Fuel question

Old 09-25-2015, 02:49 PM
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I am running Odonnell 30% in the white jug, not the castor syn blend in the clear bottle. Has anyone ran into a gumming problem with this fuel? This is my first time using it in a KE21R. No matter how I run the tank and lines clear, and always clean the LSN and fuel inlet, it's a nightmare to get running and cleaned out of the system. After getting the engine started (sometimes with a heat source), there is a clear bog to it and it takes almost 1/2 a tank to get rid of the bog in the engine. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:22 PM
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Do you mean the fuel itself is clogging up the engine? Or is it just running really rich. Different fuels need a different tune so if this is your first bottle you might need to retune. If it's the fuel clogging up the engine, stop using it
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Old 09-25-2015, 09:08 PM
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Get some 30% Byron or Bones Brew. Problem solved
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Old 09-26-2015, 12:41 PM
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Here's the problem.
It is very hard to get primed before starting. There are no air leaks in the system. I also run a little extra fuel line with a Kyosho large fuel filter.
When fuel does get to carb, and priming (with throttle open and looking down the venturi) fuel barely comes out into the carb. Also when finally getting started and trying to idle, you can look down the carb when giving it throttle, and hardly any fuel comes out.
The whole time when you get it running and give it throttle it bogs from lack of fuel midrange.
After every run I run until starved and quits. Then while cleaning I open the slide and clean with alcohol on the lsn needle end and opening of spray inlet.
Any ideas that this may sound like? Am I chasing the wrong problem?
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:58 PM
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Your cleaning could have clogged the fuel inlet. Such cleaning is not necessary. Disassemble HSN assembly and pressure clean.
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:24 AM
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I personally know racers that run that fuel and have for years and swear by it. They have not had problems like you describe. It sounds like you ran that engine with a different fuel. Did you re-tune it when you switched fuels? It sounds like a tune issue to me. Has the engine ran good "ever" on the current fuel? What did you do to the engine when you switched fuels?

Also, on a side note, you should not be running the engine dry when you are done for the day. This removes the oil the fuel leaves behind which keeps the internals lubed/protected while sitting. It took me years to understand this and come to the conclusion that my corrosion problems were from running it dry.
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER View Post
I personally know racers that run that fuel and have for years and swear by it. They have not had problems like you describe. It sounds like you ran that engine with a different fuel. Did you re-tune it when you switched fuels? It sounds like a tune issue to me. Has the engine ran good "ever" on the current fuel? What did you do to the engine when you switched fuels?

Also, on a side note, you should not be running the engine dry when you are done for the day. This removes the oil the fuel leaves behind which keeps the internals lubed/protected while sitting. It took me years to understand this and come to the conclusion that my corrosion problems were from running it dry.
I broke the engine in with this fuel and it only has around 10 tanks through it so far. I use a heat gun when I can to preheat the engine. When at any time when the engine has been running, and a good tune, I have no problems shutting it down and being able to restart again. Never switched fuel.

When I am done running, I run it until it is completely out of fuel. As for storing it after usage, I always use a quality after run to help with moisture and such.

Priming and getting running, and through the bogging seems to be the problem.
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:02 PM
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If you are running hobbico after run oil i would be really worried. The product i bought was a after run oil that i ran into my engine after i had been breaking in my engine and the oil turned into a sticky gummy mess that i had to completely rebiuld and clean my entire engine.......sound familar?? I cant believe a company would sell a oil that to me seems to have a glycal or sugar solution in it. The engine got stuck in the tdc position and a heat gun and big screwdriver had to be used to free it. The oil doesnt seem to react under cool conditions only when hot.
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cbrking805 View Post
If you are running hobbico after run oil i would be really worried. The product i bought was a after run oil that i ran into my engine after i had been breaking in my engine and the oil turned into a sticky gummy mess that i had to completely rebiuld and clean my entire engine.......sound familar?? I cant believe a company would sell a oil that to me seems to have a glycal or sugar solution in it. The engine got stuck in the tdc position and a heat gun and big screwdriver had to be used to free it. The oil doesnt seem to react under cool conditions only when hot.
Trinity used to make 100,000 rpm bearing oil, and this is what I have always used without problems. Two drops in the plug hole and one down the venturi.
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