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TLR 8ight 4.0

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Old 07-09-2016, 05:15 PM   -   Wikipost
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:31 AM
  #751  
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thanks for the help on oils. btw. bitty nailed that body. finally no more broken nose pieces lol. car had a spec 2 in it and now an xzb version 2. both have gobbs of power. makes sence. cant wait to test it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Gavel
Could anyone explain what i could expect to change going from short too long ackerman plate?
Going from short to long, you will experience less initial turn in. This is compensated by running a lot of toe out. The longer Ackerman plate possibly provides smoother steering

Does any company offer a 'medium' Ackerman plate?
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Old 07-07-2016, 01:46 AM
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I wonder, im running 10k centre diff oil, if i went down to say, 7k, would i get more on power steering? In my head lower centre oil means more power to the front to 'pull' the car through the corner instead of the rear pushing it through. In my head, my heads not very reliable
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Old 07-07-2016, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Gavel
I wonder, im running 10k centre diff oil, if i went down to say, 7k, would i get more on power steering? In my head lower centre oil means more power to the front to 'pull' the car through the corner instead of the rear pushing it through. In my head, my heads not very reliable
Thicker center will give more on power steering, less off power steering. Thinner oil won't have the acceleration that a thicker oil, but will be easier to drive in most cases, especially on a loose track.
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:31 AM
  #755  
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Originally Posted by mv91pony
thanks for the help on oils. btw. bitty nailed that body. finally no more broken nose pieces lol. car had a spec 2 in it and now an xzb version 2. both have gobbs of power. makes sence. cant wait to test it.
Thank you, exactly we were so tired to see original stock body broken after 1st day on the track that we decided to fix the problem of the front nose by separating it from the body shell, in this way the parts are indipendents and they can move freely during the use.

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Old 07-08-2016, 07:54 PM
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http://www.neobuggy.net/wp-content/u...47-150x125.jpg
any ideas how he moved the rear gearbox several more mm's
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:38 AM
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:57 AM
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Default 4.0 build

What is the black concincal small washer used for. That comes with the linkage with the linkage?
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bittydesign
Thank you, exactly we were so tired to see original stock body broken after 1st day on the track that we decided to fix the problem of the front nose by separating it from the body shell, in this way the parts are indipendents and they can move freely during the use.

Great body and graphics.
Do you will make yellow version?

tal

Last edited by Talsys; 07-09-2016 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 07-09-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TIX
This is going no where fast.
People coming on here slamming others because they don't have a problem that others do and acting like they're slamming the brand. This is supposed to be a place people can come for solutions and advise.

I started racing when the 8ight was first released. Back then I used to pop ballends off shocks. I put it down to being a beginner, yet I changed to ofna ball ends and didn't have any come off.
Then the 2.0 came out and 90% of the pre-built kits shock ball ends came off, some were detached straight out of the box. This was due to losi over spinning the shock shafts into the ball ends and threading them. Again I changed to xray ball ends and never had a problem.
Since then I've run a lot more brands and never had a problem with a shock ball end coming off.
Now ive come back to losi 4.0 and first race, first heat, 3rd lap a rear shock end popped off. I changed to mugen ends and haven't had a problem since.

Ive always had this problem with this brand. It doesn't bother me because I know about it. I don't need losi or a brand ambassador to come on here and say it is or isn't a problem. I know it's a problem for me but not for everyone. So I avoid it by using something else.
I mostly have the problem on my truggy because the extra arm flex allows the arm to flex past the droop setting and rip them off. In buggy I only have the problem in the rear where I tend to run full droop.
Can you provide parts numbers for the mugen parts?
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mickey_B
What is the black concincal small washer used for. That comes with the linkage with the linkage?
This one?:


Last edited by Dave H; 07-09-2016 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Merged thread organization, added quote
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:58 PM
  #762  
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Originally Posted by Talsys
Can you provide parts numbers for the mugen parts?
I used the MUGE0545 ends because I still had a packet of them lying in my parts box. But you have to drill the center hole out and trim them down in length to the same as the losi ones.
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by TIX
I used the MUGE0545 ends because I still had a packet of them lying in my parts box. But you have to drill the center hole out and trim them down in length to the same as the losi ones.
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft
Is the losi balls fit the Mugen ends?
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:07 PM
  #764  
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Originally Posted by Talsys
Is the losi balls fit the Mugen ends?
Yes. You have to use the Losi balls.
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:39 AM
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Here ia a pic of the washer.

http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/cm...brary/losi%204

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