cen matrix
06-18-2007, 08:51 AM
#466
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
its fine to adjust it during break in, you probally just need to lean the bottom end in a bit, or your idle might be too low,
for having to blip the throttle to get it to fire, thats normal, and I dont think there is any adjustment that is really going to stop that, its just because its cold and you need to get some heat into it before its going to run properly, the same idea as you have to wait for the engine to warm up before you can tune it, they run totally different when cold vs up to temp,
for the clutch, make sure you didn't lock the diff up when you tightened the bolt holding the clutch on, you have to be able to tighten the bolt in the crank all the way down, and still have a small amount of front to back play in the CB, otherwise the bearings dont spin free and it locks up,
for having to blip the throttle to get it to fire, thats normal, and I dont think there is any adjustment that is really going to stop that, its just because its cold and you need to get some heat into it before its going to run properly, the same idea as you have to wait for the engine to warm up before you can tune it, they run totally different when cold vs up to temp,
for the clutch, make sure you didn't lock the diff up when you tightened the bolt holding the clutch on, you have to be able to tighten the bolt in the crank all the way down, and still have a small amount of front to back play in the CB, otherwise the bearings dont spin free and it locks up,
06-18-2007, 10:41 AM
#468
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
yes, did you try and spin the clutch bell after bolting it down? it should spin really free, if the gap is too small, when all the metals expand the gap can change and that could be why it would lock up after you are using it,
also make sure any shims you are using only touch the inside race of the bearing, if they are touching both the inner and outter races, it wont let the bearing work properly either,
also make sure any shims you are using only touch the inside race of the bearing, if they are touching both the inner and outter races, it wont let the bearing work properly either,
06-18-2007, 10:54 AM
#469
Thanks again.
i recall that I didn't need any shims between the screw that holds the whole clutch assembly on. Its basically setup the same as how the manual says, but there was no side to side play. After letting it cool down however it is still locked up so when I pull the engine I will take a look and see what the issue is.
It did however spin free prior to my run installed.
i recall that I didn't need any shims between the screw that holds the whole clutch assembly on. Its basically setup the same as how the manual says, but there was no side to side play. After letting it cool down however it is still locked up so when I pull the engine I will take a look and see what the issue is.
It did however spin free prior to my run installed.
06-18-2007, 01:04 PM
#470
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
just to clarify, I mean play front to back, along the axis of the crank, when you said side to side I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same thing,
its not necearily whats wrong, but its an easy place to start looking, just loosen the screw off, and see if the clutch free's up, if it still bound up then something else is the problem,
its not necearily whats wrong, but its an easy place to start looking, just loosen the screw off, and see if the clutch free's up, if it still bound up then something else is the problem,
06-18-2007, 09:18 PM
#472
Tech Apprentice
Thanks again.
i recall that I didn't need any shims between the screw that holds the whole clutch assembly on. Its basically setup the same as how the manual says, but there was no side to side play. After letting it cool down however it is still locked up so when I pull the engine I will take a look and see what the issue is.
It did however spin free prior to my run installed.
i recall that I didn't need any shims between the screw that holds the whole clutch assembly on. Its basically setup the same as how the manual says, but there was no side to side play. After letting it cool down however it is still locked up so when I pull the engine I will take a look and see what the issue is.
It did however spin free prior to my run installed.
06-19-2007, 04:20 PM
#474
I just finished the assembly of my Matrix buggy kit.
The build went very smoothly and found the instructions to be very clear.
I did experience a minor problem with one of the front shock bodies. The space at the bottom of the body which holds the 2 o-rings and the white spacer was machined off center, so I was unable to thread on the bottom cap with a shock shaft installed. Luckily I was able to use a body from my spare TR kit.
I also found the shock mounting posts to be very difficult to thread in the screws. I feel a 3mm tap would be a nice thing to have to clean up the threads a little.
As you can tell from the pics I mounted up my spare set of red aluminum shock towers on my buggy.
The build went very smoothly and found the instructions to be very clear.
I did experience a minor problem with one of the front shock bodies. The space at the bottom of the body which holds the 2 o-rings and the white spacer was machined off center, so I was unable to thread on the bottom cap with a shock shaft installed. Luckily I was able to use a body from my spare TR kit.
I also found the shock mounting posts to be very difficult to thread in the screws. I feel a 3mm tap would be a nice thing to have to clean up the threads a little.
As you can tell from the pics I mounted up my spare set of red aluminum shock towers on my buggy.
06-22-2007, 11:23 AM
#478
Tech Master
I have the new CEN cross pins and cases in stock (MX212,MX213). I also have my hardened cross pin convertion kits in stock. The CEN kit for 3 diffs are $30 shipped, mine are $40 shipped and will work with all 3 cases (MX036, MXS39, MX212) and last much longer.