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Tekno NB48.3 Thread

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Old 11-04-2016, 11:31 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno NB48.3 Thread
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What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 17 Step M-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 14 Step K-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all of our vehicles can be found here.

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Old 06-28-2016, 09:27 PM
  #571  
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Hello alejoal07,

Thank You very much for Your sharing Your thoughts. I really appreciate this.

Could You share Your view for Losi 8.3 compared to 8.4 Centre Rear Drive shaft position? Does this change bring more traction as well??

Cheers..

Originally Posted by alejoal07 View Post
It places the rear center dogbone at more of an angle which makes it have more resistance so the center diff unloads more to the front... It's essentially like going thinner on the center diff fluid
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:44 AM
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Hi, does anyone knows if this rear gearbox also fits the original nb48 too? T
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Old 06-29-2016, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DIME:RC View Post
Hi, does anyone knows if this rear gearbox also fits the original nb48 too? T
It should fit just the same on the original as it does on the .3.
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Old 07-04-2016, 07:35 AM
  #574  
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Someone asked this earlier, but I don't see an answer so I wanted to ask again. I'm assuming you also use the eb48.3 ring diff gear instead of the offset ring gear. Is that correct?
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:09 AM
  #575  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Someone asked this earlier, but I don't see an answer so I wanted to ask again. I'm assuming you also use the eb48.3 ring diff gear instead of the offset ring gear. Is that correct?


Hi,

Yes, this is correct, some people report that using the EB48.3 gearbox (complete with the pinion/diff) improves the handling of the car, haven't tried it yet, so I can't actually comment on that. 😊
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Old 07-05-2016, 02:27 AM
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Hello,

Could someone give me the exact taper angle of the brass cone which goes inside the tekno flywheel ? Mine got damaged and I discovered that I couldn't put any other's brand cone as it wasn't the same angle...

Thank you
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:43 AM
  #577  
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Hello,

Could someone give me the exact taper angle of the brass cone which goes inside the tekno flywheel ? Mine got damaged and I discovered that I couldn't put any other's brand cone as it wasn't the same angle...

Thank you
IIRC, you have to use the collet that comes with the flywheel you have. IE Tekno flywheel and collet, lutrc flywheel and collet. Only thing that is universal are the clutch bells.
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Old 07-06-2016, 03:44 PM
  #578  
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
IIRC, you have to use the collet that comes with the flywheel you have. IE Tekno flywheel and collet, lutrc flywheel and collet. Only thing that is universal are the clutch bells.
^^^ That. This is one of those things you don't want to mix. If you're running the Tekno clutch, go get a Tekno collet not anything that is close or claims to be similar/same angle.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:04 AM
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I saw in a couple pages back someone had asked how the universals change the car and what people thought of them. Well, I bought a set for my NB48.3 and had the chance to run a full practice night last night at my local track. Here is my take on them.

My local track is a medium sized track, that has blown out chuck holes, square edged bumps, low to medium grip, hard packed/loamy/dusty. I installed the universals on my buggy and took to the track. I will say this before I get into my review, you will need 4 additional wheel bearings and you will ditch the larger outer bearing in the wheel hubs. You install the additional wheel bearing into the hubs and run the universals through them that way.

Ok, so warmed up the buggy and plopped it on the track for some laps. At first my buggy was very tippy and would high side. This is because the new drive pins on the universals had to break in and wear themselves into the outdrives. After about 3 tanks the car felt like it finally settled in and I could start pushing the car again. My local track gets rough, and I mean blown out rough. I installed the universals as I read on the Tekno site that they are better for rough conditions and boy were they right. The car skims over the top of the holes and holds a significant amount of more corner speed throughout blown out corners. There is one corner that is a step up and a quick hairpin to a downhill that just gets blown out with huge holes and square edges. The car skims over all this and eats it up like no one's business. When the track starts to break apart and get some dust/loam to it, the back end seems to be much more planted and does not want to break traction. I attribute this to the universals not locking up as much as the CVD's and "bleeding" off some of the power to the rear wheels due to this. I did not change my suspension set-up to accommodate the universals and I really don't think it is needed to be honest. Overall, I would say if you run on rough tracks or low grip tracks that get blown out, do yourself a favor and get the universals. Be aware they will need a couple tanks to wear in, but after that the car handles sooo much better through the rough. Very happy I switched to these and will keep my CVD's as back-ups. Almost forgot, another nicety about the uni's are virtually no maintenance!
Now they just need to come out with Truggy universals!

