and the diff builds are incredible.



I want this badly and wish my life wasnít a hot mess at the moment, otherwise Iíd purchase this at this very moment.
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Old 02-21-2022, 03:02 PM
  #3057  
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Default MP9 TKI4 Shock towers

Apologies if this is the wrong place to post this lads... im new round here. Ive picked up a tki4 second hand (so it has some option parts installed that i did not purchase) and ive figured its got the high front shock tower (IF485) and the 50 shocks (IF484) to go with it. Thats all good. Although is that the same for the rear shock tower? I know they do a "short" hard rear shock tower (IFW408B) and a "high" one (IF437) with the high one requiring bigger shocks (IS116 according to the manual's parts list). I do not know if i have the high rear tower or the big rear shocks or if the rear shocks are standard with the "short" rear tower (IFW408B). I assume you should run either both short towers or both high. Reason i am asking is i seem to have to max out the rear shocks to get the ride height that i want to run whilst the front shocks are only wound down about half way.

Do I have IFW406B or IF437?
Regardless, am i running the correct shocks in the rear?

this is how much the fronts are wound down

This is how much the rears are wound down


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Old 02-22-2022, 03:32 AM
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the rear springs in the orange flavour should have 9 active coils and be 95mm in height for the high shock mount. from the photos I'm guessing you've got springs meant for the front.


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Old 02-22-2022, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Matty A
the rear springs in the orange flavour should have 9 active coils and be 95mm in height for the high shock mount. from the photos I'm guessing you've got springs meant for the front.

Thanks mate that chart is mega useful I'll save it for future reference. I didn't consider maybe the springs are wrong since the guy i bought the car from said it had been setup as mike cradock said to (and i know he knows what hes doing).

Either way i need to buy more springs as spares/tuning options.

Just to be clear (sorry I'm still getting my head round this). I do have the high rear shock tower and the bigger rear shocks and i need the big shock springs for it... Is that right?

Last edited by Max Rackstraw; 02-22-2022 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 02-22-2022, 10:40 AM
  #3060  
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Oh and ive just noticed that those part numbers for the shocks and shock towers on the spring list are different to what i have in my manual. I guess thats because its stuff for the mp10. Could i run those springs on that list with my setup (mp9 tki4)?
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