fizzy

iTrader: (15)

I'm looking to buy a new mill for my buggy and I'm leaning towards a Reds I'm just wondering if there is a very noticeable difference in the r5r and r5t

PaulNZ

The way I have had it explained to me is the R5R is suited to buggy and Truggy, the R5T is more suited to truggy and the R7 Evoke is more suited to Buggy.

Happy to be corrected though.

thommi

There is diference. The R5R is the most powerful of all the 3 REDS engines and therefore very well suited for truggy, but a very good, less expensive option for a buggy too. The R5T has lots of power, but is smoother and more economic. The R7 is designed with buggies in mind, very smooth, very economic, will work in Truggies, but has much less punch than the R5R. I am using the R7 in my buggy, but on tracks with lots of uphill I might use the R5R, which I am using as well as one of my practice engines.

DaRaceMasta

i have the R5T V2 and its a great engine for buggy.. as was said.. it has more than enough power and smooth controlable power.. my track is flat with bank transfers and doubles in the 2nd straight etc.. and its effortless... really like the feel esp with the HIPEX 2104 with medium length manifold..

top end is great as well as giving a smooth transition before that.. doesnt balloon the tires much.. thats where a hole punch for tires comes in hand.. which works great.. for even grip..

HIPEX makes the pipes for REDS so either brand is just right for reds..

fizzy

iTrader: (15)

Thanks to all that clears things up a bit, i knew hipex made the reds pipes

thommi

If you already like the R5T, you should try the R7 once... the engine is incredibly smooth, and with the new carburator, tuning is an absolute no-brainer. The new carburator increased top end power, and I feel that engine does react quicker to throttle inputs too.

RevoUsa

Picked up a R5R .21 (old carb ) and I am having a He$$ of time getting in the ballpark on needle settings.

Break in was fine but now sitting on about 8 tanks and starting to lean out and I can not keep it running.

Losi 3.0
VP fuel 30%
Od 97t plugs

Gap set around .8-.9 for idle
Both needles about flush right now

During 50% throttle putting on the brakes it dies - open the idle gap repeat - dies - lean out bottom - same pass - it dies - - lean out bottom can't get idle gap any lower etc. go back to idle gap set to .8 and richen low end same pass and it dies again

either way on low end FAt or lean it dies - change plugs - still dies
seems to be a great engine - just would like some starting points - normally run Nova P5's etc. etc.

Anyone out there have base settings for me to work with ?

thommi

Use either P3 or P4 for plugs. LSN flush is usually about right. HSN is usually a bit in. What venturi are you using? Please check on clutch / bearings as the engine dies when you apply bakes. Check linkage too, as you changed engine, it might be that your throttle linkage needs to be reajusted. If you are tuning the engine with throttle just a bit open, the engine will die as soon as you apply brakes. REDS engines are dificult to flame out as long as you keep the LSN rich enough.

am

Seems you actually have a clutch problem. Double check your clutch so you do not have broken clutchspring :-)

I use the Picco5 offroad plug. That is the best plug for teh REDS/Picco engines i think. The Picco made enignes likes a top end that many think are lean, and a bottom end that is a tad bit on the rich end.

Lance from Tritonrc has written a good guide for the Picco based engines. Check this out, should get you in the ballpark: http://tritonrc.com/triton%20tuning%20guide.htm

RevoUsa

Thanks for the reply

Lsn flush
Hsn 1/2 to 1/4 in ?

Venturi is the one that came with the engine silver in color seems to be about a 7mm ?

Throttle links checked - end points checked etc. !

Pulled my werks 4 shoe clutch off and went back to losi 4 shoe and still the same - fly wheel / springs / shoes all new / bearings /

Hard to flame out ? Of course I will keep trying !

thommi

did you make 100% sure that when the throttle is in neutral position, the carburator is completely closed? please make as well sure that all connections are ok (fuel lines etc). what does the engine do when you rev it and the just go back into neutral, without applying brakes? how low is your idle? just increase it a bit (1/8).

thommi

did you solve the issue?

RevoUsa

Closed on neutral - only dies On throttle then off when braking
Fuel lines replaced just because it was a new engine
The engine idles fantastic on and off the box
Even giving it 50% throttle on the box sounds great and goes back to a good idle.

I will give it another try when off work again and have time to play. Seems it's going to want to be at a high idle to the balls drop hehe!

RevoUsa

Changed from a OD97t plug to an O.S. plug and WaLaa it's fixed !

All clutch parts where brand new - even noticed from original plug the engine came with after running there was fuel on top of the head next to the plug - changed plug to the odonnel 97t plug and it started the flam outs - pulled that plug out and it seems it was seated pretty low even to the point it looked as though some partial shavings came out on the threads - after owning so many NOVA motors this was a first - always been super careful not to cross threads going in.

Tore the engine down - flushed it out and installed the O.s. plug - fired it back up to tune yesterday and this thing rips !

Don't really know what plug was installed but most deff the OD 97t plug is not one to use with this engine.

ASA

I have found that the OD plugs have a larger surface area around the sealing taper and a very very slight difference in the taper angle(maybe only half a degree) compared to OS type plugs, but this seem to make the plug sit further up in the combustion chamber thus making them a mongrel to tune and have idle probs! I used to run OD's in my alphas but euro stuff doesnt seem to like them, hope this helps