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James Racing Tire Prep/Gluing Tips

1. Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner or Alcohol to clean bead of tire.
2. Dremel wheel bead. This gives it a good bonding surface. Clean after dremel with above cleaners mentioned above.
3. Use loctite professional glue.
4. Enjoy!

What James Racing Tires are compared to in other brands:

PL suppressor - Y-Zip
PL lockdown - Revenger
PL fugetive - Defenders
PL blockade - Y-Zip or Revenger
PL switchblade - Wasper

Dot Evo works on wet or dusty tracks and every track condition.
Wasper is like a Hole Shot/Buck Shot.
I-Blocks are amazing on dusty blue grooves.
X-Cross is like a Bow Tie.

The rubber wears like iron and the SS compound is close to a M3 PL and if sauced with PB Blaster, feels like a M4. The 5 rib inserts are like Dirt Techs so they don't break down fast like PL foams do.

"Compound Chart"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoking1230
So is there a chart for which compound to go with in what weather/conditions?

I live in Texas and currently in the 70’s-80’s. Lately, occasional 50’s-60’s. And of course the 90’s in the summer and then some.
Thanks.
/Quote

There is no chart, but traction level is more important than temps. Use SS for low grip, Soft for high grip, and Medium for extreme/abrasive grip levels.

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Old 01-29-2018, 11:05 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by VPProUSA
They are supposed to but they forgot, so you need to punch 2 holes in them with a leather hole punch or 6MIK multi tool.
How do you do that when it is glued already?
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Old 01-29-2018, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by lilstewie
How do you do that when it is glued already?
Just in case you didn't see my comment which ninja'd yours:
James Racing Tires
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Old 01-29-2018, 12:15 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by lilstewie
How do you do that when it is glued already?
Same way as always, it is just easier after the tire is mounted.


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Last edited by VPProUSA; 11-20-2023 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 01-29-2018, 12:27 PM
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That's one helluva punch!
My leather punch can't expand that far out
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Old 01-29-2018, 12:43 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
That's one helluva punch!
My leather punch can't expand that far out
You just need to push down on the rubber to use a leather hole punch so it goes on. But the 6mik tool is the bomb.


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Old 01-29-2018, 12:43 PM
  #186  
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Do you drill the rim too? or just the rubber?
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:34 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
So my tires just arrived today, the carcass is significantly different between each design where the Defenders offer more support (and weigh about 5g more per tire) suggesting they might not have as much tendency to balloon under hard acceleration (if I had to guess). It will be interesting to see how each wear when compared to my trusty DOT EVO tires... all are SOFT compound... maybe when temps drop this winter I might try SUPER SOFT but we're still in the high 80's to low 90's out here in Texas.

WASPER:


DEFENDER:

some more comparison with the X-Cross:



and I-Block tires:

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Old 01-30-2018, 12:34 AM
  #188  
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Hello VPProUSA,

I would say that it would be better if You punch the holes before You mount it to the rims.

If You punch the hole like You did on the picture, the insert will most probably cut as well. The hole on the insert might prematurely break the insert.

Just my opinion..

Cheers..

Originally Posted by VPProUSA
Same way as always, it is just easier after the tire is mounted.


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Old 01-30-2018, 03:30 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by stanleyw808
Hello VPProUSA,

I would say that it would be better if You punch the holes before You mount it to the rims.

If You punch the hole like You did on the picture, the insert will most probably cut as well. The hole on the insert might prematurely break the insert.

Just my opinion..

Cheers..
Yes it puts a hole in the inserts but it does not affect the closed cell inserts at all. I have done it for years with no problems. In fact on 1/10 tires I purposely put 4 holes in the inserts and put 2 holes in the rims so the air can escape through the insert and out the wheel. I do not put holes in the rubber because we use tire conditioners here and it can wreck the inserts, so no hole in the rubber is better. You can also put a bunch of holes in the inserts to make them feel softer.


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Old 01-30-2018, 03:32 AM
  #190  
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vlAf2lObjI
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by VPProUSA
I've seen pretty much every variation of these tips by local pros in my area for big races, for green layouts that haven't grooved up and tend to be more slick, these tips can certainly help... I've been happy with gluing the foams to the front wheels and punching holes (3 wide along each rib) on the rear, it's not a drastic change but does seem to help in a very subtle way, you just need to mark the wheels so you don't mix them up later.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:34 AM
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Just a quick shout out for James Waspers (Soft) which was the tire to have this weekend at a big race in my area. I was the only guy in the 40+ division running these tires and I think they helped give me a slight advantage to get TQ and the Win in both double mains

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Old 06-05-2018, 01:41 AM
  #193  
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Is James Racing still going?

Would like to continue using them but Australian Distributor is no longer bringing them in and Dialed RC Hobbies doesn't ship to Australia
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Old 06-05-2018, 06:15 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by TrickyMick
Is James Racing still going?

Would like to continue using them but Australian Distributor is no longer bringing them in and Dialed RC Hobbies doesn't ship to Australia
James Racing is going better then ever. 2 new tires coming soon. They have new buggy wheels and inserts, and new truggy inserts.
You can order them on ebay and have it them shipped worldwide by the Ebay shipping center.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odk...james&_sacat=0
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:47 PM
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Thanks for that , but with $45 shipping for a set of 4 , No Thanks
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