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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit

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Old 11-05-2018, 09:06 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
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Last edit by: 30Tooth
Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:

Shocks

IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons
IF471-01 Front Shock Body
IF470-01 Rear Shock Body
IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial
IFW154 Boots
IF346-05C Shock End Set

Wing

IF491BK Wing
IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay

Rear End

IFH006W Wheel
IF490 HUB
IF490-01 Hub Insert
IF492 Shock Pin
IF423HB Rear Arm
IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear

Front End

IF489 Steering Rod Set
IF488 Knuckles
IF487H Front Arm
IFW458 Hard Lower Pin
IFW425 93MM CVD
IF286 Hard Upper Rod
IF486 Lower Susp Holder
IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard)
IF446B Ackerman Arm
IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft


Other

IF469B Filter
97035LW-13 Clutch Bell
IF453B Body Mount
IFW107GM Hexes
W300910 Washer
IF443B Center Diff Plate
IF444C Tank
IF479B Radio Box
96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim
IF481B Fuel Tank Stay
IFW336GM Wheelnut
IFB008 TKI4 Body
IFD403W TKI4 Decal

---------------------------

Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is :

IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.)

They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458)
---------------------------

Optional Updates / New Parts:

IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9)

IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017)

Optional Alu front hubs:
- IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones)
- IFW436 - 16 deg
- IFW474 - 17.5 deg
- IFW461 - 19deg

M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610

Body Options
New Bitty Force Body

Tebo's Build Videos

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3

Video #4

Video #5

Video #6

Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread
_____________________

Baseline setups from Joonas.




_____________________

Shock build with vented cap and compensator.

You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape.

Setup Sheet and Tuning

The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense.
Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example:

Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked.

Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange.

Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified).

Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2-2.5 on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance.

Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there.

Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90 to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask.

Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup.

Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic.

Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre.

Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9 of kick up to be better than 9 of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything.

Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do.

Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more.

Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both.

Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height.

Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction).

Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch.

Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible.

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Old 06-22-2017, 09:09 AM
  #1696  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
what is the correlation between flywheel diameter and diff spacing?

the stock flywheel is 32mm, if you run a 34mm flywheel it will be 1mm closer to the ground. if the flywheel touches the ground hard enough you will flame. to avoid this you can space the engine/flywheel/clutch up 1mm to compensate, not the centre diff.
Just getting into nitro, and 1/8 in general, but I would think if I moved the engine up 1mm I would personally want to move the center (centre) diff up 1mm also. Isn't that the point of this parts tree?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoif466/p37365
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Adamska27
Just getting into nitro, and 1/8 in general, but I would think if I moved the engine up 1mm I would personally want to move the center (centre) diff up 1mm also. Isn't that the point of this parts tree?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoif466/p37365
There are different spur gears that you can run in order to get the gear ratio you want for the track you are on. The larger spur gears will hang out of the bottom of the car or nearly hang out. That is the reason you have extra spacers so that you can shim up the center diff housing to keep the spur gear up and out of harms way.

I always shim my center diff housing to the lowest safe height in order to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. This is why Kyosho uses a 32mm flywheel to keep the Center of Gravity low.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamska27
Just getting into nitro, and 1/8 in general, but I would think if I moved the engine up 1mm I would personally want to move the center (centre) diff up 1mm also. Isn't that the point of this parts tree?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoif466/p37365
as winners circle has correctly point out, those spacers are to compensate for the different spur sizes / track roughness and chassis wear.

ideally you dont space anything up and keep it all low as possible. the stock 46t spur does not need to be spaced up at all on a new chassis, however if you run on a rocky/gravel track you may choose to.

the only reason you would consider spacing the engine up is if you want to run a 34mm flywheel or to avoid clutch bell strike.

to answer your question directly, if you space the engine up, no you do not need to space the diff up also, you just need to re-set correct mesh.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:43 PM
  #1699  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
as winners circle has correctly point out, those spacers are to compensate for the different spur sizes / track roughness and chassis wear.

ideally you dont space anything up and keep it all low as possible. the stock 46t spur does not need to be spaced up at all on a new chassis, however if you run on a rocky/gravel track you may choose to.

the only reason you would consider spacing the engine up is if you want to run a 34mm flywheel or to avoid clutch bell strike.

to answer your question directly, if you space the engine up, no you do not need to space the diff up also, you just need to re-set correct mesh.
From Tebo's build videos, he shims the diff up always, as far as i understood. check em out, they're in the wiki.
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:30 AM
  #1700  
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Folks, TKI 3 arms, affects track width only yes? Do i need anything else to run them like front upper arms or driveshafts or anything? Or just plug and play?
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Gavel
Folks, TKI 3 arms, affects track width only yes? Do i need anything else to run them like front upper arms or driveshafts or anything? Or just plug and play?
correct. nothing else needed.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Winner's Circle
There are different spur gears that you can run in order to get the gear ratio you want for the track you are on. The larger spur gears will hang out of the bottom of the car or nearly hang out. That is the reason you have extra spacers so that you can shim up the center diff housing to keep the spur gear up and out of harms way.

I always shim my center diff housing to the lowest safe height in order to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. This is why Kyosho uses a 32mm flywheel to keep the Center of Gravity low.
OK, thanks for the info
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:57 PM
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Anyone looking for a TKI4 brand new built and very nice look me up.
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Old 06-26-2017, 01:03 PM
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Anyone know where I can get the 4x8mm flanged engine mount screws for the underside? It appears KYO only offers them with the actual engine plate.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoif431/p34706
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by skrichter
Anyone know where I can get the 4x8mm flanged engine mount screws for the underside? It appears KYO only offers them with the actual engine plate.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoif431/p34706
here you go KYO1 S24008F Kyosho Cap Screw Flanged 4x8mm 5
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:30 PM
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Default Ill fitting body?

I have both the .8 and 1mm thick kyosho bodies. I have to cram down the stock air filter to get body on. Is this how they are rolling with this? Or are there any tricks?(besides running different body or air filter ). Seems like Kanai forgot an air filter was going under this body
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rallyebmx
I have both the .8 and 1mm thick kyosho bodies. I have to cram down the stock air filter to get body on. Is this how they are rolling with this? Or are there any tricks?(besides running different body or air filter ). Seems like Kanai forgot an air filter was going under this body
the body rests on the raised parts of the plastic filter ends but nothing needs to be 'crammed'.

i put either a layer of shoe goo or aluminium tape on the body at the filter location to protect the paint and have never had a problem.

obviously kanai didn't forget the filter, but he did manage to make one of the lowest profile, sleek and sexy bodies ever for an 8th scale buggy!
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Old 06-26-2017, 10:59 PM
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I agree, like the looks of body. Also like stock air filter. But the body will not rest on body posts. It's suspended by air filter. I then press on body and get clips in. Doesn't feel good. Worried about linkage and brakes. It's an OS if that matters
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:08 AM
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Its ok, just put any kind of protect tape onto body in that place where filter pushes it.
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Old 06-27-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rallyebmx
I agree, like the looks of body. Also like stock air filter. But the body will not rest on body posts. It's suspended by air filter. I then press on body and get clips in. Doesn't feel good. Worried about linkage and brakes. It's an OS if that matters
Use a Losi air filter set up and your problems are solved. I've had the issue of the air filter hung up on the linkages. Not a fan of using the Losi parts but it makes things easier and trouble free.
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