TLR 8ight 4.0
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#751
thanks for the help on oils. btw. bitty nailed that body. finally no more broken nose pieces lol. car had a spec 2 in it and now an xzb version 2. both have gobbs of power. makes sence. cant wait to test it.
#752
Does any company offer a 'medium' Ackerman plate?
#753
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I wonder, im running 10k centre diff oil, if i went down to say, 7k, would i get more on power steering? In my head lower centre oil means more power to the front to 'pull' the car through the corner instead of the rear pushing it through. In my head, my heads not very reliable
#754
I wonder, im running 10k centre diff oil, if i went down to say, 7k, would i get more on power steering? In my head lower centre oil means more power to the front to 'pull' the car through the corner instead of the rear pushing it through. In my head, my heads not very reliable
#755
#756
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
http://www.neobuggy.net/wp-content/u...47-150x125.jpg
any ideas how he moved the rear gearbox several more mm's
any ideas how he moved the rear gearbox several more mm's
#757
#759
Tech Apprentice
Thank you, exactly we were so tired to see original stock body broken after 1st day on the track that we decided to fix the problem of the front nose by separating it from the body shell, in this way the parts are indipendents and they can move freely during the use.
Do you will make yellow version?
tal
Last edited by Talsys; 07-09-2016 at 12:53 PM.
#760
Tech Apprentice
This is going no where fast.
People coming on here slamming others because they don't have a problem that others do and acting like they're slamming the brand. This is supposed to be a place people can come for solutions and advise.
I started racing when the 8ight was first released. Back then I used to pop ballends off shocks. I put it down to being a beginner, yet I changed to ofna ball ends and didn't have any come off.
Then the 2.0 came out and 90% of the pre-built kits shock ball ends came off, some were detached straight out of the box. This was due to losi over spinning the shock shafts into the ball ends and threading them. Again I changed to xray ball ends and never had a problem.
Since then I've run a lot more brands and never had a problem with a shock ball end coming off.
Now ive come back to losi 4.0 and first race, first heat, 3rd lap a rear shock end popped off. I changed to mugen ends and haven't had a problem since.
Ive always had this problem with this brand. It doesn't bother me because I know about it. I don't need losi or a brand ambassador to come on here and say it is or isn't a problem. I know it's a problem for me but not for everyone. So I avoid it by using something else.
I mostly have the problem on my truggy because the extra arm flex allows the arm to flex past the droop setting and rip them off. In buggy I only have the problem in the rear where I tend to run full droop.
People coming on here slamming others because they don't have a problem that others do and acting like they're slamming the brand. This is supposed to be a place people can come for solutions and advise.
I started racing when the 8ight was first released. Back then I used to pop ballends off shocks. I put it down to being a beginner, yet I changed to ofna ball ends and didn't have any come off.
Then the 2.0 came out and 90% of the pre-built kits shock ball ends came off, some were detached straight out of the box. This was due to losi over spinning the shock shafts into the ball ends and threading them. Again I changed to xray ball ends and never had a problem.
Since then I've run a lot more brands and never had a problem with a shock ball end coming off.
Now ive come back to losi 4.0 and first race, first heat, 3rd lap a rear shock end popped off. I changed to mugen ends and haven't had a problem since.
Ive always had this problem with this brand. It doesn't bother me because I know about it. I don't need losi or a brand ambassador to come on here and say it is or isn't a problem. I know it's a problem for me but not for everyone. So I avoid it by using something else.
I mostly have the problem on my truggy because the extra arm flex allows the arm to flex past the droop setting and rip them off. In buggy I only have the problem in the rear where I tend to run full droop.
#761
#762
I used the MUGE0545 ends because I still had a packet of them lying in my parts box. But you have to drill the center hole out and trim them down in length to the same as the losi ones.
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft
#763
Tech Apprentice
I used the MUGE0545 ends because I still had a packet of them lying in my parts box. But you have to drill the center hole out and trim them down in length to the same as the losi ones.
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft
The xray XRA358020 also work but you again need to drill the hole out for the thicker shock shaft