314LikesKyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
11-05-2018, 09:06 AM - Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:
Shocks IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons IF471-01 Front Shock Body IF470-01 Rear Shock Body IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial IFW154 Boots IF346-05C Shock End Set Wing IF491BK Wing IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay Rear End IFH006W Wheel IF490 HUB IF490-01 Hub Insert IF492 Shock Pin IF423HB Rear Arm IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear Front End IF489 Steering Rod Set IF488 Knuckles IF487H Front Arm IFW458 Hard Lower Pin IFW425 93MM CVD IF286 Hard Upper Rod IF486 Lower Susp Holder IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard) IF446B Ackerman Arm IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft Other IF469B Filter 97035LW-13 Clutch Bell IF453B Body Mount IFW107GM Hexes W300910 Washer IF443B Center Diff Plate IF444C Tank IF479B Radio Box 96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim IF481B Fuel Tank Stay IFW336GM Wheelnut IFB008 TKI4 Body IFD403W TKI4 Decal --------------------------- Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is : IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.) They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458) --------------------------- Optional Updates / New Parts: IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9) IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017) Optional Alu front hubs: - IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones) - IFW436 - 16 deg - IFW474 - 17.5 deg - IFW461 - 19deg M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610 Body Options New Bitty Force Body Tebo's Build Videos Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread _____________________ Baseline setups from Joonas.   _____________________ Shock build with vented cap and compensator. You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape. Setup Sheet and Tuning The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense. Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example: Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked. Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange. Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified). Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance. Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there. Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask. Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup. Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic. Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre. Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything. Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do. Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more. Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both. Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height. Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction). Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch. Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible. 
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02-13-2018, 07:43 PM
#2296
Sorry fellas been away the last few days and havnt been able to get a photo for use, its doing my head in. Pulled it apart and re done it a few times.
I know the towers push downwards on the gearbox ive built kyo kits before. But where the 2 halves meet the front was a good 2mm higher thean the back right where the bottom of the tower sits, was not possible to screw it in unless you wanted to cross thread it at a mad angle.
Anyways heres some photos
I know the towers push downwards on the gearbox ive built kyo kits before. But where the 2 halves meet the front was a good 2mm higher thean the back right where the bottom of the tower sits, was not possible to screw it in unless you wanted to cross thread it at a mad angle.
Anyways heres some photos
02-13-2018, 08:58 PM
#2297
ive got a few hundred kyosho builds under my belt, every so often the ackerman plate comes close to bulkhead but never had one rub to the point of affecting steering rack / i also never use full droop in front
Last edited by houston; 02-14-2018 at 02:54 PM.
02-14-2018, 08:35 AM
#2298
To those that say this kit has NO binding, I want the batch of cars y'all are getting. I'm not sure what happened in the pic above. But, I have had to file or dremel a small amount on the diff case above the bearing/under the ackerman plate on 3 of 3. Maybe I'm anal, because it wasnt ever horrible but I could feel it dragging at full droop. I also used to dremel the arms where the steering knuckle would hit at full droop ( more so the nut that holds the turnbuckle) till my dad told me to run a button head screw from the bottom of the knuckle with a nut on top. That gives a few mm clearance as well. Maybe the guy dremeled a lot to much in the wrong area? Hard to say with the car apart in the pics.
02-15-2018, 12:59 AM
#2300
NEED CONVERSION HELP PLEASE
I need to know what 503gf/mm {Gram force/millimeter}, converts to kyosho in a a spring rate, 16mm big bore shock//that's where this big boy came from, it's hard as a rock!!!!I
Can't figure out what gf/mm converts to our KG/mm if kg/mm is how kyosho rates there spring strengths, if not I need to know formula please, thanks in advance!
Can't figure out what gf/mm converts to our KG/mm if kg/mm is how kyosho rates there spring strengths, if not I need to know formula please, thanks in advance!
02-15-2018, 04:56 AM
#2302
Sorry fellas been away the last few days and havnt been able to get a photo for use, its doing my head in. Pulled it apart and re done it a few times.
I know the towers push downwards on the gearbox ive built kyo kits before. But where the 2 halves meet the front was a good 2mm higher thean the back right where the bottom of the tower sits, was not possible to screw it in unless you wanted to cross thread it at a mad angle.
I know the towers push downwards on the gearbox ive built kyo kits before. But where the 2 halves meet the front was a good 2mm higher thean the back right where the bottom of the tower sits, was not possible to screw it in unless you wanted to cross thread it at a mad angle.
Is there supposed to be spacers?
(haven´t touched my tki3 for 6 months, don´t remember for sure,just trying to help).
02-15-2018, 08:20 AM
#2303
Iirc the bearings ride on the post that has a small lip. I don't think I've seen shims there in the manual.
02-15-2018, 06:43 PM
#2304
I have been waiting this! Wonder how much it will cost.
http://www.neobuggy.net/2018/02/14/k...n/#more-101714
http://www.neobuggy.net/2018/02/14/k...n/#more-101714
02-15-2018, 06:48 PM
#2305
I have been waiting this! Wonder how much it will cost.
Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 10th Anniversary Special Edition -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 10th Anniversary Special Edition -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
02-15-2018, 06:56 PM
#2307
Would be worth it for $799.00. Comes with the new hard coated shocks and many other items. I just wish they would include the hard anodized chassis. Funny thing is that you can't even get the dark brown non anodized version other than in the kit. When you order a replacement chassis you get the hard anodized version, same for the shock towers.
02-16-2018, 02:55 AM
#2308
Anyone going to DNC that may have a R/H steering knuckle I could buy? Just found mine stripped. I could over night a set but that's not cheap at all. Lol.
02-16-2018, 06:30 AM
#2309
Tech Master
Regarding the rubbing of ackermanplate. Test if it rubbs after you screw on the top plate;-)