Hope this helps people decide on whether or not to purchase these.

*Note: I am running the Joe Bornhorst wicked weekend setup in addition to the universals*
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:19 AM
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Nice review, thanks! Did you notice any difference in steering?

Last edited by Ilias; 07-08-2016 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ilias View Post
Nice review, thanks! Did you notice any difference in steering?
Thanks! No Problem!

As far as steering goes, yes I did in fact notice a difference in the steering of the car. The buggy has already a ton of steering that can cause the car to be twitchy and nervous at times. While I was driving the car with the universals I immediately noticed how much smoother the steering was on the car and I attribute this to the fact that the universals do not lock up as much as CVD's would. The buggy feels like it holds a line much better around high speed corners. At my local track there is a high speed corner at the end of the big straightaway in front of the driverstand that goes immediately into the step up/downhill I mentioned above. Before with the CVD's, the buggy seemed really twitchy around the corner and did not want to stay in the line I chose going around the arc of the corner. With the universals, the car seems much more calm and glides around the corner due to less rolling resistance due to the universals. Around our 180 degree turns the car again holds its line much better going around the arc of the corner and exits the corner more calmly and consistently. With the CVD's, the car exiting the corner would break traction and get out of line causing me to either slow down or change my line. Now I can get on the gas much earlier and hold my line till the next corner. I feel I can drive the car much harder and have more confidence that the car is not going to do anything weird or become a handful during a race. Before I felt very nervous about wheeling the car for a 20min main and now I feel more connected and confident in the car. Seems like to me the universals calm down the car to where I can comfortably push the car to the best of my ability for as long as I can. At this point I feel my car is the best it can be and the only reason for the car not doing well is due to my ability.
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:00 PM
  #582  
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Great, thanks for your reply, I agree with your findings. A good idea is to try a combination of Unis/CVDs if you like. I have good results with CVDs in the rear and Unis in front... Would be interesting to see what you and other people here think about that...
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:46 PM
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Universals vs. CVDs.....

Did you see you time go down?
Did you check times to compare? or was it mainly the "feel" of the car improved?
Sometimes lap times don't improve, but if the car is easier to drive, the lap times "stay" .... due to not crashing, minimizing fatigue ect.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Hermit 713 View Post
Universals vs. CVDs.....

Did you see you time go down?
Did you check times to compare? or was it mainly the "feel" of the car improved?
Sometimes lap times don't improve, but if the car is easier to drive, the lap times "stay" .... due to not crashing, minimizing fatigue ect.
I am not sure how much my lap times have increased by because the owner does not bring out the timing system on practice days. I do not feel that switching to universals are going to be the difference between making the A main vs B main. For me and the track conditions I frequently run in, I can push the car much much harder into and out of corners and around the whole track in general. Like I said, the universals made the car feel much less aggressive to where I am not fighting the car to go fast. I can push the car as much as I want and still be in my comfort zone. I will say my corner speed has increased just from visually watching my car go around corners and how much more throttle I can use without upsetting the car. Before I installed the universals, I would have to be very careful and be gentle with my throttle around our blown out and bumping corners. Now I can carry a lot more speed through the arc of the turn and exit the corner on power and not have to worry about the car breaking its line or loosing traction. The universals for me worked great. I would say if you race on dusty, low grip, bumpy, rough tracks mostly, then you should give the universals a go. Really helped the car's performance in my case. I was considering selling the car due to how twitchy and aggressive around the track the car behaved. I was not very confident wheeling the buggy for long mains. Now the car and I are gelling and are flowing around the track really well. My last time out, I received a lot of complements on my car and how it handled the track as well as my driving skills.

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Old 07-12-2016, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by EdRCDallas View Post
I got a setup from team driver Thomas Rivera that made the car handle like a totally different car from stock. I'm at work but I'll message you the setup when I get home.

I added the riser block and I remember he suggested the E buggy rear diff but I didn't use it. Even without the rear diff the car handled. I got third at the pro series in Oklahoma after I made the changes.
Hi EdRCDallas. Would you be able to send me that setup you got from Thomas Rivera for the NB 48.3? I'm trying to settle down the rear. Thanks so much.
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