Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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#1921
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Now I run the 13 carriers with b block and knuckles from the rtr car. That should be tki3 geometry. The steering is more predictable this way and I have not broken any of the front inserts like I was with the tki4 front end.
#1922
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I like the 16 degree hubs but if the plastic 17.5 carriers had been around when I got my car I would have saved money and bought them instead.
Now I run the 13 carriers with b block and knuckles from the rtr car. That should be tki3 geometry. The steering is more predictable this way and I have not broken any of the front inserts like I was with the tki4 front end.
Now I run the 13 carriers with b block and knuckles from the rtr car. That should be tki3 geometry. The steering is more predictable this way and I have not broken any of the front inserts like I was with the tki4 front end.
The out of the box set-up worked good for me except for in the rhythm section where it caused the front end to pop-up making this section very difficult to handle consistently. I am hoping the the increased kick-up that the TKI3 b block will provide will cure this problem.
#1923
Tech Initiate
Shock tower??
Has anyone tried the m-s and h-s shock towers?
#1924
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I tried the 17.5 blocks with the -1 degree insert and I didn't like them as well as the 13 degree carriers. I just put the TKI3 b block on my car and I'll try it out next weekend and see how I like.
The out of the box set-up worked good for me except for in the rhythm section where it caused the front end to pop-up making this section very difficult to handle consistently. I am hoping the the increased kick-up that the TKI3 b block will provide will cure this problem.
The out of the box set-up worked good for me except for in the rhythm section where it caused the front end to pop-up making this section very difficult to handle consistently. I am hoping the the increased kick-up that the TKI3 b block will provide will cure this problem.
#1927
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Outdoor track with pl lockdowns or blockades. Same thing on indoor track with pl electrons. Stock pistons and springs. Max kick up on b block. Max caster on hub carriers. Middle holes on shock towers and inside on arms. It was not track or setup specific. It did exactly what I would expect with too little caster. Worked slightly better on the tight track than the more open one.
#1930
1 thing I'm noticing coming from a d815-17. Is the Kyosho is a bit more tire sensitive........seems like when the kcar has the correct tire it's spot on money. But if you don't have the tire you get a good push......... The D8 was not as sensitive, but then the d8 was not as good on the right tire It's a give n take
#1932
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Outdoor track with pl lockdowns or blockades. Same thing on indoor track with pl electrons. Stock pistons and springs. Max kick up on b block. Max caster on hub carriers. Middle holes on shock towers and inside on arms. It was not track or setup specific. It did exactly what I would expect with too little caster. Worked slightly better on the tight track than the more open one.
#1933
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Interesting post's guys. I hit the dirt this Saturday with my tki4. I built the car all stock with just a different diff combo and shock pistons. I was a bit worried the car would be a handful after reading some remarks in here. I never felt uncomfortable with the car. Track was kind of beat up, a little dust in some spots but good grip in the line. This is a coming from a guy who hasnt touched a car in 6 months and raced in 2 years lol. I will experiment with the old B block and knuckles from the tki3. Just so i know.
#1934
Tech Master
If the car push onpower, go up in centerdiff oil or try 3 degrees of antisquat
#1935
Tech Rookie
Hi, im new to the TKI4 and slowly settling in after trying to get the Xray to work on dirt for too long.
Anyway, I raced a club race this week-end and in the last 3rd of the race I suddenly got into the groove and nailed 6 consecutive fast laps with about 1% consistency. I normally get the fastest laps in first 3rd of a race but didn’t think much of it.
When going through the car after the race I noticed that 2 of the forward most screws attaching the radio tray to the chassis were lost, and the middle one 50% unscrewed. In hindsight my theory is that the added flex was good for me/my setup/the track etc. Strangely I nailed the largest jump MUCH better and I was way more consistent in the tight corners (not so strange). The bump handling and high speed sections felt the same.
Any ideas on how to achieve more flex or a similar feel / behavior in the car with all the radio tray screws firmly secured?
Anyway, I raced a club race this week-end and in the last 3rd of the race I suddenly got into the groove and nailed 6 consecutive fast laps with about 1% consistency. I normally get the fastest laps in first 3rd of a race but didn’t think much of it.
When going through the car after the race I noticed that 2 of the forward most screws attaching the radio tray to the chassis were lost, and the middle one 50% unscrewed. In hindsight my theory is that the added flex was good for me/my setup/the track etc. Strangely I nailed the largest jump MUCH better and I was way more consistent in the tight corners (not so strange). The bump handling and high speed sections felt the same.
Any ideas on how to achieve more flex or a similar feel / behavior in the car with all the radio tray screws firmly secured?
Last edited by Bernard B; 09-05-2017 at 09:08 AM.