Idle Gap - I need help how to look at it!
#1
Idle Gap - I need help how to look at it!
I need help with the idle gap. I've always been told to do a .5mm to 1mm gap. When you look at the idle gap through the carburetor, are you suppose to look at it straight down? The reason I ask is because let's say you do a 1mm gap. If you look into the carb at an angle, that 1mm gap is actually bigger. How are you guys looking into the carb? Straight down or at an angle. Thanks!
Kyosho KE21 and KE25 engines.
Kyosho KE21 and KE25 engines.
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
I need help with the idle gap. I've always been told to do a .5mm to 1mm gap. When you look at the idle gap through the carburetor, are you suppose to look at it straight down? The reason I ask is because let's say you do a 1mm gap. If you look into the carb at an angle, that 1mm gap is actually bigger. How are you guys looking into the carb? Straight down or at an angle. Thanks!
Kyosho KE21 and KE25 engines.
Kyosho KE21 and KE25 engines.
#3
Thanks!
#5
#9
Ok now I get it! I think I was setting my Gap wrong the whole time LOL. I think thats how I managed to blow my previous KE25. I had gap set to 1mm with the restrictor on it. It was hard to hold a tune and I think my LSN was a bit too rich.
Once the Idle is set to .8mm to 1mm, next step is to tune the LSN correct? And when tuning the LSN, do you also need to adjust the idle again to keep the idling down?
I am about to do another engine break-in for a KE25. To my understanding... for the first 5 tanks, I should leave the A, B, and C needles at factory correct?
My question though is once the engine has been broken in, how do I adjust the HSN and LSN? Meaning, once the engine is broken in, do I completely turn the HSN clockwise, then do 2 full turns counter clockwise and tune from there? Same concept with LSN...fully close the screw then do 2 full turns open and start to tune from there? The idle gap, I'm assuming I just need to set it at .8mm to 1mm like normal.
Thanks guys for the help! I want to get this right this time. I've gone through about 8 engines over the last 6 months. I keep blowing them and I think its because I have my idle gap and LSN all mucked up! What is the general rule as far as the LSN -5-6 seconds for the pinch test? Where on the fuel line do I do the actual pinch because I know the closer to the gas tank you go, the more time it will take to stall the engine. Thanks again.
Once the Idle is set to .8mm to 1mm, next step is to tune the LSN correct? And when tuning the LSN, do you also need to adjust the idle again to keep the idling down?
I am about to do another engine break-in for a KE25. To my understanding... for the first 5 tanks, I should leave the A, B, and C needles at factory correct?
My question though is once the engine has been broken in, how do I adjust the HSN and LSN? Meaning, once the engine is broken in, do I completely turn the HSN clockwise, then do 2 full turns counter clockwise and tune from there? Same concept with LSN...fully close the screw then do 2 full turns open and start to tune from there? The idle gap, I'm assuming I just need to set it at .8mm to 1mm like normal.
Thanks guys for the help! I want to get this right this time. I've gone through about 8 engines over the last 6 months. I keep blowing them and I think its because I have my idle gap and LSN all mucked up! What is the general rule as far as the LSN -5-6 seconds for the pinch test? Where on the fuel line do I do the actual pinch because I know the closer to the gas tank you go, the more time it will take to stall the engine. Thanks again.
#12
Ok now I get it! I think I was setting my Gap wrong the whole time LOL. I think thats how I managed to blow my previous KE25. I had gap set to 1mm with the restrictor on it. It was hard to hold a tune and I think my LSN was a bit too rich.
Once the Idle is set to .8mm to 1mm, next step is to tune the LSN correct? And when tuning the LSN, do you also need to adjust the idle again to keep the idling down?
I am about to do another engine break-in for a KE25. To my understanding... for the first 5 tanks, I should leave the A, B, and C needles at factory correct?
My question though is once the engine has been broken in, how do I adjust the HSN and LSN? Meaning, once the engine is broken in, do I completely turn the HSN clockwise, then do 2 full turns counter clockwise and tune from there? Same concept with LSN...fully close the screw then do 2 full turns open and start to tune from there? The idle gap, I'm assuming I just need to set it at .8mm to 1mm like normal.
Thanks guys for the help! I want to get this right this time. I've gone through about 8 engines over the last 6 months. I keep blowing them and I think its because I have my idle gap and LSN all mucked up! What is the general rule as far as the LSN -5-6 seconds for the pinch test? Where on the fuel line do I do the actual pinch because I know the closer to the gas tank you go, the more time it will take to stall the engine. Thanks again.
Once the Idle is set to .8mm to 1mm, next step is to tune the LSN correct? And when tuning the LSN, do you also need to adjust the idle again to keep the idling down?
I am about to do another engine break-in for a KE25. To my understanding... for the first 5 tanks, I should leave the A, B, and C needles at factory correct?
My question though is once the engine has been broken in, how do I adjust the HSN and LSN? Meaning, once the engine is broken in, do I completely turn the HSN clockwise, then do 2 full turns counter clockwise and tune from there? Same concept with LSN...fully close the screw then do 2 full turns open and start to tune from there? The idle gap, I'm assuming I just need to set it at .8mm to 1mm like normal.
Thanks guys for the help! I want to get this right this time. I've gone through about 8 engines over the last 6 months. I keep blowing them and I think its because I have my idle gap and LSN all mucked up! What is the general rule as far as the LSN -5-6 seconds for the pinch test? Where on the fuel line do I do the actual pinch because I know the closer to the gas tank you go, the more time it will take to stall the engine. Thanks again.
#13
easy way to set 0.5mm gap :
Take a piece of twisted pair used for computer networks, split it, pick one of the wires, remove isolation. According to specs copper wire itself should be 0.4-0.6mm, usually it is exactly 0.5mm, and it's safe to recheck with calipers.
Take a piece of twisted pair used for computer networks, split it, pick one of the wires, remove isolation. According to specs copper wire itself should be 0.4-0.6mm, usually it is exactly 0.5mm, and it's safe to recheck with calipers.