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Old 06-17-2016, 04:37 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by RCSureStart
Hoping someone can help... I'm in the process of building my 8ight-T and according to the manual the shims for the rear gear box are identical to that in the buggy (2 x .25 on left, 1 x .25 & .1 on right). But having followed this the gears are grinding like mad and there's hardly any movement.

Has anyone else experienced this? If so what shims did you end up using?

I know these can be tight until breaking in but just feels a little too tight for comfort and worried I may shred the gears when I fire the Truggy up.

Help is appreciated.
Leave as is. This is normal and should be. I've built these kits time and time again. You won't shread your gears trust me. I've asked the same thing when I first started with 8ights and Team drivers all stated do not deviate from this recommendation.
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:27 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by David McLean
Ok - so I get the spring kit and the front is like above. However in the rear:
White, Red one stripe and Red with two stripes??? NO PINK??

Has anyone got this in the rear spring kit?? Is this correct or did they just package it wrong??

Thank you

I also got a double Red in my rear kit. Did they run out of pink paint?
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:16 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by forrestgump_22
I also got a double Red in my rear kit. Did they run out of pink paint?
The red springs in the rear has the softest compression, then double stripe red and then white the stiffest based on my feel. On the front the red felt stiffer than white even though TLR key says otherwise.

I also had front white springs with 37.5wt and the car was definitely too aggressive. Dropped to 35wt as well. Trying 30wt rear with double stripe red.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:47 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by RCSureStart
Hoping someone can help... I'm in the process of building my 8ight-T and according to the manual the shims for the rear gear box are identical to that in the buggy (2 x .25 on left, 1 x .25 & .1 on right). But having followed this the gears are grinding like mad and there's hardly any movement.

Has anyone else experienced this? If so what shims did you end up using?

I know these can be tight until breaking in but just feels a little too tight for comfort and worried I may shred the gears when I fire the Truggy up.

Help is appreciated.
The gears are meshed tight and will break in after a few tanks.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:48 AM
  #170  
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Looks like horizon updated their description on the spring part number, now there is a listing for the double red spring that comes in the kit.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:26 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by RCSureStart
Hoping someone can help... I'm in the process of building my 8ight-T and according to the manual the shims for the rear gear box are identical to that in the buggy (2 x .25 on left, 1 x .25 & .1 on right). But having followed this the gears are grinding like mad and there's hardly any movement.

Has anyone else experienced this? If so what shims did you end up using?

I know these can be tight until breaking in but just feels a little too tight for comfort and worried I may shred the gears when I fire the Truggy up.

Help is appreciated.
I also have no shims at all on the left side. I put a few shims on the right to loosen up the mesh as much as possible and I still had a pretty tight high spot.
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Old 06-25-2016, 04:59 AM
  #172  
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4.0 Rear Springs

Pink Spring - 5.4lbs
Double Red Spring - 5.6lbs
White Spring - 5.8lbs

4.0 Front Springs

Pink Spring - 5.4lbs
Red Spring - 5.6lbs
White Spring - 5.8lbs
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Old 06-28-2016, 09:10 AM
  #173  
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Hey guys. Need some advice. I know this is purely subjective but I just pulled the trigger on the 8ight-T 4.0 and am obviously new to the nitro truggy world. I need some help picking out a good race quality engine for it, Right now I have a Protek Samurai that I can slap in there to get me around the track. Love that mill in my buggy but not sure I can compete with it in a truggy. I'm open to all opinions. I am partial to the O.S. Speed B2101 that I have in my buggy right now.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:16 AM
  #174  
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What's your driving experience? AJ ran a Samurai for a long time in his HB..

It's not fast , but it works well..

He runs a Spec 2 now.. It's Stupid fast..
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:26 AM
  #175  
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I'd say I'm an intermediate driver. Usually bottom half of A main.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:27 AM
  #176  
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I was eye balling a Spec II. Heard great things about it. 2090 pipe?
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:56 PM
  #177  
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I run a spec II with a 2090 pipe and a nova 41001 header. It's been a killer combo for years

I like the picco 5TR team spec with a 2099 pipe combo as well
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:47 AM
  #178  
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Thanks Tix. What do you guys think of the Picco 5TX
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:44 AM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Bxr126
Hey guys. Need some advice. I know this is purely subjective but I just pulled the trigger on the 8ight-T 4.0 and am obviously new to the nitro truggy world. I need some help picking out a good race quality engine for it, Right now I have a Protek Samurai that I can slap in there to get me around the track. Love that mill in my buggy but not sure I can compete with it in a truggy. I'm open to all opinions. I am partial to the O.S. Speed B2101 that I have in my buggy right now.
What's your budget? If you are looking for a deal, this thing is an animal:
http://novarossidirect.com/PALOMA-21LIMITED_p_3222.html
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Old 06-29-2016, 05:46 AM
  #180  
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This one is a good one too. Killer price!
http://novarossidirect.com/BONITO-21-7XLB_p_3209.html
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