TLR 8ight 4.0
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#1456
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
So, I just picked up a used 3.0 which has a few upgrades.
Generally, it needs some rebuilding with the drive/CV shaft pins, outdrives and cups...
Is it possible to use the 4.0 drive boots on my 3.0?
Or if not, can anyone recommend upgraded drives? Maybe universals? Or is it still better going with the standard dogbones ..?
Thanls
Generally, it needs some rebuilding with the drive/CV shaft pins, outdrives and cups...
Is it possible to use the 4.0 drive boots on my 3.0?
Or if not, can anyone recommend upgraded drives? Maybe universals? Or is it still better going with the standard dogbones ..?
Thanls
#1457
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I have all three sets for my 4.0, the dog bones are best but wear out fast. But they work the best. The new driveshafts in the tuning kit are really good in bumps and hold up the best but are expensive and u can’t use the boots. The stock 4.0 shafts have to have that collar to use the boots and they are different then the 3.0. the boots are not an improvement because they slow down your drivetrain a little.
Last edited by Matt Piva; 11-05-2018 at 05:33 PM.
#1458
Tech Initiate
Thanks for the reply guys...
I'll replace the cups and drive pins.
Going thru my 3.0, there are a lot of worn out drive parts. But what I find a little disconcerting, is how the parts are wearing...
For example, the axle drive cups show wear on the shaft that rides INSIDE the hub carriers, as if the cup shaft was spinning inside the inner bearing race. Same goes with the outdrives on the diffs. Same goes with the front A-arm pivot bushings. They've worn out the arms instead of the shaft wearing out the bushing! Thankfully the arms are cheap...
Another good example, which brings me to my next question...the shock caps. They have bushings in them, BUT my cap mounting holes are all elongated from the bushing play. I have to replace the expensive cups instead of the cheap bushings!
So question, I assume it's okay to go with the 4.0 bleeder caps as long as I get the 4.0 bushings as well, seeing as I have to replace the caps anyway...?
As far as rebuilding these worn parts, I'm gonna use tiny amounts of Loctite or maybe a touch of silicone where the bushings mount on the O.D. to ensure the moving parts work as designed.
I'll replace the cups and drive pins.
Going thru my 3.0, there are a lot of worn out drive parts. But what I find a little disconcerting, is how the parts are wearing...
For example, the axle drive cups show wear on the shaft that rides INSIDE the hub carriers, as if the cup shaft was spinning inside the inner bearing race. Same goes with the outdrives on the diffs. Same goes with the front A-arm pivot bushings. They've worn out the arms instead of the shaft wearing out the bushing! Thankfully the arms are cheap...
Another good example, which brings me to my next question...the shock caps. They have bushings in them, BUT my cap mounting holes are all elongated from the bushing play. I have to replace the expensive cups instead of the cheap bushings!
So question, I assume it's okay to go with the 4.0 bleeder caps as long as I get the 4.0 bushings as well, seeing as I have to replace the caps anyway...?
As far as rebuilding these worn parts, I'm gonna use tiny amounts of Loctite or maybe a touch of silicone where the bushings mount on the O.D. to ensure the moving parts work as designed.
#1459
Tech Initiate
Sorry...checked the OP and saw that I also need the standoffs....
All good
All good
#1460
Tech Initiate
So cross referencing the parts that I need with the 4.0 parts, I managed to upgrade to the 4.0 front spindles and carriers, rear carriers and CV axles F/R, the bleeder shock caps (and mounting hardware) and of course, drive boots.
It cost me less than $30 more than if I were to stick with the 3.0 parts. Well worth it...
It cost me less than $30 more than if I were to stick with the 3.0 parts. Well worth it...
#1461
Tech Initiate
Assembling front knuckle... I think this is how the instructions recommend the spindle height shims?
Is this hiw the team guys are setup?
Is this hiw the team guys are setup?
#1462
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Not a team guy but we always have run them the spindles high or opposite of what you have them. It seems to give more steering in the high position. The high location was very Similar to when we use to run truggy spindle carriers on the 3.0. I believed that's what the 4.0 is based off of just with up or down adjustment.
#1463
Tech Initiate
Not a team guy but we always have run them the spindles high or opposite of what you have them. It seems to give more steering in the high position. The high location was very Similar to when we use to run truggy spindle carriers on the 3.0. I believed that's what the 4.0 is based off of just with up or down adjustment.
#1464
Tech Initiate
Just rebuilt the front diff... And I'm wondering why the flange bearings are so sloppy....
It's as if they aren't captured in the diff housing tightly.
If I put them in one of the housing halfs, it looks right, snug.
But when the two halfs are bolted together, the bearing ID isn't being held.
It's as if they aren't captured in the diff housing tightly.
If I put them in one of the housing halfs, it looks right, snug.
But when the two halfs are bolted together, the bearing ID isn't being held.
#1465
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Hey guy what’s a pretty upper quality of bearings I could get for my 4.0? I’ve tried the standard bearing kit but want to try something new. I’m looking for a mid upper quality to upper quality bearing, not afraid to look at individual bearings and even really high quality bearings for certain areas of the kit. I would really like to have a great set up threw out my buggy!
#1466
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Hey guy what’s a pretty upper quality of bearings I could get for my 4.0? I’ve tried the standard bearing kit but want to try something new. I’m looking for a mid upper quality to upper quality bearing, not afraid to look at individual bearings and even really high quality bearings for certain areas of the kit. I would really like to have a great set up threw out my buggy!
For the clutch use TKO bearings they are about 3-3.20 a piece and well worth it!
#1467
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Ive seen those before, great value for a decent bearing im sure but compared to the standard bearing they are half the price and I’m looking for something that will be better then the stock bearing. I clean and lube my bearings a lot so the seals need to last. I havnt had bad luck with the stock bearings but they don’t seem to keep the dirt out that good, awhile ago I tried a set of tko for the entire car and those seemed to be a little worse. I’m just wondering if certain bearings can keep the drivetrain a little bit more free of dirt.
#1468
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
Ive seen those before, great value for a decent bearing im sure but compared to the standard bearing they are half the price and I’m looking for something that will be better then the stock bearing. I clean and lube my bearings a lot so the seals need to last. I havnt had bad luck with the stock bearings but they don’t seem to keep the dirt out that good, awhile ago I tried a set of tko for the entire car and those seemed to be a little worse. I’m just wondering if certain bearings can keep the drivetrain a little bit more free of dirt.
#1470
you must be professional driver knowing brand new bearing not perfect. I don’t have time to clean every bearing and oil.