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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 06-27-2017, 03:40 PM
  #1711  
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Originally Posted by Team_Orange
Use a Losi air filter set up and your problems are solved. I've had the issue of the air filter hung up on the linkages. Not a fan of using the Losi parts but it makes things easier and trouble free.
But TLR-style filter have surface area almost 1/2 compared to Kyo.
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:50 PM
  #1712  
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
But TLR-style filter have surface area almost 1/2 compared to Kyo.
If our engines were ever air starved, TLR, HB, AE (all having won major events recently) wouldnt use that design.
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Old 06-27-2017, 07:08 PM
  #1713  
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Originally Posted by rallyebmx
I have both the .8 and 1mm thick kyosho bodies. I have to cram down the stock air filter to get body on. Is this how they are rolling with this? Or are there any tricks?(besides running different body or air filter ). Seems like Kanai forgot an air filter was going under this body
i use a 1mm thick body. i have spaced the front body mount up with a couple plastic spacers and a longer screw. gives more room for fuel hose too. still rubs but not much. check your filter is on straight too i.e horizontal
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:53 AM
  #1714  
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Trying to decide which pistons to purchase. Can someone explain the difference between these pistons? Some are black, some have angled holes. Machined vs stamped? They are all 1.3x8 or 1.2x8.

1.2x8 pistons
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...405-128/p37352
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...347-128/p33545

1.3x8 pistons
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...347-138/p22928
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...405-138/p37353
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:19 AM
  #1715  
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The angled hole pistons give you different bound/rebound rates
"This angle delivers smoother function during normal use but also provides resistance on landings."

You gonna be @ the deuce Saturday?
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:21 AM
  #1716  
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Currently run Mugen and have been contemplating on going to Kyosho. Been racing for a year now and have greatly improved, B main and A main at some big events such as PNB and SIC.

Anywho to make the story short, I keep hearing Kyosho is a much easier vehicle to drive. So I've been thinking of getting one. I don't have access to trying one out because no one runs them here.

Thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:03 AM
  #1717  
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I think the best answer is that if you are improving and continue to improve, I would stick with what you have.

Unless you are getting a sponsorship, it sounds like you are already on the right track. I had a Kyosho and just switched to HB racing. Kyosho's drive awesome, but I do think that they are less forgiving when you make mistakes (from a durability stand point). Just my opinion and from someone who has owned just about every brand at some point.
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:10 AM
  #1718  
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New updated version of the LR-HT setup, when there's more than a tick for setup options means that you should try both see which you like more, particularly the Ackerman ones.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-lt-hr-setup-starting-base.jpg  
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:39 AM
  #1719  
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Originally Posted by pl_unc86
I think the best answer is that if you are improving and continue to improve, I would stick with what you have.

Unless you are getting a sponsorship, it sounds like you are already on the right track. I had a Kyosho and just switched to HB racing. Kyosho's drive awesome, but I do think that they are less forgiving when you make mistakes (from a durability stand point). Just my opinion and from someone who has owned just about every brand at some point.
Thanks for your reply. As far as being sponsored, I don't see a real benefit unless I was starting from scratch, which I'm not. I can sell my vehicles that are still currently new and unran for roughly what it will cost me to get the K cars (lots of option parts installed on the mugens) so only thing I would be losing on is the spare parts I have gathered over the year.

As for improving, would I not benefit more from a buggy that's easier to drive?
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Old 06-29-2017, 11:55 AM
  #1720  
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer
Thanks for your reply. As far as being sponsored, I don't see a real benefit unless I was starting from scratch, which I'm not. I can sell my vehicles that are still currently new and unran for roughly what it will cost me to get the K cars (lots of option parts installed on the mugens) so only thing I would be losing on is the spare parts I have gathered over the year.

As for improving, would I not benefit more from a buggy that's easier to drive?
I have found that a car that is twitchy/hard to drive usually carries more corner speed. I also think it takes some time (1 year or more) to get your best results with any car.

I'm not trying to steer you away from Kyosho because I think it's a great car. It does have more stability than most cars I've driven but it really responds well to setup changes.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:23 PM
  #1721  
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth
New updated version of the LR-HT setup, when there's more than a tick for setup options means that you should try both see which you like more, particularly the Ackerman ones.
what is the desired change when going between the inner and outer holes on the rear tower camber link?

and are you serious about 2 degrees rear toe with HRC pill location? good way to generate zero traction imo.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer
Currently run Mugen and have been contemplating on going to Kyosho. Been racing for a year now and have greatly improved, B main and A main at some big events such as PNB and SIC.

Anywho to make the story short, I keep hearing Kyosho is a much easier vehicle to drive. So I've been thinking of getting one. I don't have access to trying one out because no one runs them here.

Thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
one does not simply choose the K car.. the K car chooses you!

when you drive it you will know
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:18 PM
  #1723  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
what is the desired change when going between the inner and outer holes on the rear tower camber link?

and are you serious about 2 degrees rear toe with HRC pill location? good way to generate zero traction imo.
The outer column on the shock tower has more camber gain without messing with roll centre height. Something to try, nothing more as the MP9 doesn't need more rear camber gain, at least maybe not but with the long upper arm the setup calls better safe than sorry.

Common complaint with that setup is too much rear traction in any case I know that if the traction on power is lacking I can go down one hole on the rear upper arm mounting or do the right thing and:
-using the hub height high then use the lower row on the hub for the upper arm and using the hub low then use the upper row while keeping hole #8(if not mistaken) on the shock tower.

In hindsight I should have recommended that way from the beginning since I knew that from years ago. Updated and corrected the setup. If there is a lack of rear traction then something is very wrong on my recommended start and further inspection is needed.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit-lr-ht-v2.jpg  

Last edited by 30Tooth; 09-10-2017 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by NoobRacer
Currently run Mugen and have been contemplating on going to Kyosho. Been racing for a year now and have greatly improved, B main and A main at some big events such as PNB and SIC.

Anywho to make the story short, I keep hearing Kyosho is a much easier vehicle to drive. So I've been thinking of getting one. I don't have access to trying one out because no one runs them here.

Thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
Having owned both to me the Mugen was harder to drive because of my driving style. It likes to be driven hard/strapped and I can do this in spirts. It's to either catch up to a pack or try to pull away. Usually for a few laps or so. Not for an entire main event or an entire qualifier. The car to me was a money pit to get all of the parts to duplicate a factory setup I was at the price of the K car and all the needed Mugen hopup's come with the K-car. Again....different driving styles will show different results. I drive smooth and laid back and it's nice to have a car that can be driven hard when needed and is still fast and controllable when you just want to turn laps. I'm no Mayfield so I don't need to go out and beat the world but I do want a car that matches me against other drivers of the same skill level and then I can just work on outdriving them or beat them in the pits. Either way I enjoymyself and finishing under power without a flameout is a win/win to me. Don't get me wrong I have a competitive side but you have to take a step back at times and remember the fun of the hobby. Tire wear seems about the same on both cars. I'm still trying to get use to no clunk in the fuel tank as flips on practice days result in flameouts if a marshal doesn't get to the car in time. Sitting and chatting with Jared at the Manufacturers Cup in Chico was nice. Newbie or seasoned pro he answered EVERYONE'S questions.
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:37 PM
  #1725  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I'm still trying to get use to no clunk in the fuel tank as flips on practice days result in flameouts if a marshal doesn't get to the car in time.
my car will idle for minimum 40 seconds before revs even start to rise

the tank is designed to be used with the big stock filter and around 20cm of fuel line, are you using these?
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