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Tekno NB48.3 Thread

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Old 11-04-2016, 11:31 AM   -   Wikipost
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What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 17 Step M-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 14 Step K-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all of our vehicles can be found here.

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Old 10-02-2015, 06:49 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
I bought the 91.5mm kyoshos and the fronts are centered in the outdrives but rears are shifted towards the outside of outdrives. Not enough to pop out but if you want them centered I think the 93mm would work great for the rear.
No problems at full droop? Do you have to stiffen up the suspension?
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Old 10-06-2015, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
I've been running a Buku for about a year. ... It fits fine on the .3 but it does require shimming. You will want to pick up some 3x5 shims made by Kyosho.
Is most of the shimming behind the bell or behind the flywheel? Do you still use the Tekno bell? Thanks.
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:09 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Is most of the shimming behind the bell or behind the flywheel? Do you still use the Tekno bell? Thanks.
Most of the shimming is going to be done between the step washer and the nose
of the crank. That's where the 3 x 5 shims come in. I have been running the Buku for 3 years
now and have always used the ProTek metal shielded 5x10 bearings so that's what i continue
to run with a vented serpent bell.

Basically you shim the flywheel just off the front bearing, I think I have one .5mm shim
in there, then you shim the bell so it rides in the proper position over the shoes,
and then you will need to take up any space at the end with the 3x5 shims.

These are NOT plug and play clutches. There are pretty specific guidelines you need to follow.
If you set them up properly and treat them with respect they will last longer(5-6 gallons) and
feel better than any buggy clutch out there. If you don't they will be nothing but problems and you will be better off
with the factory alum unit.

Best place to buy one is Houston's Engine Service.

If you get one from Monty it will come adjusted and ready to go.
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Most of the shimming is going to be done between the step washer and the nose
of the crank. That's where the 3 x 5 shims come in. I have been running the Buku for 3 years
now and have always used the ProTek metal shielded 5x10 bearings so that's what i continue
to run with a vented serpent bell.

Basically you shim the flywheel just off the front bearing, I think I have one .5mm shim
in there, then you shim the bell so it rides in the proper position over the shoes,
and then you will need to take up any space at the end with the 3x5 shims.

These are NOT plug and play clutches. There are pretty specific guidelines you need to follow.
If you set them up properly and treat them with respect they will last longer(5-6 gallons) and
feel better than any buggy clutch out there. If you don't they will be nothing but problems and you will be better off
with the factory alum unit.

Best place to buy one is Houston's Engine Service.

If you get one from Monty it will come adjusted and ready to go.
Thanks.
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Old 10-12-2015, 06:48 AM
  #155  
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Default Buku Clutch

One more question about the Buku clutch. I know it was said it's not plug-n-play, but once you get it set, do you have to tune it much after that? I can usually get on my home track by myself and hear my motor. If I go to another meet, that almost becomes impossible.
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JsK View Post
Most of the shimming is going to be done between the step washer and the nose
of the crank. That's where the 3 x 5 shims come in. I have been running the Buku for 3 years
now and have always used the ProTek metal shielded 5x10 bearings so that's what i continue
to run with a vented serpent bell.

Basically you shim the flywheel just off the front bearing, I think I have one .5mm shim
in there, then you shim the bell so it rides in the proper position over the shoes,
and then you will need to take up any space at the end with the 3x5 shims.

These are NOT plug and play clutches. There are pretty specific guidelines you need to follow.
If you set them up properly and treat them with respect they will last longer(5-6 gallons) and
feel better than any buggy clutch out there. If you don't they will be nothing but problems and you will be better off
with the factory alum unit.


Best place to buy one is Houston's Engine Service.

If you get one from Monty it will come adjusted and ready to go.
This needs to be repeated. The BUKU is an amazing clutch. I love how quick it can lock, and how progressive it can be.

However, it's been a steep learning experience, but well worth it.
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Old 10-12-2015, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
One more question about the Buku clutch. I know it was said it's not plug-n-play, but once you get it set, do you have to tune it much after that? I can usually get on my home track by myself and hear my motor. If I go to another meet, that almost becomes impossible.
Yes. Once it's set, you pretty much won't touch it. After a few gallons, you may need to soften the tension slightly on the springs since the pads have to move farther. I know some guys are always making little changes either softer or harder based on the traction level.
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:54 AM
  #158  
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Default Steering stops

Hello Everyone,

Just a heads up regarding the steering stops:

"The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB/SCT and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this to be a non-factor.

Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
  • Rear end washes out when landing jumps
  • Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
  • Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
  • Bump handling is unpredictable
  • Initial steering is extremely twitchy

And other issues to be sure

Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.

Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw). You won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in."

I just copy and pasted the info from a Facebook post so everyone here is aware of this. Have fun!
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:12 AM
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This sounds great and absolutely makes sense!
Thanks Tekno for beeing the only one on planet earth to figure out that an 1/8 off-road buggy has to have mechanical steering limiter.
Something i wish for since almost ages!
Thanks Ilias for sharing.
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by gt racing View Post
This sounds great and absolutely makes sense!
Thanks Tekno for beeing the only one on planet earth to figure out that an 1/8 off-road buggy has to have mechanical steering limiter.
Something i wish for since almost ages!
Thanks Ilias for sharing.
Thanks for the support!
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ilias View Post
Thanks for the support!
I know this is the NB page, but does this also hold true for the NT48.3? Should I use 4 shims on each steering stop as well?
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I know this is the NB page, but does this also hold true for the NT48.3? Should I use 4 shims on each steering stop as well?
Hi,

No problem. This only applies for our EB/NB/SCT cars.

Regards
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I know this is the NB page, but does this also hold true for the NT48.3? Should I use 4 shims on each steering stop as well?
I would use 1-2 shims on the Truggy at least, this is actually the setting we recommend for most track conditions.
-Thomas
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:12 AM
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Ilias, completely understand what you are saying about leverage. Would a longer servo horn help the situation?
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Retired09 View Post
Ilias, completely understand what you are saying about leverage. Would a longer servo horn help the situation?
A longer servo horn actually makes it worse. Run a shorter servo horn. For example, on the servo horns with two mounting holes, use the inside (shorter) hole. This will smooth out the steering and increase servo durability.
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