Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit >

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

Like Tree314Likes

Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

    Hide Wikipost
Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

Print Wikipost

Old 04-07-2016, 06:13 PM
  #241  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by JonnyW
Jeromerc what Fusion engine are you running? I just got a 7port ceramic. And was wondering if you ran this in the mp9 or the 5port. I can't find much info on them anywhere. On their website looks like they are outta Australia via Novarossi. He dude claimed to get killer run time with it.
Look in the nitro engine forum, Houston's Engine service he sells them and helped or actually designed them. I have ran the 3 port lightning and a 3 port lightning FM, a x5r and a x5l in buggy, I would be scared to try my X7 in a buggy, as in my truggy it is a freaking rocket. Best engine I think so far has been the X5R with a filled crank Monty set up for me last July when I went to a race with him in Washington. The X3L's were getting 10-11 minutes on a tank I think the same for the X5R but havent really timed it. If you have a heavy trigger finger then good luck taming the X7 but you won't be disappointed for sure.. Fusion engines are awesome!!
jeromerc is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 06:17 PM
  #242  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by prowlag
Guys. First time building the k car (tki4) after running mugen for the past 3 years and I'm having issues with the centre diff out drives rubbing/binding against the brake pads. Is this normal - seems to be severely effecting the drive train. Note: I have used the correct out drives.
make sure you measure how the brake pad bolts. If they are too tight they will drag, the outdrives should be tight in the rotors of you would tear them up. Also check your linkage it could cause a bind or what problem I had was my brake cams were not properly seated in the holes. Monty helped me figure that one out... If you are having dragging issues I would start with your brake cams and their holes, make sure there is nothing in them and they turn freely, I thought mine were fine but upon further inspection they weren't.
jeromerc is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 06:59 PM
  #243  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
prowlag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: The land down under.
Posts: 615
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

dont even have the linkages connected yet. backed the brake pads right off just incase they were causing the binding. its when the outdrive rotates to its longest point it scrapes the scalloped section of the brake pads.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-img_0151.jpg  
prowlag is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:24 PM
  #244  
Tech Regular
 
roblupo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 392
Default

I got the agama engine mount, could not see paying 50 bucks for a two peice mount from the 777. But I have not seen this or any after market Mont on Tki4
roblupo is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:25 PM
  #245  
Tech Regular
 
roblupo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 392
Default

Also where is best place for kyosho parts... Amain site is getting crazy to navigate... Anywhere cheaper? Besides eBay lol
roblupo is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:37 PM
  #246  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
RMKinWI's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mount Horeb, WI
Posts: 1,035
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by prowlag
dont even have the linkages connected yet. backed the brake pads right off just incase they were causing the binding. its when the outdrive rotates to its longest point it scrapes the scalloped section of the brake pads.
Put the top plate on, and see if it clears up. The standoff's may not be perfectly perpendicular, you may need to loosen up the chassis screws to get the top plate screw holes to line up. The top plate will square it all up.
RMKinWI is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:40 PM
  #247  
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
 
mourinho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

the car does not need any different mounts, the clutchbell thing people talk about is a non-issue, i replace clutch bearings after 4 or 5 races and have not had one fail..

if your constantly lawn darting no need to spend 50 dollars, m2c make a 1mm shim for like 4 dollars or something.. pretty simple

Last edited by mourinho; 04-07-2016 at 11:57 PM.
mourinho is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 07:42 PM
  #248  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by prowlag
dont even have the linkages connected yet. backed the brake pads right off just incase they were causing the binding. its when the outdrive rotates to its longest point it scrapes the scalloped section of the brake pads.
Your brake pad bolts look tight, do the pads "wiggle" at all? Also like previously said, put the top plate on as this makes everything square. The only thing I can gather from the photo is it is not square or your brake pad bolts are too tight the fit on the brake rotor looks good
jeromerc is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 10:03 PM
  #249  
Tech Regular
 
roblupo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 392
Default

I know this is a new car, and I have never run a Kyosho....switching from Mugen, but just heard about people drilling the chassis, and using Agama mounts to raise the engine. I saw where Tebo had older 777 mounts that were blue on his car at the DNC....I hope its not an issue on the TKI4....cant wait to run this car : P
roblupo is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 10:42 PM
  #250  
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,953
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Running the taller mount is a good ideal.There's a reason why Tebo runs it. I also do reccomend drilling the hole. Flaming out isn't an issue and that's not why these mods are done. There's a lot of chassis flex on the mp9 cars. The the tki4 is no different. This causes excessive clutch bell contact which is hard on clutch bearings and your engine over all. Some will disagree and that's there perogative. The designer himself drills the hole so that there will tell you something.
rcmoe is offline  
Old 04-07-2016, 11:48 PM
  #251  
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
 
jeromerc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Vietnam
Posts: 1,085
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcmoe
Running the taller mount is a good ideal.There's a reason why Tebo runs it. I also do reccomend drilling the hole. Flaming out isn't an issue and that's not why these mods are done. There's a lot of chassis flex on the mp9 cars. The the tki4 is no different. This causes excessive clutch bell contact which is hard on clutch bearings and your engine over all. Some will disagree and that's there perogative. The designer himself drills the hole so that there will tell you something.
Yes Yuichi Kanai does drill his car.....
jeromerc is offline  
Old 04-08-2016, 03:31 AM
  #252  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 154
Default

Originally Posted by mourinho
remove and fully compress the springs a few times, they will bed in after your first run.
It works. Thanks.
xtaiji is offline  
Old 04-08-2016, 03:48 AM
  #253  
Tech Regular
 
roblupo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 392
Default

Well this being a new car, if YK is drilling a hole in the chassis then when he designed this one should have fixed it or designed it in it... Lol we will see how it goes =)
roblupo is offline  
Old 04-08-2016, 04:02 AM
  #254  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
 
BigInJapan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 747
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

I use this, no clutch bell issues, and traction is unaffected in my experience
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-image.jpeg  
gerry6112 likes this.
BigInJapan is offline  
Old 04-08-2016, 05:00 AM
  #255  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 534
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default This is all you would need

http://m2cracing.com/product.sc;jses...&categoryId=70

Like Mourihno stated earlier
JonnyW is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.